South American I’d go anywhere
South American somebody take me there
I wanna be, I wanna be, going back
Brian Wilson/Jimmy Buffet-South American 1998
We are back, and working our way through culture and climate shock.
The mercury hit 114 yesterday. We’re spending a lot of time in the pool. Our house and puppy-Cody were in fine shape thanks to our younger son, Jacobo, who was house sitting.
We flew out of Guayaquil close to midnight after spending nearly three weeks in Quito, the Oriente (jungle), and the Galapagos Islands.
Seldom have we thought as much, existed as vividly, learned and experienced as much, and seldom have we been so much ourselves, as in this adventure.
Highlights of this trip include:
-Staying at Los Alpes in Quito. A small family owned hotel loaded with old world charm. Spending several days exploring Ecuador’s colonial capital city. Shopping at the Mercado & touring the Casa de Culture Museo, impressed by the quantity and quality of the pre Colombian pieces.
-Soaking in the volcanic hot springs at Papallacta in the Andes.
-Nine day stay in the Amazonian Runa community of Venecia on the banks of the Napo River, tributary to the Amazon River. Backpacking into the rainforest, trekking through waist deep water. Taking a couple of canoe trips into Misahaulli. Dining on grubs and other exotic Amazonian foods that come from the Amazonian hunting and gathering traditions. Observing and taking part in a Quichua healing ceremony.
-Cruising to six of the Galapagos Islands on the First Class Yacht, Eden.
Observing, close up, the incredible variety of wildlife that included marine iguanas, giant tortoises, sea turtles, whales, dolphins, penguins, sea lions, blue footed boobys, owls and many more bird species.
-Snorkeling with the sea lions, turtles and a few sharks. (Gerry)
On the first part of the Journey………..
We were met at the Quito airport by Dr.Tod Swanson, ASU professor of Religious Studies and Director of the Latin American Studies Program. Tod
was raised by missionary parents in the jungle. His knowledge of Ecuador and the rainforest is first hand.
Quito sits in a valley at 10,000 feet. The temperature is similar to San Francisco. It was in the 60s during the day and low fifties at night.
On our first full day we toured “old town” with the students. Our tour included the San Francisco Cathedral and the governor’s house built in the 16th century. We enjoyed viewing 16th century art at the monastery and lunched at Cueva de Oso. That evening we dined at an Italian restaurant that provided a magnificent view of Quito.
The following day we took a bus up through the Andes, often travelling at 14,000 feet.. We stopped for a swim in the hot springs at Papallacta and arrived at Cotacochi after dark. Cotacochi was an eco-resort built by a German group but since turned over to the Quichuan Napo Community. We were given a very nice casita overlooking the Napa River. Gerry had the luxury of a hot shower. El Lobo bathed in the river in order to live as closely as possible to the way the indigenous Quichua communities live.
I was looking at all the life……
I spent my days studying Spanish, which is a secondary language to the community, exploring, and studying tropical plant diversity. Because Spanish is a secondary language, it is spoken slower and therefore easier for a student to practice.
We listened to Quichua residents’ ideas of plant relationships and their uses for food, medicines and building materials. When Tod was a young boy and bitten by a Bushmaster (poisonous snake) he was treated by a Quichuan Shaman with a plant remedy.
There were plants and birds………
Brilliantly colored butterflies and birds fluttered everywhere. Long columns of leaf cutting ants carried their cargo back to the colony.
In the evenings we sat on our deck which overlooked the river and sipped Chilean wine. We ate both traditional Quichan foods and every day Ecuadorian fare. We particularly enjoyed the fried bananas, pineapple, and potato soup, for which popcorn served as a garnish.
On a couple of trips to the river town of Misahaulli, the group enjoyed cervezas at Alex’s bar. Alex was educated at the U of Michigan and after a successful international career in structural engineering he returned home. He was real friendly and at one point smiled and said “You guys have Boooosh!”
Monkeys seemed to have taken over the town, and several stole items left unprotected, which were stored up in trees. At one point a pair of sunglasses was thrown down by one of the thieves, I guess they didn’t fit.
Every day was full and fun. The students were all bright and energetic, a joy to be around. Our Quichuan hosts were delightful.
Gerry was very impressed with the quality of the program and the dedication of Tod and his staff.
Abel and Tito, a couple of local boys, heard that it was our our anniversary and treated us and the group to a special musical performance. They ended each song with “Mas Vino!”
The air was full of sound…………
Gerry was remarkable on our overnight to the selva.(jungle) Seven months after hip replacement she was wading through waist deep water and climbing up difficult muddy slopes. It rained heavily through most of the night, but before the rain started the sounds of the jungle were amazing.
During a Quechuan healing ceremony in which a shaman ingested ayahuasca (a hallucinogenic, boiled from a rainforest vine), he talked about the wild pigs that have disappeared from the rainforest and gone to the inside of the mountains. He talked about the belief that the mountains will be opened one day and the pigs will return. Interestingly, this belief is also shared by the indigenous tribes in the Midwest, but instead of pigs they believe that the Buffalo will emerge from the bowels of the mountains and return.
Not far from Cotacochi, in May of this year, two tribes went to battle and 26 people were speared to death. One of the tribes was not even known to be in existence. The Ecuadorian government considered intervention but did not move troops into the area. In sharp contrast, just across the road from us the rain forest was being cut for a pipeline to the oil fields.
Our real adventure of the trip was when Gerry and I left the group and took a bus from Tena to Quito. It was running late and we just barely got aboard as it wasted no time at the estacion. The driver hurtled with break neck speed into the Andes. At one point a pickup truck cut in front of us to slow down the bus and a guy jumped out of the pickup and jumped on to the bus. I placed our full packs around Gerry to cushion potential impact. Snacking on trail mix was a mistake as it jarred down the wrong pipe and I spent several minutes choking.
El autobus made numerous stops along the way picking up campensinos with machetes. At one point a machete went sailing down the aisle of the bus and flew out the door. Road construction slowed us down as the bus got stuck in mud. The innovative crew hooked up a towing device and a caterpillar pulled us out. If you were a male you were not allowed to use the bano on board, it was only for women and the driver controlled the llave (key). If you had to go, you jumped off when he stopped to pick up a fare. You had to be quick and jump back on before he left without you.
The Latin music from the radio was deafening. However, as we were “cruising” at 14,000 feet, we were tranquilized by the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen and……. like a message sent from God, the haunting melody “Dust in the Wind’ came on the bus radio. We both got chills.
We spent the next two days shopping and sight seeing in Quito. We brought back over 50 little tesoros (treasures) Everything is muy borrato. (cheap)
We flew to Guayaquil and then to the island of Baltra in the Galapagos. We were met here, by our guide, Rafael, who turned out to be a great guy as well as a very informed naturalist.
We took a bus to the good ship Eden and immediately launched for one of the islands. We enjoyed great chemistry with the 12 other passengers who hailed from 4 different continents.
The desert had turned to sea………
Each night we would cruise to a different desert island and during the day observe the incredible diversity of wild life. We would hike and observe and snorkel. Some would dive.
The ocean is a desert with life underground and a perfect disguise above…….
Gerry bonded with several sea lions that would swim with her, playfully darting over and under her. What a feeling!
On her birthday the cook made her a special cake and we all celebrated that evening.
On our last night Rafael took us to his home to meet his family. Coincidentally, he had spent time at ASU, several years ago, in the intensive English Language and Cultural Program.
I hope that everyone on this mailing list has the opportunity to see the rainforest and the Galapagos at some time and understand how important the rainforest is to mankind and the other species that share Mother Earth.
With a simple click, you can save an area of rainforest land -- every day, for free. Just visit http://www.therainforestsite.com/home and click on the "Save Our Rainforests" button. That's it!
I wanna be, I wanna be, going back
7/13/2003
6/14/2003
Desolation Wilderness
Subject: Desolation Wilderness & Old Indian tricks Desolation Wilderness California -Loon Lake, Pleasant Lake, Lake Winfred,Buck Island Lake, Rockbound Lake, Fox Lake, Rubicon Reservoir, HorseshoeLake, Lake Zitella, 4Qs Lakes. 30 miles-3 days-Rating 9.0Hope all had a nice Labor Day weekend-Returning to work, and watching someof my stocks tumble make me wonder why I left the Wilderness.I left the insanity of the LA airport on Friday afternoon and arrived inOakland after just an hour's delay on Southwest. While waiting and watchingthe mob scene, America West announced the cancellation of the flight that Inormally take to Phoenix on Friday afternoon. This flight has now been canceled three weeks in a row. The seduction of liberal AW miles and firstclass travel continues to cloud my judgment in the selection of carriers.My good friend and hiking partner Hannu, was waiting for me at the airport.Hannu is a world class orienteer and he had a plan to avoid to glut ofLaborDay traffic on I80 to Sacramento. He had mapped out a backroad routethroughthe Sacramento River Delta. In Antioch we enjoyed a great Pizza and severalSierra Nevada's to help us find the way down the Delta. The route was quiteconfusing and difficult to follow in the dark, but the great one pulled usthrough and we arrived at James Cabanas's home in Roseville at 10:30 P.M.James has cold Coronas waiting for us to further help us dehydrate goinginto the mountains. We spent the evening at James's and then headed up 50toLoon Lake where we would access the Desolation Wilderness from the West.There are nine points of access to the Wilderness. The Eastern points ofaccess are extremely congested due to their proximity to Tahoe.I have entered the Wilderness from seven locations, but had not tried theLoon Lake trailhead. This is my personal favorite for backpacking. Over thepast 11 years I have trekked to 60 of the 100+ Alpine Lakes in thisWilderness.The weather report promised rain on Saturday, partially clearing Sunday andMonday. It was raining at the trailhead when we arrived and we talked to avery cold guy whom had just gotten out of the Wilderness. He and hisequipment were totally soaked. "You have to be crazy to go in there, it ismiserable- we woke to four inches of snow at Rubicon." "The stream andrivercrossings are treacherous; I wouldn't try it if I were you." At this point,Hannu badly wanted to go to a nearby lodge for beer and burgers to wait outthe storm. When he heard "lets go!" he let go with a long string of cursesin the Fin tongue, but eventually put on his pack and lead the way.We met a couple of groups of three on the trail, soaked and miserable;drivenout by the weather. This did not cheer Hannu up, but his need to navigateandsteer kept him moving toward our destinations. The fog and clouds were solowthat we could not see 10 ft. in front of us.The good news turned out to be that we did not see anyone for three days!This was truly amazing as the Desolation Wilderness normally would be usedtocapacity on Labor Day.About seven miles in we came to one of the crossings that we had beenwarnedabout. A 50 ft. wide thundering swollen stream blocked passage to Rubiconreservoir.It looked about two feet deep and the force and water temperature was ofconcern.We elected to take off our boots and socks rather than thoroughly soakthem.It was at this point that Hannu elected to "toss" one of his boots acrossthestream over El Lobo's objection. Hannu is a world class orienteer but neverpitched for the Yankees nor attended an outdoors survivor school. His throwwas misguided but made it across-barely. "Great Hannu, now what if we don'tmake it across" -Hannu then decided to improve upon his last pitch andthrewhis second boot into the rushing water!James and I watched in horror (and glee) as the boot barely caught anobjectclose to the bank while traveling downstream. Hannu forgot about his coldfeet and barefooted across to rescue the boot, almost falling and goingdownstream.James and El Lobo made it across stream without incident, aided by Tevasandwalking sticks.On the other side, El Lobo tried to teach Hannu an old Indian trick -to dryyour feet with a bandana, but Hannu did not want to be taught old Indiantricks. In fact, throughout the trip, Hannu refused El Lobo's wisdomregarding "Old Indian Tricks."Perhaps he had learned that some of these "Old Indian tricks" were passedonfrom Steve Yahner, or he felt that these were only TRICKS used by El Lobotoobtain Hannu's stash of candy and treats?The wet backpacker at the trailhead had told us about a great camping spotatRubicon and we easily found it in an area that offered us some protectionfrom the elements.We experienced another scare that night, when about 2:00 A.M. we heard twoblood curdling screams coming from Hannu's teepee. We wondered if Hannu hadbeen dragged off by a bear, but were too cold to check if he was stillalive.The next morning we found an alive Hannu and when we inquired about thescreams he sheepishly mumbled something about BIGFOOT?The next day we elected to go cross country to some of the natural lakes inthe higher altitude. Rubicon reservoir is part of the Sacramento watersupplysystem. Where's the Monkey Wrench Gang when you need em?Hannu took us on a great Overland route to Horseshoe Lake and Lake Zitella.He did a great job and we would not have been able to find them withouthim.The hike was a bit treacherous as streaming water was everywhere on thegranite that we had to climb. Their were beautiful waterfalls and weclimbedto the altitude where the snow had stuck.We had numerous river and stream crossings on the way back that werenegotiated without incident. Hannu kept his boots on.Cold winds would periodically chill us to the bone. They sounded like a jetsoaring through the Wilderness.The next day the weather started to clear and we were able to get gorgeousviews of the lakes on our way out.We showered at James's and wolfed down Pizza and Fosters at a localestablishment before heading back to the bay area. Hannu again took theDeltabackroads and did an excellent job getting me there in time for my plane.Ifwe would have taken I80 we wouldn't have made it.Thanks to James for his hospitality.James is a solid, skilled outdoorsman and excellent with the camera. Asusual, he did not receive any demerits on the trip. He put together thetrip,provisioned it andprovided a calming influence to the group.This turned out to be a fantastic weekend. Great company and the best ofWilderness. I rated this a 9.0. It would have received a 9.9 if the weatherwas a little warmer and all lakes remained natural.I arrived back at Marina Del Rey in time to clean up my gear and enjoy thehottub.Gerry spent a nice weekend visiting her family and taking in a game at PACBell Stadium in San Francisco. Her comments on the game and stadium. "Itwasthe best!" I like it when Gerry is happy!Next weekend in Scottsdale preparing for the Mother of all adventures-GrandCanyon Colorado River trip.
5/13/2003
Rolling Stones
“Time is on my side, yes it is”
The “Forty Licks” tour stop in Phoenix was one of the mothers of all concerts that I have attended (#422) and Mother’s Little Helpers were focused and near perfect. Rolling Stones concerts have been called the greatest show on earth and I agree. Clearly, Mick Jagger is the best front man that the business has seen, and many consider the Stones the greatest Rock and Roll Band of all time. Others would argue that Led Zeppelin deserves that honor but my vote goes to the Stones.
The British group was formed when I was a sophomore in high school—and getting no satisfaction. Two years later “ I Can’t Get No Satisfaction” became the Stones’ first number one hit and an anthem for all young frustrated guys.
The Rolling Stones, who were heavily influenced by American rhythm and blues, took their name from a Muddy Waters’ song. The guys were the original “bad boys” of Rock and Roll.
The Rolling Stones were woven into the fabric of my misspent youth. There are so many memories, such as returning from a draft physical in Oakland on a bus filled with Reno boys. Ralph Gabrazano had his portable radio cranked up to “Paint it Black”
Every guy on the bus was singing (screaming) and beating their hands on the seats in tune with the music. When my girl friend dumped on me I would silently hum “Don’t play with me cause your playing with fire.”
Forty years later my concert partner and mate, Gerry, are at America West Arena seeing them in concert. Remarkable!
Forty years and forty albums released. Eight number one hits!
Mick Jagger, Keith Richard, and Charlie Watts were there from the beginning. Mick and Keith are both pushing 60. Ron Wood has been a Stone for thirty years. Original band member Brian Jones was found dead in his swimming pool in 1969. The official coroner’s report listed his death as a result of “misadventure.”
In the 60s, before they appeared on his show, Ed Sullivan ordered Mick Jagger to sing “Lets spend some time together” instead of the original lyric “Lets spend the night together.”
At a free concert at Altamount Speedway in California, a nightmarish murder committed by Hell’s Angels hired as security guards occurred in front of the stage while the group played “Sympathy for the Devil.”
Over the years there has been a long list of drug busts. But things have changed. The bad boys are focused and solid. They are filling arenas wherever they go and have amassed enough wealth to be on the cover of Fortune magazine.
Tickets to see the legends were expensive. But like a birder wanting a rare bird sighting for his lifelong list, El Lobo needed this rare gem for his lifelong concert list. So we paid the price. And it was worth every penny!
This concert at America West Arena has been sold out for months. The lights went out and thousands of red and blue battery powered flashing tongue pins filled the arena. Mick and Keith opened the show with Street Fighting Man. The roar was deafening.
The ageless Jagger pranced throughout the show. Gerry commented that he moved like a man 35 years younger. He started the show wearing a blue jacket and ended in tank top. He demonstrated incredible fitness while he danced and flung his wiry body and well sculpted arms around. The show was astronomical energy from start to finish. Keith Richards smiled throughout the performance and all band members seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their work. Their timeless sound was superb.
The first part of the show they played mostly new stuff, including their latest single release “Don’t Stop.” It went down real smooth. The second part was all about old classics. We really enjoyed their upbeat version of Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone”
They finished with “Jumpin Jack Flash, and by this time the crowd of, mostly, bad boys and girls in their 30s 40s and 50s, were in a frenzy. We would have liked to hear more of their old classics but they could play only a fraction in the terrific two hours that they played. The four old friends who have sustained their close relationship took numerous curtain calls for the appreciative crowd.
This was an alcohol free concert for Ger and I (the limitations of our diets and fitness regimen). We agreed that we would not let that happen again. Therefore it would be hard to rate this concert compared to the other 441 that I have seen that were far from alcohol free. It is definitely in my top 10.
Thanks for the gifts, guys, I can’t imagine this life’s journey without the Stones.
“I know it’s only Rock and Roll, but I like it” sums up it all up.
“Don’t stop!”
The “Forty Licks” tour stop in Phoenix was one of the mothers of all concerts that I have attended (#422) and Mother’s Little Helpers were focused and near perfect. Rolling Stones concerts have been called the greatest show on earth and I agree. Clearly, Mick Jagger is the best front man that the business has seen, and many consider the Stones the greatest Rock and Roll Band of all time. Others would argue that Led Zeppelin deserves that honor but my vote goes to the Stones.
The British group was formed when I was a sophomore in high school—and getting no satisfaction. Two years later “ I Can’t Get No Satisfaction” became the Stones’ first number one hit and an anthem for all young frustrated guys.
The Rolling Stones, who were heavily influenced by American rhythm and blues, took their name from a Muddy Waters’ song. The guys were the original “bad boys” of Rock and Roll.
The Rolling Stones were woven into the fabric of my misspent youth. There are so many memories, such as returning from a draft physical in Oakland on a bus filled with Reno boys. Ralph Gabrazano had his portable radio cranked up to “Paint it Black”
Every guy on the bus was singing (screaming) and beating their hands on the seats in tune with the music. When my girl friend dumped on me I would silently hum “Don’t play with me cause your playing with fire.”
Forty years later my concert partner and mate, Gerry, are at America West Arena seeing them in concert. Remarkable!
Forty years and forty albums released. Eight number one hits!
Mick Jagger, Keith Richard, and Charlie Watts were there from the beginning. Mick and Keith are both pushing 60. Ron Wood has been a Stone for thirty years. Original band member Brian Jones was found dead in his swimming pool in 1969. The official coroner’s report listed his death as a result of “misadventure.”
In the 60s, before they appeared on his show, Ed Sullivan ordered Mick Jagger to sing “Lets spend some time together” instead of the original lyric “Lets spend the night together.”
At a free concert at Altamount Speedway in California, a nightmarish murder committed by Hell’s Angels hired as security guards occurred in front of the stage while the group played “Sympathy for the Devil.”
Over the years there has been a long list of drug busts. But things have changed. The bad boys are focused and solid. They are filling arenas wherever they go and have amassed enough wealth to be on the cover of Fortune magazine.
Tickets to see the legends were expensive. But like a birder wanting a rare bird sighting for his lifelong list, El Lobo needed this rare gem for his lifelong concert list. So we paid the price. And it was worth every penny!
This concert at America West Arena has been sold out for months. The lights went out and thousands of red and blue battery powered flashing tongue pins filled the arena. Mick and Keith opened the show with Street Fighting Man. The roar was deafening.
The ageless Jagger pranced throughout the show. Gerry commented that he moved like a man 35 years younger. He started the show wearing a blue jacket and ended in tank top. He demonstrated incredible fitness while he danced and flung his wiry body and well sculpted arms around. The show was astronomical energy from start to finish. Keith Richards smiled throughout the performance and all band members seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their work. Their timeless sound was superb.
The first part of the show they played mostly new stuff, including their latest single release “Don’t Stop.” It went down real smooth. The second part was all about old classics. We really enjoyed their upbeat version of Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone”
They finished with “Jumpin Jack Flash, and by this time the crowd of, mostly, bad boys and girls in their 30s 40s and 50s, were in a frenzy. We would have liked to hear more of their old classics but they could play only a fraction in the terrific two hours that they played. The four old friends who have sustained their close relationship took numerous curtain calls for the appreciative crowd.
This was an alcohol free concert for Ger and I (the limitations of our diets and fitness regimen). We agreed that we would not let that happen again. Therefore it would be hard to rate this concert compared to the other 441 that I have seen that were far from alcohol free. It is definitely in my top 10.
Thanks for the gifts, guys, I can’t imagine this life’s journey without the Stones.
“I know it’s only Rock and Roll, but I like it” sums up it all up.
“Don’t stop!”
11/13/2002
Grand Wash Cliffs -Grand Canyon
“I’d like to sleep with you in the desert tonight, with a billion stars all around.”
Eagles 1972
I had the pleasure of spending five days in the Grand Wash Hook area of the Grand Canyon, assisting the National Park Service with an archeological survey. Grand Wash Hook is at the far Western end of the Grand Canyon, an area that I had not yet explored. Getting there involved a two hour back road drive from Kingman. Our camp was set up like a River trip camp, but in a Joshua tree forest. The meals served were close to gourmet. Early evenings were spent discussing the Canyon around a campfire with beer or favorite libation in hand. Temperatures got down to the teens. It was a little chilly in the old bag. One evening, strong winds blew my tent over with me in it.
The days were spent hiking and searching for parts and pieces constructed by those that came before us. We also were looking for desert tortoises and their burrows. Day time temperatures were in the high fifties and quite pleasant.
Apocalypse Now
Our camp was close to the flight pattern of the 80+ daily helicopter flights that bring tourists from Las Vegas to the view at Quartermaster Canyon. It is a splendid view. A great representation of the Canyon. I hiked down as close to the river as I could get.
The helicopters land on a pad on Hualapai Indian land and the tourists have a lunch of barbecue beef at the modest Hualapai facility. There is also a small gift shop. Cost of a trip from Las Vegas is about $275
We witnessed several helicopters flying much too low and barely clearing the Grand Wash Cliffs.
According to the recently published book “Death in the Canyon,” these flights are piloted by low paid and thus inexperienced pilots. In addition, many aircraft are not equipped with the proper power necessary to negotiate the Canyon.
A helicopter crashed late last year and took six lives. The only survivor lost her husband, child and her leg. Apparently the Canyon down drafts require a high level of skill and experience to navigate the complex environment.
Limiting the flights over the Canyon has been a controversial issue. In certain areas of the canyon the noise pollution is horrible. Grand Canyon air tours is a big business with a lot of money involved. This will not be an easy battle.
Findings
We found a plethora of roasting pits and a dense concentration of potsherds in numerous areas. We also found a dense concentration of post archaic assemblages. (Arrow heads, chips, spear heads, stones used as tools etc.
We did not sight any desert tortoises but did find and record numerous burrows.
Each area was mapped and data was collected. This was an interesting process and afforded me the opportunity to learn a lot about archeology.
Wildlife sightings included a herd of pronghorn antelopes, coyotes, mule deer, and rabbits.
Eagles 1972
I had the pleasure of spending five days in the Grand Wash Hook area of the Grand Canyon, assisting the National Park Service with an archeological survey. Grand Wash Hook is at the far Western end of the Grand Canyon, an area that I had not yet explored. Getting there involved a two hour back road drive from Kingman. Our camp was set up like a River trip camp, but in a Joshua tree forest. The meals served were close to gourmet. Early evenings were spent discussing the Canyon around a campfire with beer or favorite libation in hand. Temperatures got down to the teens. It was a little chilly in the old bag. One evening, strong winds blew my tent over with me in it.
The days were spent hiking and searching for parts and pieces constructed by those that came before us. We also were looking for desert tortoises and their burrows. Day time temperatures were in the high fifties and quite pleasant.
Apocalypse Now
Our camp was close to the flight pattern of the 80+ daily helicopter flights that bring tourists from Las Vegas to the view at Quartermaster Canyon. It is a splendid view. A great representation of the Canyon. I hiked down as close to the river as I could get.
The helicopters land on a pad on Hualapai Indian land and the tourists have a lunch of barbecue beef at the modest Hualapai facility. There is also a small gift shop. Cost of a trip from Las Vegas is about $275
We witnessed several helicopters flying much too low and barely clearing the Grand Wash Cliffs.
According to the recently published book “Death in the Canyon,” these flights are piloted by low paid and thus inexperienced pilots. In addition, many aircraft are not equipped with the proper power necessary to negotiate the Canyon.
A helicopter crashed late last year and took six lives. The only survivor lost her husband, child and her leg. Apparently the Canyon down drafts require a high level of skill and experience to navigate the complex environment.
Limiting the flights over the Canyon has been a controversial issue. In certain areas of the canyon the noise pollution is horrible. Grand Canyon air tours is a big business with a lot of money involved. This will not be an easy battle.
Findings
We found a plethora of roasting pits and a dense concentration of potsherds in numerous areas. We also found a dense concentration of post archaic assemblages. (Arrow heads, chips, spear heads, stones used as tools etc.
We did not sight any desert tortoises but did find and record numerous burrows.
Each area was mapped and data was collected. This was an interesting process and afforded me the opportunity to learn a lot about archeology.
Wildlife sightings included a herd of pronghorn antelopes, coyotes, mule deer, and rabbits.
10/15/2002
America and Kansas
“Now don’t hang on, nothin lasts forever but the earth and sky, it slips away and all your money won’t another minute buy”
Kansas –Dust in the wind –1/78
Late Saturday afternoon, after a long day of rock climbing followed up with yoga, I sat down and contemplated our evening plans to attend a concert at the Celebrity Theatre in Phoenix. A nagging cold had zapped my energy and the following morning I had to get up real early for a day of canyoneering down the Bill Williams River. Why go? After all, we had seen America four times previous, that included a performance in a beautiful outdoor pavilion in Maui. Gerry was indifferent.
I appealed to my compulsive side for motivation, but adding Kansas to my lifelong group and concerts list was not enough. Had age finally caught up to Lobo? Was he through living his life with passion? – Not! - Old Lobo reached up and found a hand hold, stepped to the bar, where he filled up a flask with Captain Morgan demon rum, took a big swallow and ready to go.
So, my concert partner of thirty three years and I took off for our fountain of youth, the Celebrity Theatre. Outside, we negotiated seats in the tenth row for a good price from a scalper. Inside, we were a teenage couple on a date.
After attending 439 lifetime performances, it is my humble opinion that the Celebrity Theatre is absolutely the best venue to see a concert. It is a circular with a revolving stage, small, and all seats up close and personal. The Celebrity is simply charming.
America opened the show, and all 2667 seats were occupied. The group started out as a trio of Air Force brats in 1969 at an American school in the UK. In the early 70s they put together a remarkable string of million-selling albums that included two number one hits and six other classics that were in Billboard’s top ten. Now a duo, Dewey Bunnell and Gerry Beckley have also partnered for 33 years. Three members of their support band have been with them over 25 years.
Their distinctive sound of clean harmonies and evocative lyrics continues to have great appeal and had the delighted crowd singing along, and grooving out to their disarming sound. They sounded better than ever!
A horse with no name (# 20 on Lobo’s all time hit list) was the encore song and it brought the house down.
Kansas closed the show and they were, well, loud! But this was a Kansas crowd, and they were really into it. Kansas is a progressive rock group that was formed in Topeka, also in 1969. Their sound is a unique blend of violin with hard rock.. Folk Rock? Gerry thought that they were a 70s version of ZZ Top. They were anything but disarming except for their million seller haunting melody-Dust in the Wind. (#325 on Lobo’s all time hit list)
Dust in the wind sent shivers up my spine and it was worth staying through the loud hard stuff.
Over all I rate this concert a 9.7 and look forward to a future evening at the Celebrity.
Kansas –Dust in the wind –1/78
Late Saturday afternoon, after a long day of rock climbing followed up with yoga, I sat down and contemplated our evening plans to attend a concert at the Celebrity Theatre in Phoenix. A nagging cold had zapped my energy and the following morning I had to get up real early for a day of canyoneering down the Bill Williams River. Why go? After all, we had seen America four times previous, that included a performance in a beautiful outdoor pavilion in Maui. Gerry was indifferent.
I appealed to my compulsive side for motivation, but adding Kansas to my lifelong group and concerts list was not enough. Had age finally caught up to Lobo? Was he through living his life with passion? – Not! - Old Lobo reached up and found a hand hold, stepped to the bar, where he filled up a flask with Captain Morgan demon rum, took a big swallow and ready to go.
So, my concert partner of thirty three years and I took off for our fountain of youth, the Celebrity Theatre. Outside, we negotiated seats in the tenth row for a good price from a scalper. Inside, we were a teenage couple on a date.
After attending 439 lifetime performances, it is my humble opinion that the Celebrity Theatre is absolutely the best venue to see a concert. It is a circular with a revolving stage, small, and all seats up close and personal. The Celebrity is simply charming.
America opened the show, and all 2667 seats were occupied. The group started out as a trio of Air Force brats in 1969 at an American school in the UK. In the early 70s they put together a remarkable string of million-selling albums that included two number one hits and six other classics that were in Billboard’s top ten. Now a duo, Dewey Bunnell and Gerry Beckley have also partnered for 33 years. Three members of their support band have been with them over 25 years.
Their distinctive sound of clean harmonies and evocative lyrics continues to have great appeal and had the delighted crowd singing along, and grooving out to their disarming sound. They sounded better than ever!
A horse with no name (# 20 on Lobo’s all time hit list) was the encore song and it brought the house down.
Kansas closed the show and they were, well, loud! But this was a Kansas crowd, and they were really into it. Kansas is a progressive rock group that was formed in Topeka, also in 1969. Their sound is a unique blend of violin with hard rock.. Folk Rock? Gerry thought that they were a 70s version of ZZ Top. They were anything but disarming except for their million seller haunting melody-Dust in the Wind. (#325 on Lobo’s all time hit list)
Dust in the wind sent shivers up my spine and it was worth staying through the loud hard stuff.
Over all I rate this concert a 9.7 and look forward to a future evening at the Celebrity.
South Eastern Seashore -Shenendoah NP
Just returned from a great little adventure with my mate, Gerry. Gerry hadaconference in Norfolk, so thanks to her this trip was possible. We jammeda 7day vacation into 3 1/2 days, but that seems to be our way. The quality ofthis mini vacation made it well worth traveling 4400 air miles and 1200 carmiles.This little trip back East took us to brilliant fall colors, sparkleingseashore, interesting colonial and civil war sites, wildlife refuges,Universities, National Parks, Appalacian trail, and an island full of wildponies.(Assateague)EL LOBO SEZ:See Virginia in the fall!!! Norfolk is a great launching point.On Saturday we drove up the Eastern shore of Virginia through Virginiabeachand went over to a couple of Islands on the National Seashore. We stoppedatseveral National Wildlife refuges including Chincoteague and saw manyinteresting bird species as well as butterflies. The walks were reallymellowand relaxing.We spent most of the afternoon at Assateague viewing the wild ponies. Twoherds make their home here between Virginia and Maryland. Each year horsesfrom the Virginia herd are rounded up and many of the foals are sold at thePony Penning and auction held in July.These wild ponies are descendantsfromdomesticated stock that were grazed here during the 17th Century. Thesehorsesswim in the ocean. Overall this was just too cool!!!! Certainly thehighlightof our trip.We drove up the Maryland coast to Ocean beach. This strip is where theEasterners go for their summer vacations to the beach. We ended up inDelawareat a local all you can eat crab house for Dinner. They just roll out brownpaper on the tables and bring on the crab and clams. Cracking all that craband drinking a few beers made for a long 200 mile drive back to Norfolk.The next day we headed towards Charlottsville, our launching point forShenendoah National Park. We stopped at Williamsburg, Yorktown battlefield,Jamestown, and a couple of plantations on the way. So much rich history!!!Williamsburg was pricy and a bit of a rip off.In Charlottsville we toured the University of Virginia, our country's firstPublic University. UofV is on Jake's short list for his doctoral work, sowewanted to check it out.On Monday we drove through Shenendoah National Park and hiked a couple ofnicesections of the Appalacian trail. The trees were gorgeous and the hikingverymellow. The park was not crowded and we really enjoyed our time there.El Lobo wanted to see Harpers Ferry in West Virginia -rich in all kinds ofhistory-the most notable being John Brown's slave rebellion. We arrived atHarpers Ferry at quarter to five and unfortunately had to to do a realquickietour of this great park.Again, it was a long drive that night back to our hotel. (200 miles)The next morning we went to Thomas Jefferson's Monticello. This is a firstclass deal. Beautiful scenery and very interesting history. The tours wereexcellent.Jefferson was certainly a great man but a contradiction-owning over 400slaves.Overall I rate this mini vacation a solid 10. Very enjoyable, andstatistically beneficial.3 states added to list- total 46 -only four more to go-Kansas, Arkansas, SCarolina, N Dakota1 National Park-total 30- 22 left-5 in Alaska, 10 in the East 7 in the West4 added to the National Park System -Total 125- 250 left which includeshistoric sites, National parks, memorials, monuments, battlefields,recreationareas, Seashores, lakeshores, rivers -There are a total of 375 of thesebeautiful places in our country!!!! Only two people have been recorded asvisiting all 375-both college professors.El Lobo sez start seeing them now!!! and update your list!!!A little known fact is that the National Wildlife refuges (close to 400 ofthem) in the US are managed by a different agency than the National parks.They are managed by the Fish and Wildlife service.El lobo needs to start tracking the Wild Life Refuges visited and start anewlist!!!!
10/13/2002
Tanque Verde-Rincons
There are two types of people in this world. Those that have guns, and those that dig.
Blondie (The Good- Clint Eastwood) to Tuco (The Bad –Eli Wallich) in the graveyard.
Que pasa amigos,
Como estas tu?
February and March are primo Arizona months. The weather is absolutely perfect for an outside adventure.
The hombres were getting a little soft around the middle and requested that El Lobo plan a challenging viaje. El hijo, Jake, amigo Lorennzo and I departed for the Old Pueblo (Tuscon) temprano las cuatro y treinta de la manana for what would be a very long day.
A bald eagle has been nesting just outside of Tuscon and there were two jaguars recently spotted and filmed south of Tuscon. We spotted a cardinal and a coyote on the way to the trailhead.
We started our trek at the Tanque Verde trailhead in Saguaro National Park and for seven hours followed the strnuous and sometimes torturing route following Tanque Verde ridge to 7049-foot Tanque Verde Peak. We logged 18 miles and close to 10,000 feet of elevation gain/loss. Mucho dulce-Kit Kat Bars and Snickers were consumed to take the painful edge off the trip. Along the way the trail winds among tall saguaros , climbs wildflower dotted slopes, and passes through delightful forrests of oak, pinyon and juniper. I absolutely love this blend of ecosystems! We passed through a beautiful Juniper Basin Campground (5900’) where there were several pockets of water. This would be a superb spot for an overnight. There were only small patches of snow along the higher elevations unlike the Rincon Peak hike last year at this time where we had to wade through waste high powder for the last ½ mile to the summit.. Tanque Verde Peak requires a bit of a tricky scramble but affords a commanding view of Tuscon and the Rincon Mountains backcountry. Included in this 360 degree panaramic view are the Santa Rita and Huachuca Mountains, the little Rincons, the Galiuro and Santa Catalina Mountains and the city of Tuscon.
The climb back was arduous but Pacifico cervezas were excellente treatment for our tired feet at Zo’s carro.
The Rincons offer a wonderful remote backcountry experience, close to a metroplitan area. I rate this hike a solid 9.
The hike was only half the adventure as we stopped in the Old Hotel Congress on our way to El Minuto for dinner. The Old Congress is really a funky enjoyable experience.
John Dillinger was apprehended in this hotel. The atmosphere is one out of the 40s.
The eclectic bar served Schlitz, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Old Style. The cliental was something similar to the bar in Star Wars. We made numerous friends, one being a Supai woman that many years ago left the land of blue/green waterfalls in the Grand Canyon to get an education at the U of A. She requested that I play R E S P E C T by Aretha on the jukebox with great selections. Sadly, she left the reservation for a better life and is now a regular at the Old Congress.
In the corner of the bar, one gentleman gave us hard looks and was growling like a wild animal.
When informed that I was “El Lobo Grande” the bar manager reponded with a “No shit!”
If you are in Tuscon don’t miss this slice of life.
It was years ago when Gerry and I stayed in the same Hotel bar when we were told about the best Mexican restaurant in the Universe by locals. Since that time I don’t miss a meal at El Minuto when in the Old Pueblo. This was no exception as the three of us again greedily scarfed down the tasty specials and superb margaritas.
We arrived back in Phoenix en tarde but safe thanks to Lorenzo.
The very popular
MEN BEHAVING BADLY SECTION
El Lobo, busted at the trailhead by a ranger for merely marking his territory.
Jacobo, constantly upsetting the serenity on the trail by yelling GEEEEZZ when detecting an odorous wind.
Jacobo, vowing to never hike again at mile 17. At least he quit at the end of the hike and not ½ like Steve Yahner.
Lorenzo, making large cat type sounds on the trail after a weak emission.
Question: Where’s Steve?
Answer: Napping in Scottsdale after a huge breakfast of Jimmy Dean’s pure pork sausage.
Blondie (The Good- Clint Eastwood) to Tuco (The Bad –Eli Wallich) in the graveyard.
Que pasa amigos,
Como estas tu?
February and March are primo Arizona months. The weather is absolutely perfect for an outside adventure.
The hombres were getting a little soft around the middle and requested that El Lobo plan a challenging viaje. El hijo, Jake, amigo Lorennzo and I departed for the Old Pueblo (Tuscon) temprano las cuatro y treinta de la manana for what would be a very long day.
A bald eagle has been nesting just outside of Tuscon and there were two jaguars recently spotted and filmed south of Tuscon. We spotted a cardinal and a coyote on the way to the trailhead.
We started our trek at the Tanque Verde trailhead in Saguaro National Park and for seven hours followed the strnuous and sometimes torturing route following Tanque Verde ridge to 7049-foot Tanque Verde Peak. We logged 18 miles and close to 10,000 feet of elevation gain/loss. Mucho dulce-Kit Kat Bars and Snickers were consumed to take the painful edge off the trip. Along the way the trail winds among tall saguaros , climbs wildflower dotted slopes, and passes through delightful forrests of oak, pinyon and juniper. I absolutely love this blend of ecosystems! We passed through a beautiful Juniper Basin Campground (5900’) where there were several pockets of water. This would be a superb spot for an overnight. There were only small patches of snow along the higher elevations unlike the Rincon Peak hike last year at this time where we had to wade through waste high powder for the last ½ mile to the summit.. Tanque Verde Peak requires a bit of a tricky scramble but affords a commanding view of Tuscon and the Rincon Mountains backcountry. Included in this 360 degree panaramic view are the Santa Rita and Huachuca Mountains, the little Rincons, the Galiuro and Santa Catalina Mountains and the city of Tuscon.
The climb back was arduous but Pacifico cervezas were excellente treatment for our tired feet at Zo’s carro.
The Rincons offer a wonderful remote backcountry experience, close to a metroplitan area. I rate this hike a solid 9.
The hike was only half the adventure as we stopped in the Old Hotel Congress on our way to El Minuto for dinner. The Old Congress is really a funky enjoyable experience.
John Dillinger was apprehended in this hotel. The atmosphere is one out of the 40s.
The eclectic bar served Schlitz, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Old Style. The cliental was something similar to the bar in Star Wars. We made numerous friends, one being a Supai woman that many years ago left the land of blue/green waterfalls in the Grand Canyon to get an education at the U of A. She requested that I play R E S P E C T by Aretha on the jukebox with great selections. Sadly, she left the reservation for a better life and is now a regular at the Old Congress.
In the corner of the bar, one gentleman gave us hard looks and was growling like a wild animal.
When informed that I was “El Lobo Grande” the bar manager reponded with a “No shit!”
If you are in Tuscon don’t miss this slice of life.
It was years ago when Gerry and I stayed in the same Hotel bar when we were told about the best Mexican restaurant in the Universe by locals. Since that time I don’t miss a meal at El Minuto when in the Old Pueblo. This was no exception as the three of us again greedily scarfed down the tasty specials and superb margaritas.
We arrived back in Phoenix en tarde but safe thanks to Lorenzo.
The very popular
MEN BEHAVING BADLY SECTION
El Lobo, busted at the trailhead by a ranger for merely marking his territory.
Jacobo, constantly upsetting the serenity on the trail by yelling GEEEEZZ when detecting an odorous wind.
Jacobo, vowing to never hike again at mile 17. At least he quit at the end of the hike and not ½ like Steve Yahner.
Lorenzo, making large cat type sounds on the trail after a weak emission.
Question: Where’s Steve?
Answer: Napping in Scottsdale after a huge breakfast of Jimmy Dean’s pure pork sausage.
Grand Canyon-Fishtail Royre -North Rim
“Two Rabbits in a ditch, Must be the season of the witch”
Donovan-1967
On the Esplinade of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon below Fishtail Mesa, two large rabbits were sighted in a drainage, running in opposite directions. Both maintained their sprint at exactly equal distance from our point of vision, rapidly widening the picture frame.
I commented that this was a bad omen. This scene turned out to be symbolic of the group’s wander.
Slawa and Lobo left Phoenix at 2:00 P.M. on Thursday and seven hours later, we arrived at Indian Hollow on the North Rim. The last fifty miles were driven on back roads.
We camped on the rim with Bob.
The following morning, Amy, Kelly and Trace arrived at 8:30 A.M. and we headed down the Thunder River trail. This was a first trip into the canyon for Amy and Kelly.
After a couple of miles we departed from the trail and went West, in search of Ghost Rock and various cowboy camps reported to be in the area.
Ghost Rock was located and we climbed up to find magnificent large pictographs etched into the rock.
A short while later we located under an overhang, an amazingly well preserved cowboy camp. This “hideout” included historic coffee mugs, coffee pot, axes, hammers and other tools. It was all very interesting.
We set up our camp close by.
The afternoon was spent searching for water at a local spring. Dripping water was sighted, however a safe passage was not found and limited daylight necessitated giving up the hunt for the day.
That evening, a storm system moved in. Bob left early in search of the Spring. He returned in a short period of time with full water containers. Due to the storm most of the group desired to retreat to the trailhead. Bob preferred to weather the storm and go out the following day as planned.
The storm intensified and we trekked out in wind and snow flurries. The canyon views in were splendid. The group maintained good spirits and thanks to Slawa and Trace’s navigation skills we arrived at the cars around 11:00 A.M.
On the return trip Slawa and Lobo stopped at Macey’s, an eclectic coffee shop in Flag and enjoyed a great lasagna dinner. We arrived back in Phoenix at 8:00 P.M. Saturday evening.
The always popular Men and Women behaving badly.
-Trace, Amy and Kelly for staying up late and consuming demon rum, laughing and telling stories late into the evening.
-Amy and Kelly for making loud cat and coyote like sounds while climbing out of the
canyon.
-Lobo for barking frequently
Donovan-1967
On the Esplinade of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon below Fishtail Mesa, two large rabbits were sighted in a drainage, running in opposite directions. Both maintained their sprint at exactly equal distance from our point of vision, rapidly widening the picture frame.
I commented that this was a bad omen. This scene turned out to be symbolic of the group’s wander.
Slawa and Lobo left Phoenix at 2:00 P.M. on Thursday and seven hours later, we arrived at Indian Hollow on the North Rim. The last fifty miles were driven on back roads.
We camped on the rim with Bob.
The following morning, Amy, Kelly and Trace arrived at 8:30 A.M. and we headed down the Thunder River trail. This was a first trip into the canyon for Amy and Kelly.
After a couple of miles we departed from the trail and went West, in search of Ghost Rock and various cowboy camps reported to be in the area.
Ghost Rock was located and we climbed up to find magnificent large pictographs etched into the rock.
A short while later we located under an overhang, an amazingly well preserved cowboy camp. This “hideout” included historic coffee mugs, coffee pot, axes, hammers and other tools. It was all very interesting.
We set up our camp close by.
The afternoon was spent searching for water at a local spring. Dripping water was sighted, however a safe passage was not found and limited daylight necessitated giving up the hunt for the day.
That evening, a storm system moved in. Bob left early in search of the Spring. He returned in a short period of time with full water containers. Due to the storm most of the group desired to retreat to the trailhead. Bob preferred to weather the storm and go out the following day as planned.
The storm intensified and we trekked out in wind and snow flurries. The canyon views in were splendid. The group maintained good spirits and thanks to Slawa and Trace’s navigation skills we arrived at the cars around 11:00 A.M.
On the return trip Slawa and Lobo stopped at Macey’s, an eclectic coffee shop in Flag and enjoyed a great lasagna dinner. We arrived back in Phoenix at 8:00 P.M. Saturday evening.
The always popular Men and Women behaving badly.
-Trace, Amy and Kelly for staying up late and consuming demon rum, laughing and telling stories late into the evening.
-Amy and Kelly for making loud cat and coyote like sounds while climbing out of the
canyon.
-Lobo for barking frequently
9/13/2002
Aztec Peak
"Perhaps living through these petty days will get us ready for the dangerous ones." -Bukowsk
iSierra Anchas Wilderness -Aztec Peak -14 miles -3125' elevation gain-Buenos dias muchachos,This past weekend was spent in the Sierra Anchas. We stayed at ASU's experimental station in rustic cabins, built by the CCC in the 1930s. These cabins had everything we needed, including hot showers. Black bear warnings were posted throughout the complex. This was a Sierra Club outing and was extremely enjoyable and relaxing. The company was great and the wilderness special. My love of Arizona and nature was restored, after too many compulsive, excessive outings in the Grand Canyon. The question of balance was answered.The Sierra Anchas (wide mountains) Wilderness is a relatively small area at 20,850 acres. The wilderness is located 45 miles northwest of Globe and is approximately a two hour drive from the Phoenix area. Although defined by steep box canyons and high cliffs the area offers an impressive number of hiking trails. The wilderness also features numerous prehistoric ruins. Mule deer, javelinas, gray fox, mountain lions, bobcat, elk, ringtail, and black bears inhabit the Sierra Anchas.I found it interesting that none of the trails are contained in any of the dozen or more hiking books that I have on Arizona hiking.On Saturday, our group started up the Parker Creek trail, hiking through a mixture of oak and Mountain Mahogany at the lower elevations and worked our way to the higher elevations to Ponderosa and Douglas Fir. The group enjoyed several clusters of wildflowers, which is a rare sight this year due to the lack of precipitation. We marveled at the brilliant Monarch butterflies that had found the wildflowers. The temperature was in the low 70s.We hiked up to a primitive road and then on to the highest point in the Wilderness-Aztec Peak, and its active fire lookout at 7748 ft.Edward Abbey, author, and environmental "voice of the Southwest," was a lookout in this tower for many summers. He did some of his writing here, and asked us to look around and take stock of what we value, before it is too late.The summit of Aztec peak offers some of the best panoramic views in Arizona. The top has been likened to the Flintstone's bedrock home and included several stone easy chairs.We spent a couple of relaxing hours having lunch. We engaged in the dangling conversation, while gazing at the magnificent view. "Can analysis be worthwhile? Is the theatre really dead."On such a mellow day I could not imagine the horrific event that would come later that evening.Upon return to the camp, the famous Dingo Dan paid our cabin a visit. Dingo had come up in the morning to hike with us but somehow missed us? and did a solo to the top of Aztec. Dan went back to Phoenix that evening and missed the terror.That evening, a variety of cervezas and vino flowed, accompanied by a delicious pot luck dinner in the dining building. The conversation was light and fun and everyone seemed to really enjoy.Jim Roosen mentioned that while he was sleeping the previous evening upstairs in one of the cabins, he was awakened by sounds downstairs and when he went downstairs in the morning, several drawers and cabinet doors were open and the front door was open.Everyone laughed nervously, but dismissed his story as one of "Jim's stories"In retrospect, this was a big mistake, however I do not believe that I could prepare for, or prevent the event that may haunt me all my life.We retired in the darkness back to our cabins around 9:00 P.M. It was one of those brilliant clear Arizona nights, thousands of bright stars in the sky. Someone thought they saw some yellow eyes in the darkness. But again, this was dismissed as joking.El Lobo had a hard time getting to sleep and heard noises outside that sounded like heavy scratching but thought that it was just the wind and finally dozed off.Later that evening, Lobo was in a deep sleep when his roommate (unnamed due to liability) let out a blood curdling scream!Then it was over within a few seconds.Roommate-"Something was clawing at me" Lobo-"I don't see anything"Roommate, with flashlight in El Lobo's yellow eyes- "Something tugged at me!"Lobo-"It wasn't me"Roommate-"I'm telling you something grabbed me"Lobo-"What did it look like? Where did it go?"Roommate-"It was huge and it ran away"Lobo-"Really?"Roommate-" Do you think that I am having a nightmare?" Lobo-"I dunno"Roommate-"I can't believe that I hiked that trail today where there are all those bears and mountain lions!"Lobo showed teeth, barked, turned over and went back to sleep.Oh well, you can't expect a perfect trip. Now can you?Thanks to Jim Roosen and "Chuckwalla" for organizing a terrific outing.
iSierra Anchas Wilderness -Aztec Peak -14 miles -3125' elevation gain-Buenos dias muchachos,This past weekend was spent in the Sierra Anchas. We stayed at ASU's experimental station in rustic cabins, built by the CCC in the 1930s. These cabins had everything we needed, including hot showers. Black bear warnings were posted throughout the complex. This was a Sierra Club outing and was extremely enjoyable and relaxing. The company was great and the wilderness special. My love of Arizona and nature was restored, after too many compulsive, excessive outings in the Grand Canyon. The question of balance was answered.The Sierra Anchas (wide mountains) Wilderness is a relatively small area at 20,850 acres. The wilderness is located 45 miles northwest of Globe and is approximately a two hour drive from the Phoenix area. Although defined by steep box canyons and high cliffs the area offers an impressive number of hiking trails. The wilderness also features numerous prehistoric ruins. Mule deer, javelinas, gray fox, mountain lions, bobcat, elk, ringtail, and black bears inhabit the Sierra Anchas.I found it interesting that none of the trails are contained in any of the dozen or more hiking books that I have on Arizona hiking.On Saturday, our group started up the Parker Creek trail, hiking through a mixture of oak and Mountain Mahogany at the lower elevations and worked our way to the higher elevations to Ponderosa and Douglas Fir. The group enjoyed several clusters of wildflowers, which is a rare sight this year due to the lack of precipitation. We marveled at the brilliant Monarch butterflies that had found the wildflowers. The temperature was in the low 70s.We hiked up to a primitive road and then on to the highest point in the Wilderness-Aztec Peak, and its active fire lookout at 7748 ft.Edward Abbey, author, and environmental "voice of the Southwest," was a lookout in this tower for many summers. He did some of his writing here, and asked us to look around and take stock of what we value, before it is too late.The summit of Aztec peak offers some of the best panoramic views in Arizona. The top has been likened to the Flintstone's bedrock home and included several stone easy chairs.We spent a couple of relaxing hours having lunch. We engaged in the dangling conversation, while gazing at the magnificent view. "Can analysis be worthwhile? Is the theatre really dead."On such a mellow day I could not imagine the horrific event that would come later that evening.Upon return to the camp, the famous Dingo Dan paid our cabin a visit. Dingo had come up in the morning to hike with us but somehow missed us? and did a solo to the top of Aztec. Dan went back to Phoenix that evening and missed the terror.That evening, a variety of cervezas and vino flowed, accompanied by a delicious pot luck dinner in the dining building. The conversation was light and fun and everyone seemed to really enjoy.Jim Roosen mentioned that while he was sleeping the previous evening upstairs in one of the cabins, he was awakened by sounds downstairs and when he went downstairs in the morning, several drawers and cabinet doors were open and the front door was open.Everyone laughed nervously, but dismissed his story as one of "Jim's stories"In retrospect, this was a big mistake, however I do not believe that I could prepare for, or prevent the event that may haunt me all my life.We retired in the darkness back to our cabins around 9:00 P.M. It was one of those brilliant clear Arizona nights, thousands of bright stars in the sky. Someone thought they saw some yellow eyes in the darkness. But again, this was dismissed as joking.El Lobo had a hard time getting to sleep and heard noises outside that sounded like heavy scratching but thought that it was just the wind and finally dozed off.Later that evening, Lobo was in a deep sleep when his roommate (unnamed due to liability) let out a blood curdling scream!Then it was over within a few seconds.Roommate-"Something was clawing at me" Lobo-"I don't see anything"Roommate, with flashlight in El Lobo's yellow eyes- "Something tugged at me!"Lobo-"It wasn't me"Roommate-"I'm telling you something grabbed me"Lobo-"What did it look like? Where did it go?"Roommate-"It was huge and it ran away"Lobo-"Really?"Roommate-" Do you think that I am having a nightmare?" Lobo-"I dunno"Roommate-"I can't believe that I hiked that trail today where there are all those bears and mountain lions!"Lobo showed teeth, barked, turned over and went back to sleep.Oh well, you can't expect a perfect trip. Now can you?Thanks to Jim Roosen and "Chuckwalla" for organizing a terrific outing.
8/01/2002
Reno/Tahoe
“Walk away quietly in any direction
and taste the freedom of the mountaineer.
Camp out among the grass and the gentians of glacier meadows,
in craggy garden nooks.”
John Muir
AHHHHHHHH
Ten days of adventure back home in Reno/Tahoe. The mission was to maximize the 240 precious hours engaged in quality activities that included visiting as many family and friends as possible. A plan was developed loaded with schedules, itineraries, alternatives, and escape routes.
Mission Accomplished!
“The Fabulous Spook” picked me up at the airport. The “Image of a girl” flowed like a mountain stream from his speakers and I immediately plugged into the moment, past and present. We hit the Hunter Lake trail a half/hour later.
Almost forty years ago SpOOk and I sampled cases of Colt 45, Oly and Coors on this road/trail in the company of several other bad boys.
(J latourette, Bo Ewald, Bob Shea to name a few)
The next day we hit the all class Reno High Reunion, a slice of life. It was a great surprise to see Dave Slagle again after 14 years.
See Spook’s trip report sent out on 8/28.
I found out at the reunion that my beloved YMCA with the best steam and Jacuzzi in the world would be closed for the week. This was considered a major crisis, causing me to settle for the hot tub at my son, Clint’s apartment.
Other Highlights-
- “Cruising” and Listening to 103.7 “The River” 60s and 70s radio station.
- The post hike party along the hosted by the Damon’s
- Fly fishing the Truckee (The River)
- Running along “The River” with the old gang
- Valuable time shared with great friends and family
- Running into old friends and enjoying the steam and hot tub at the Y when it finally reopened.
-
- Downing “Ickys”(short for Ichthyosaurs, meaning fish lizards) and Sierra Nevadas at Tahoe Microbreweries
- Crystal clear and the bluest of blues-Lake Tahoe the gem of the Sierras
- Camping at Dl Bliss campgrounds at Tahoe and hiking with Hannu-
-
Tahoe Rim Trail section from Echo Summit-15 miles
Granite Chief Wilderness to Bear Pen-Cross country- connect to PCT -Barker Pass loop (Hannu & my nephew
Justin) 14 miles
The Rubicon Trail contouring the lake- 11 miles
-Attending Cyd’s wedding (Bob Ewald’s beautiful daughter) at the Lake Tahoe Golf Course. I was honored to sit at the Ewald family table.
Note: The Granite Chief Wilderness is a scenic area of exposed rock formations, granite cliffs, and glacier carved valleys, forests and meadows.
The wildflowers were spectacular-lupine, mule ears and pennyroyal to name a few. At the headwaters of the American River, this Wilderness receives light human use, a big attraction to those of us that seek solitude. We saw no one. It is a great alternative to the heavily used Desolation Wilderness to the South. “Bear Pen” is a small meadow at the end of a canyon. It is appropriately named as we found numerous mounds of bear scat.
“Old friends, old friends, sat on their park bench like bookends.”
Bookends album 4/68 Simon & Garfunkle
I had the opportunity to visit with two extra special old friends this trip. Joe Duhart (Mike’s dad) and Buzz Moore.
Joe is in a extended care facility suffering with Ahlzeimer’s disease. I do believe that he recognized me.
I visited Buzz at his home off Lakeside Drive. Buzz is battleing Parkinson’s disease.
At one point in our conversation, Buzz whispered “Do it while you can” when I was telling him about our trip to Italy.
They both continue to be great Truckee meadow warriors.
MEN BEHAVING BADLY
-Disco Will (Willie Molini) for being Disco Will
-TF SPOOK for declining life saving water from a couple in a dune buggy and then wining about his blackened toes after the hike
-Hannu for turning a recreational hike into an intense orienteering training session, travelling at break neck speed and impatiently pacing whenever I would stop for a breath taking view of Lake Tahoe.
-Hannu for taking a long break on the Rubicon trail to view a top less sunbathing beauty on a boat. He continues to put the “dirty” in dirty old man.
-El Lobo for screaming obscenities in the killer shower at DL Bliss campgrounds. The high velocity rivaled a fire hose and hurt certain valuable parts of the wolf’s anatomy real bad.
Overall this trip is rated a 10+++++++++
Thanks to the Damon’s and Clint for their hospitality putting me up. I appreciate the time all friends and family shared with me. You are simply the best!
and taste the freedom of the mountaineer.
Camp out among the grass and the gentians of glacier meadows,
in craggy garden nooks.”
John Muir
AHHHHHHHH
Ten days of adventure back home in Reno/Tahoe. The mission was to maximize the 240 precious hours engaged in quality activities that included visiting as many family and friends as possible. A plan was developed loaded with schedules, itineraries, alternatives, and escape routes.
Mission Accomplished!
“The Fabulous Spook” picked me up at the airport. The “Image of a girl” flowed like a mountain stream from his speakers and I immediately plugged into the moment, past and present. We hit the Hunter Lake trail a half/hour later.
Almost forty years ago SpOOk and I sampled cases of Colt 45, Oly and Coors on this road/trail in the company of several other bad boys.
(J latourette, Bo Ewald, Bob Shea to name a few)
The next day we hit the all class Reno High Reunion, a slice of life. It was a great surprise to see Dave Slagle again after 14 years.
See Spook’s trip report sent out on 8/28.
I found out at the reunion that my beloved YMCA with the best steam and Jacuzzi in the world would be closed for the week. This was considered a major crisis, causing me to settle for the hot tub at my son, Clint’s apartment.
Other Highlights-
- “Cruising” and Listening to 103.7 “The River” 60s and 70s radio station.
- The post hike party along the hosted by the Damon’s
- Fly fishing the Truckee (The River)
- Running along “The River” with the old gang
- Valuable time shared with great friends and family
- Running into old friends and enjoying the steam and hot tub at the Y when it finally reopened.
-
- Downing “Ickys”(short for Ichthyosaurs, meaning fish lizards) and Sierra Nevadas at Tahoe Microbreweries
- Crystal clear and the bluest of blues-Lake Tahoe the gem of the Sierras
- Camping at Dl Bliss campgrounds at Tahoe and hiking with Hannu-
-
Tahoe Rim Trail section from Echo Summit-15 miles
Granite Chief Wilderness to Bear Pen-Cross country- connect to PCT -Barker Pass loop (Hannu & my nephew
Justin) 14 miles
The Rubicon Trail contouring the lake- 11 miles
-Attending Cyd’s wedding (Bob Ewald’s beautiful daughter) at the Lake Tahoe Golf Course. I was honored to sit at the Ewald family table.
Note: The Granite Chief Wilderness is a scenic area of exposed rock formations, granite cliffs, and glacier carved valleys, forests and meadows.
The wildflowers were spectacular-lupine, mule ears and pennyroyal to name a few. At the headwaters of the American River, this Wilderness receives light human use, a big attraction to those of us that seek solitude. We saw no one. It is a great alternative to the heavily used Desolation Wilderness to the South. “Bear Pen” is a small meadow at the end of a canyon. It is appropriately named as we found numerous mounds of bear scat.
“Old friends, old friends, sat on their park bench like bookends.”
Bookends album 4/68 Simon & Garfunkle
I had the opportunity to visit with two extra special old friends this trip. Joe Duhart (Mike’s dad) and Buzz Moore.
Joe is in a extended care facility suffering with Ahlzeimer’s disease. I do believe that he recognized me.
I visited Buzz at his home off Lakeside Drive. Buzz is battleing Parkinson’s disease.
At one point in our conversation, Buzz whispered “Do it while you can” when I was telling him about our trip to Italy.
They both continue to be great Truckee meadow warriors.
MEN BEHAVING BADLY
-Disco Will (Willie Molini) for being Disco Will
-TF SPOOK for declining life saving water from a couple in a dune buggy and then wining about his blackened toes after the hike
-Hannu for turning a recreational hike into an intense orienteering training session, travelling at break neck speed and impatiently pacing whenever I would stop for a breath taking view of Lake Tahoe.
-Hannu for taking a long break on the Rubicon trail to view a top less sunbathing beauty on a boat. He continues to put the “dirty” in dirty old man.
-El Lobo for screaming obscenities in the killer shower at DL Bliss campgrounds. The high velocity rivaled a fire hose and hurt certain valuable parts of the wolf’s anatomy real bad.
Overall this trip is rated a 10+++++++++
Thanks to the Damon’s and Clint for their hospitality putting me up. I appreciate the time all friends and family shared with me. You are simply the best!
Republic of Oregon
957 mile loop. Portland- Mount Hood, Bend, Ashland, Eugene, Corvallis-Portland—Trip Rating 10.0
We left Phoenix eight days ago with first class tickets in hand. From that vantage point I gazed upon the harsh and unforgiving Arizona landscape, happy to escape to a mellow environment that appeals to all the senses.
Although I have made countless trips to Oregon, I always look forward to returning. I love the culture. Oregon is the running capital of the world. Oregonians are conscientious stewards of their beautiful state.
I have been told that I rate on the superlative end of the scale, however, this tour of scenic, GREEN western and central Oregon was nothing short of superlative! The weather was perfect. I also enjoyed some of the high desert.
Gerry has dreamed of Ashland theatre all her life. I dreamed of returning to Hayward field at the U of O in Eugene.
The American West is a dream to me. We should not, and cannot let terrorism take away our dreams.
Highlights of this trip include:
-Hiking along the Metolius and Deschute Rivers
-Slamming down Pale Ales at various Oregon Microbreweries
-Hanging out in Sisters and Bend
-Touring the Oregon High Desert Museum
-Visiting Newberry National Volcanic Monument and Crater Lake National Park
-Ashland Theatre-MACBETH and Cupid and Psyche performances
-Walking in indescribable beauty in the park in Ashland
-Visiting with the Cornelius family
-Running on the track at Hayward field and along the Willamette River in Eugene (Track City)
-Climbing Spencer’s Butte outside of Eugene in thick forrests and sword fern
-
Oregon High Desert Museum
If you like the Arizona Desert Sonoran Museum in Tuscon, you will love the Oregon High Desert Museum. It is Smithsonian class, a wonderful place to learn about the nature and culture of the High Desert. Having lived in the High Desert for many years in Reno, I really appreciated the exhibits, animal habitats/interpretations, and the history
Cornelius Estate
We had an absolutely wonderful visit with our good friends Rick and Michelle Cornelius and their two young sons, Josh and Jacob. Josh is quite a good 400 runner and Jake is outstanding in Babe Ruth baseball. They both are good looking young men.
The cornelius family has a beautiful historic home on three acres. They are all doing very well. Rick and Michelle and quite involved and proud of the Ashland community. We were treated royally and really appreciate their down home hospitality. Rick makes the best martinis in the western world!
The Mecca-Hayward Field
In Eugene, my first order of business was to return to -Hayward field.
The women’s hurdle team was working out on the field. They gracefully glided over the hurdles, a beautiful sight.
Track and Field may be dying but not in Oregon. It is my absolute favorite sport. I find it more exciting than all the other sports that I love.
Hayward field is even more holy to me than the old Boston Garden and Fenway Park in Boston. This is where Pre ran. Other legends, including Mary Decker and Alberto Salazar still work out on the track. Nowhere is more important to Nike, than Hayward Field.
As youths, both of our boys won National TAC/AAU events on this field.
I stretched and laid out in the infield with my eyes closed.. I could hear the announcer introduce their names and lanes. I could visualize their finishes.
Exciting times.
Hayward field also brought back the memory of golf balls driven by Delta’s “Otter” hitting ROTC cadets and Neidemeyer’s horse on the field scene in National Lampoon’s classic “Animal House” movie that was filmed at U of O. Unfortunately, the Delta house has now been torn down.
This memory brought tears to my eyes.
That was then, Do it now!
With that thought in mind and caught up with the spirit of the moment, El Lobo decided to do an all out 400, tight hamstrings and all.
It was worth the pain. The last time I ran a 400 was on my fourteeth birthday at the UNR track. I spite of a tremendous hangover I was able to break a minute. I did not record my time at the ripe age of fifty four.
I then headed for the OSU book store and purchased a hooded and pouched track sweat
shirt. It is a prized possession.
The very popular Men and Women behaving badly section.
-Who needs a GPS along when you are driving. Gerry started her driving instructions as soon as we left for the Phoenix airport and continued to tell me how to drive for the full 957 miles.
Gerry-For wining about being hungry and cold while she was telling me how to drive and then complaining about how cold it was at Crater Lake. The manly El Lobo wore his sandals in the snow just to get a glimpse of the magnificent lake.
El Lobo-For drinking three beers before the MACBETH performance and having to find the rest room 10 minutes into the performance and then not allowed to return. He was exiled into a room with a television monitor.
Lifting down into Phoenix the surrounding landscape reminded me of kitty litter. I love sunny Arizona but it is not Oregon. I will return in August for a pack with Rick to the Sister’s Wilderness and then in September for a pack with Sawtooth Steve to the Eagle Cap Wilderness in Northeast Oregon. In the short term, I guess the abyss called the “Big Hole” by Chevy Chase will have to do. In the long term we will continue to dream of our retirement in Placerville.
We left Phoenix eight days ago with first class tickets in hand. From that vantage point I gazed upon the harsh and unforgiving Arizona landscape, happy to escape to a mellow environment that appeals to all the senses.
Although I have made countless trips to Oregon, I always look forward to returning. I love the culture. Oregon is the running capital of the world. Oregonians are conscientious stewards of their beautiful state.
I have been told that I rate on the superlative end of the scale, however, this tour of scenic, GREEN western and central Oregon was nothing short of superlative! The weather was perfect. I also enjoyed some of the high desert.
Gerry has dreamed of Ashland theatre all her life. I dreamed of returning to Hayward field at the U of O in Eugene.
The American West is a dream to me. We should not, and cannot let terrorism take away our dreams.
Highlights of this trip include:
-Hiking along the Metolius and Deschute Rivers
-Slamming down Pale Ales at various Oregon Microbreweries
-Hanging out in Sisters and Bend
-Touring the Oregon High Desert Museum
-Visiting Newberry National Volcanic Monument and Crater Lake National Park
-Ashland Theatre-MACBETH and Cupid and Psyche performances
-Walking in indescribable beauty in the park in Ashland
-Visiting with the Cornelius family
-Running on the track at Hayward field and along the Willamette River in Eugene (Track City)
-Climbing Spencer’s Butte outside of Eugene in thick forrests and sword fern
-
Oregon High Desert Museum
If you like the Arizona Desert Sonoran Museum in Tuscon, you will love the Oregon High Desert Museum. It is Smithsonian class, a wonderful place to learn about the nature and culture of the High Desert. Having lived in the High Desert for many years in Reno, I really appreciated the exhibits, animal habitats/interpretations, and the history
Cornelius Estate
We had an absolutely wonderful visit with our good friends Rick and Michelle Cornelius and their two young sons, Josh and Jacob. Josh is quite a good 400 runner and Jake is outstanding in Babe Ruth baseball. They both are good looking young men.
The cornelius family has a beautiful historic home on three acres. They are all doing very well. Rick and Michelle and quite involved and proud of the Ashland community. We were treated royally and really appreciate their down home hospitality. Rick makes the best martinis in the western world!
The Mecca-Hayward Field
In Eugene, my first order of business was to return to -Hayward field.
The women’s hurdle team was working out on the field. They gracefully glided over the hurdles, a beautiful sight.
Track and Field may be dying but not in Oregon. It is my absolute favorite sport. I find it more exciting than all the other sports that I love.
Hayward field is even more holy to me than the old Boston Garden and Fenway Park in Boston. This is where Pre ran. Other legends, including Mary Decker and Alberto Salazar still work out on the track. Nowhere is more important to Nike, than Hayward Field.
As youths, both of our boys won National TAC/AAU events on this field.
I stretched and laid out in the infield with my eyes closed.. I could hear the announcer introduce their names and lanes. I could visualize their finishes.
Exciting times.
Hayward field also brought back the memory of golf balls driven by Delta’s “Otter” hitting ROTC cadets and Neidemeyer’s horse on the field scene in National Lampoon’s classic “Animal House” movie that was filmed at U of O. Unfortunately, the Delta house has now been torn down.
This memory brought tears to my eyes.
That was then, Do it now!
With that thought in mind and caught up with the spirit of the moment, El Lobo decided to do an all out 400, tight hamstrings and all.
It was worth the pain. The last time I ran a 400 was on my fourteeth birthday at the UNR track. I spite of a tremendous hangover I was able to break a minute. I did not record my time at the ripe age of fifty four.
I then headed for the OSU book store and purchased a hooded and pouched track sweat
shirt. It is a prized possession.
The very popular Men and Women behaving badly section.
-Who needs a GPS along when you are driving. Gerry started her driving instructions as soon as we left for the Phoenix airport and continued to tell me how to drive for the full 957 miles.
Gerry-For wining about being hungry and cold while she was telling me how to drive and then complaining about how cold it was at Crater Lake. The manly El Lobo wore his sandals in the snow just to get a glimpse of the magnificent lake.
El Lobo-For drinking three beers before the MACBETH performance and having to find the rest room 10 minutes into the performance and then not allowed to return. He was exiled into a room with a television monitor.
Lifting down into Phoenix the surrounding landscape reminded me of kitty litter. I love sunny Arizona but it is not Oregon. I will return in August for a pack with Rick to the Sister’s Wilderness and then in September for a pack with Sawtooth Steve to the Eagle Cap Wilderness in Northeast Oregon. In the short term, I guess the abyss called the “Big Hole” by Chevy Chase will have to do. In the long term we will continue to dream of our retirement in Placerville.
5/13/2002
San Jacinto-Cactus to Clouds
‘To every day, (Turn! Turn! Turn!) there is a season,(Turn, Turn, Turn) and a time to every purpose unto heaven”
Byrds 1/65 (lyrics adapted from the Book of Ecclesiastes)
Que tal,
On Friday evening, my lovely spouse and I were privileged to see a fabulous performance of South Pacific starring Robert Goulet at the Gammage theatre.
This was a time of joy, appreciation and applause.
On Sunday morning, after climbing 10,400’ vertical feet I was high above Palm Springs California, on top of San Jacinto with four good friends.
This was a time of pain, misery and profanity.
Mother of all USA hikes –“Cactus to Clouds”
In the continental USA there is no higher and longer elevation gain in one day than the “Cactus to Clouds” hike. This hike, from the desert floor of Palm Springs to the peak of San Jacinto takes you up a torturous10,400.’ This is the equivalents of climbing up and down Camelback or Squaw Peak ten times only in much higher progressive elevations. It is a 23 mile round trip that we completed in just under twelve hours. When you tack on four plus hours of driving (eight for Hannu) it makes for a very long day.
Dingo, Zo and I met Hannu in Palm Springs late Sunday afternoon. We checked into our hotel and proceeded to the two possible trailheads to scout them out. One is at the end of Ramon road and the other is at the Desert Museum on Museum Drive. Trails from both starting points converge at a saddle.
We elected to begin this epic journey at the Desert Museum where we read a sign that warned- No water on faint trail, beware of rattlesnakes, scorpions and ticks.
Dingo exclaimed “TICKS!!!!!” and sent terror into Hannu’s heart. Five years previous on the Lost Coast trail, Lobo had to burn and cut into Hannu’s posterior to remove several ticks. Hannu and I have become very close since that delicate operation.
The early evening was spent on the patio at the Blue Coyote restaurant, enjoying cervezas and people watching. The Palm Springs main drag is quaint and interesting. The California culture keeps rolling on.
There just happened to be hundreds of lovelies walking by, dressed in their summer pretties. Ahhhhh-Southern California.
The girl watching appeared to motivate the men, and Lobo (Jefe) regarded it as a good thing and did not issue any demerits for dirty old man type behavior. Jefe learned this skill in management school.
After dinner we shuttled Zo’s car to the parking lot at Palm Spring’s Aerial Tram and retired early.
The following morning we got a predawn start with headlamps to avoid some of the heat and ensure daylight on the return. It was close to 80 at 4:15 A.M. We immediately started gaining elevation and were already sweating just steps into the hike. We were treated to a beautiful sunrise from the trail.
The trail to Long Valley is an unending secession of upward-reaching switchbacks in a barren landscape. Nothing appeared to be alive. Hannu would pace back and forth whenever we stopped for a short break.
We were however, blessed with a thick cloud cover to shield the sun.
Eleven miles later, we reached the ranger station at Long Valley (Valley adjacent the Aerial Tram Station at 8600’) in six hours.
From this point you can “bail out” and catch the next tram down to Palm Springs. Hannu did not give us enough time to even think about that option!
Zo, later on admitted sinful thoughts of a early return via the tram.
We acquired our Wilderness permit at the self-service Ranger Station and El Lobo scored a San Jacinto patch much to the group’s chagrin.
We proceeded the next six miles through Round Valley then up a moderately graded trail to San Jacinto peak. A scramble was required to get to the top and in our exhausted condition it was not easy to finally reach this seemingly impossible goal. Dingo Dan literally crawled to the top, but with a big smile on his face. He maintained his good sense of humor all day. I found this to be remarkable. Zo appeared to have lost his sense of humor somewhere between the cactus and the clouds.
The view of the Coachella Valley and surrounding mountain ranges was great. This is an awesome panoramic view.
Drew(ski) greeted us at the top. He had driven up from San Diego that morning and took the first tram up and then hiked the six miles to the peak.
He treated us to cookies and chocolate. Unlike the rest of us, he was energetic and thoroughly enjoying himself. Needless to say, he is the only smart one of the group.
After resting at the top we hiked the six miles back to the Ranger Station and barely had the energy to finish a 300’ climb up to the tram station.
Pic by Drew(ski)
Zo & Dan-2 miles left- “When will it end? I want my mommy”
Hannu treated us to cervezas at the station bar and we took the next tram down to Palm Springs.
Zo, Dan and I arrived back in Phoenix close to midnight. Thanks to Zo for the clutch driving home. An earlier email confirmed that his sense of humor has been restored.
I have no idea what time that stalking animal Hannu arrived in the Bay Area.
Editorial comment:
Perhaps there may be a few Grand Canyon elitists that seem to think the Canyon has an exclusive on harsh, strenuous hiking. Of course the Canyon is tough, but they may want to venture beyond and try this one out. It just might kick their ass.
Men behaving badly
All, except Drew(ski) for exhibiting disgusting behavior from start to finish of this expedition.
All, for cursing at Lobo during the climb for formulating this fun trip.
Jake for being smart enough to stay home, and then when contacted by cell phone while we were laboring on the trail, he flaunted his cool air-conditioned status and the fact that he had doughnuts for breakfast.
John Hofdahl for conveniently taking off to Kona when this outing was scheduled.
Over all I rate this hike a 9.9 due to the challenge it presented and the tenacity demonstrated by all. No one was in the industrial strength condition required to complete this type of outing. Determination, experience, and perhaps the gift of cloud cover got us to the top.
Byrds 1/65 (lyrics adapted from the Book of Ecclesiastes)
Que tal,
On Friday evening, my lovely spouse and I were privileged to see a fabulous performance of South Pacific starring Robert Goulet at the Gammage theatre.
This was a time of joy, appreciation and applause.
On Sunday morning, after climbing 10,400’ vertical feet I was high above Palm Springs California, on top of San Jacinto with four good friends.
This was a time of pain, misery and profanity.
Mother of all USA hikes –“Cactus to Clouds”
In the continental USA there is no higher and longer elevation gain in one day than the “Cactus to Clouds” hike. This hike, from the desert floor of Palm Springs to the peak of San Jacinto takes you up a torturous10,400.’ This is the equivalents of climbing up and down Camelback or Squaw Peak ten times only in much higher progressive elevations. It is a 23 mile round trip that we completed in just under twelve hours. When you tack on four plus hours of driving (eight for Hannu) it makes for a very long day.
Dingo, Zo and I met Hannu in Palm Springs late Sunday afternoon. We checked into our hotel and proceeded to the two possible trailheads to scout them out. One is at the end of Ramon road and the other is at the Desert Museum on Museum Drive. Trails from both starting points converge at a saddle.
We elected to begin this epic journey at the Desert Museum where we read a sign that warned- No water on faint trail, beware of rattlesnakes, scorpions and ticks.
Dingo exclaimed “TICKS!!!!!” and sent terror into Hannu’s heart. Five years previous on the Lost Coast trail, Lobo had to burn and cut into Hannu’s posterior to remove several ticks. Hannu and I have become very close since that delicate operation.
The early evening was spent on the patio at the Blue Coyote restaurant, enjoying cervezas and people watching. The Palm Springs main drag is quaint and interesting. The California culture keeps rolling on.
There just happened to be hundreds of lovelies walking by, dressed in their summer pretties. Ahhhhh-Southern California.
The girl watching appeared to motivate the men, and Lobo (Jefe) regarded it as a good thing and did not issue any demerits for dirty old man type behavior. Jefe learned this skill in management school.
After dinner we shuttled Zo’s car to the parking lot at Palm Spring’s Aerial Tram and retired early.
The following morning we got a predawn start with headlamps to avoid some of the heat and ensure daylight on the return. It was close to 80 at 4:15 A.M. We immediately started gaining elevation and were already sweating just steps into the hike. We were treated to a beautiful sunrise from the trail.
The trail to Long Valley is an unending secession of upward-reaching switchbacks in a barren landscape. Nothing appeared to be alive. Hannu would pace back and forth whenever we stopped for a short break.
We were however, blessed with a thick cloud cover to shield the sun.
Eleven miles later, we reached the ranger station at Long Valley (Valley adjacent the Aerial Tram Station at 8600’) in six hours.
From this point you can “bail out” and catch the next tram down to Palm Springs. Hannu did not give us enough time to even think about that option!
Zo, later on admitted sinful thoughts of a early return via the tram.
We acquired our Wilderness permit at the self-service Ranger Station and El Lobo scored a San Jacinto patch much to the group’s chagrin.
We proceeded the next six miles through Round Valley then up a moderately graded trail to San Jacinto peak. A scramble was required to get to the top and in our exhausted condition it was not easy to finally reach this seemingly impossible goal. Dingo Dan literally crawled to the top, but with a big smile on his face. He maintained his good sense of humor all day. I found this to be remarkable. Zo appeared to have lost his sense of humor somewhere between the cactus and the clouds.
The view of the Coachella Valley and surrounding mountain ranges was great. This is an awesome panoramic view.
Drew(ski) greeted us at the top. He had driven up from San Diego that morning and took the first tram up and then hiked the six miles to the peak.
He treated us to cookies and chocolate. Unlike the rest of us, he was energetic and thoroughly enjoying himself. Needless to say, he is the only smart one of the group.
After resting at the top we hiked the six miles back to the Ranger Station and barely had the energy to finish a 300’ climb up to the tram station.
Pic by Drew(ski)
Zo & Dan-2 miles left- “When will it end? I want my mommy”
Hannu treated us to cervezas at the station bar and we took the next tram down to Palm Springs.
Zo, Dan and I arrived back in Phoenix close to midnight. Thanks to Zo for the clutch driving home. An earlier email confirmed that his sense of humor has been restored.
I have no idea what time that stalking animal Hannu arrived in the Bay Area.
Editorial comment:
Perhaps there may be a few Grand Canyon elitists that seem to think the Canyon has an exclusive on harsh, strenuous hiking. Of course the Canyon is tough, but they may want to venture beyond and try this one out. It just might kick their ass.
Men behaving badly
All, except Drew(ski) for exhibiting disgusting behavior from start to finish of this expedition.
All, for cursing at Lobo during the climb for formulating this fun trip.
Jake for being smart enough to stay home, and then when contacted by cell phone while we were laboring on the trail, he flaunted his cool air-conditioned status and the fact that he had doughnuts for breakfast.
John Hofdahl for conveniently taking off to Kona when this outing was scheduled.
Over all I rate this hike a 9.9 due to the challenge it presented and the tenacity demonstrated by all. No one was in the industrial strength condition required to complete this type of outing. Determination, experience, and perhaps the gift of cloud cover got us to the top.
South Bass to Boucher-Grand Canyon
"Your life is in your canteen, draw it down with a zealous eye."--Gass
Down South Bass-Up the Boucher via the Tonto WestFive days, forty three miles, 10,000' + elevation gain/lossThis hike began at Bass Camp, 28 rough miles of back road west of Grand Canyon Village. Although this site is now isolated, it was once home (built in 1880) to William Wallace Bass and family. Bass was an industrious pioneer of Grand Canyon tourism. Bass introduced adventurous people to the canyon for forty years before selling to the Fred Harvey Company. He built the trail that we would take down close to the river. The Bass camp was demolished in 1937 per the Park Superintendent. The feral mules that created the Tonto trail were eliminated. The Bass corridor has returned to its natural state. All proposals to make it an industrial tourist site has been rejected by the NPS.The expedition group (PIC by Mooseman)Steve (El feo)John (El viento hediondo Grande)Mooseman (El buen)El Lobo (Malos)We started the steep descent at 8:00 A.M. and just before we arrived at the Tonto Junction Steve almost stepped on this poor guy.PIC by MoosemanAt first we thought it was the Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnake but the color was salmon. It has since been identified as the rare Massaugua rattler.After our wildlife observation we headed down the Tonto west where we would trek 28 distant miles to Boucher Creek and then up the killer Boucher trail. The Tonto trail follows the Tonto platform for it's entire length, winding in and out of side canyons with multiple drainage's.The Tonto west is the faintest of paths, hard to follow in places with small stretches that overlook the Colorado.This area (The Jewels) has the reputation of "no man's land" because of limited water and extremely difficult emergency escape routes. Our plan was to stop at Serpentine, Turquoise and Slate Canyons.Backcountry and GCFI had told us that there was water in each of these drainage's. We travelled along the top of Serpentine with much trepidation as we could not see any sources of water below. No water would put us in a decision making process to either make a difficult climb down to the Colorado River or continue on to Turquoise and pray that we would find water at that location.The temperature was in the 80s. Steve, a self proclaimed "water freak," is always after us to carry more water. Why didn't we listen?PorqueAt the very end of Serpentine our anxieties ended with the discovery of several water pockets. (tinjas) That evening while enjoying gourmet freeze dried meals we were startled by a lone hiker that stumbled into our camp in serious need of water. He came in from the East where few travel in that direction. When we asked where he had come from, he replied "Copper Canyon" Copper Canyon was many miles to the East? He said that he had been boiling his water and requested to use our filter? He said he was from Sedona and we thought that he had seen too many vortexes. We gave him a plentiful supply of water and offered our camp to him. He then told us that he was with a group that had done the Royal Arch route. He had left his group behind and missed the turnoff to go up the Bass Trail. He did not have a map. He was insistent about getting back to the Bass turnoff even though there was little day light left. He said that he had a radio and had contacted his party at the top of Bass and they were waiting for him. We gave him explicit directions to the well marked turnoff. He left in a hurry and we all hoped for the best. It seemed like his judgments made him a candidate for update to the Death in the Canyon publication. We started out early the next morning and found water pockets in Turquoise and Slate on subsequent days. We would arrive around 2:00P.M. and have a leisurely afternoon.This section of the Tonto offers it's own set of unique rewards in the form of solitude and the opportunity to experience the canyon's natural rhythms for extended periods of time. PIC by John DA JackalMooseman would usually take up some distance to the front or the rear.In the evenings he would camp a good distance away from the rest of the group. He would spend the afternoons reading "The Man who walked through time" by Colin Fletcher who traversed the Canyon in the early 50s.Perhaps the Mooseman shared the same thoughts that Edward Abbey once articulated: "I find that in contemplating the natural world my pleasure is greater if there are not too many others contemplating it with me at the same time." Or, he thought that he was "The Man who walked through fumes" when he walked too close behind John DA Jackal, perhaps the most prolific windbreaker ever to travel the Canyon.We reached Boucher Creek early Saturday morning and decided to knock out half of our torturous climb up the Boucher and camp on the Redwall close to White's Butte.Louis D. Boucher, the Grand Canyon "hermit" built the trail in the 1890s. Along side Boucher creek he worked a copper mine, built a cabin, planted an orchard and worked a garden. We visited the ruins of his cabin.What a great camp view we had! El Lobo Grande PIC by John DA JackalSunday morning we climbed out and headed for the showers. John and I stopped at the Beaver Street Brewery in Flag for fabulous burgers and brews. This trip was a rewarding experience, thanks to John, Mooseman and Steve for the time we shared. The weather was close to perfect. The trip was well planned and executed. Everyone contributed to it's success.Men Behaving BadlySteve for barking profanities at John and I when we would ask Steve questions in Espanol.John DA Jackal for reading the trails illustrated map countless hours and then asking if the Colorado River was Boucher Creek!!!John DA Jackal for polluting entire side canyons and then pleading"Hey it's the freeze dried food"John DA Jackal for not bringing any deserts and then greedily looking at El Lobo's stash like a hungry coyote.Steve for complaining about the noise El Lobo Grande & John DA Jackal made coming back from the Bright Angel Bar bar late the night before we went hiking.Steve for making his lovely sainted wife Joyce, carry two gallons of water when they go to the movie matinee, and then refusing to spring for any popcorn.Mooseman for acting like an adult the entire trip.Mooseman for being a lightweight farter.El Lobo Grande for consistent bad behavior the entire trip. (After all we were hiking the Tonto (Spanish Translation: silly, foolish) Trail.
Down South Bass-Up the Boucher via the Tonto WestFive days, forty three miles, 10,000' + elevation gain/lossThis hike began at Bass Camp, 28 rough miles of back road west of Grand Canyon Village. Although this site is now isolated, it was once home (built in 1880) to William Wallace Bass and family. Bass was an industrious pioneer of Grand Canyon tourism. Bass introduced adventurous people to the canyon for forty years before selling to the Fred Harvey Company. He built the trail that we would take down close to the river. The Bass camp was demolished in 1937 per the Park Superintendent. The feral mules that created the Tonto trail were eliminated. The Bass corridor has returned to its natural state. All proposals to make it an industrial tourist site has been rejected by the NPS.The expedition group (PIC by Mooseman)Steve (El feo)John (El viento hediondo Grande)Mooseman (El buen)El Lobo (Malos)We started the steep descent at 8:00 A.M. and just before we arrived at the Tonto Junction Steve almost stepped on this poor guy.PIC by MoosemanAt first we thought it was the Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnake but the color was salmon. It has since been identified as the rare Massaugua rattler.After our wildlife observation we headed down the Tonto west where we would trek 28 distant miles to Boucher Creek and then up the killer Boucher trail. The Tonto trail follows the Tonto platform for it's entire length, winding in and out of side canyons with multiple drainage's.The Tonto west is the faintest of paths, hard to follow in places with small stretches that overlook the Colorado.This area (The Jewels) has the reputation of "no man's land" because of limited water and extremely difficult emergency escape routes. Our plan was to stop at Serpentine, Turquoise and Slate Canyons.Backcountry and GCFI had told us that there was water in each of these drainage's. We travelled along the top of Serpentine with much trepidation as we could not see any sources of water below. No water would put us in a decision making process to either make a difficult climb down to the Colorado River or continue on to Turquoise and pray that we would find water at that location.The temperature was in the 80s. Steve, a self proclaimed "water freak," is always after us to carry more water. Why didn't we listen?PorqueAt the very end of Serpentine our anxieties ended with the discovery of several water pockets. (tinjas) That evening while enjoying gourmet freeze dried meals we were startled by a lone hiker that stumbled into our camp in serious need of water. He came in from the East where few travel in that direction. When we asked where he had come from, he replied "Copper Canyon" Copper Canyon was many miles to the East? He said that he had been boiling his water and requested to use our filter? He said he was from Sedona and we thought that he had seen too many vortexes. We gave him a plentiful supply of water and offered our camp to him. He then told us that he was with a group that had done the Royal Arch route. He had left his group behind and missed the turnoff to go up the Bass Trail. He did not have a map. He was insistent about getting back to the Bass turnoff even though there was little day light left. He said that he had a radio and had contacted his party at the top of Bass and they were waiting for him. We gave him explicit directions to the well marked turnoff. He left in a hurry and we all hoped for the best. It seemed like his judgments made him a candidate for update to the Death in the Canyon publication. We started out early the next morning and found water pockets in Turquoise and Slate on subsequent days. We would arrive around 2:00P.M. and have a leisurely afternoon.This section of the Tonto offers it's own set of unique rewards in the form of solitude and the opportunity to experience the canyon's natural rhythms for extended periods of time. PIC by John DA JackalMooseman would usually take up some distance to the front or the rear.In the evenings he would camp a good distance away from the rest of the group. He would spend the afternoons reading "The Man who walked through time" by Colin Fletcher who traversed the Canyon in the early 50s.Perhaps the Mooseman shared the same thoughts that Edward Abbey once articulated: "I find that in contemplating the natural world my pleasure is greater if there are not too many others contemplating it with me at the same time." Or, he thought that he was "The Man who walked through fumes" when he walked too close behind John DA Jackal, perhaps the most prolific windbreaker ever to travel the Canyon.We reached Boucher Creek early Saturday morning and decided to knock out half of our torturous climb up the Boucher and camp on the Redwall close to White's Butte.Louis D. Boucher, the Grand Canyon "hermit" built the trail in the 1890s. Along side Boucher creek he worked a copper mine, built a cabin, planted an orchard and worked a garden. We visited the ruins of his cabin.What a great camp view we had! El Lobo Grande PIC by John DA JackalSunday morning we climbed out and headed for the showers. John and I stopped at the Beaver Street Brewery in Flag for fabulous burgers and brews. This trip was a rewarding experience, thanks to John, Mooseman and Steve for the time we shared. The weather was close to perfect. The trip was well planned and executed. Everyone contributed to it's success.Men Behaving BadlySteve for barking profanities at John and I when we would ask Steve questions in Espanol.John DA Jackal for reading the trails illustrated map countless hours and then asking if the Colorado River was Boucher Creek!!!John DA Jackal for polluting entire side canyons and then pleading"Hey it's the freeze dried food"John DA Jackal for not bringing any deserts and then greedily looking at El Lobo's stash like a hungry coyote.Steve for complaining about the noise El Lobo Grande & John DA Jackal made coming back from the Bright Angel Bar bar late the night before we went hiking.Steve for making his lovely sainted wife Joyce, carry two gallons of water when they go to the movie matinee, and then refusing to spring for any popcorn.Mooseman for acting like an adult the entire trip.Mooseman for being a lightweight farter.El Lobo Grande for consistent bad behavior the entire trip. (After all we were hiking the Tonto (Spanish Translation: silly, foolish) Trail.
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