11/13/2003

Rainbow Bridge-Hiyah!

"Hiyah!""Through rain & wind & weather,Hell bent for leather""Hiyah!"------RawhideSouth Rainbow trail-27 miles round trip-(Requires a Navajo Permit)Rainbow Bridge was recently included in National Geographic's Adventure magazine -"Extreme America - 50-places like nowhere else on Earth."Rainbow Bridge (PIC by ZO)El Lobo has roamed to most of these places but had not hiked into Rainbow. Compulsive behavior required checking this one off the list.Los Vaqueros-Zo (The Good) El Lobo (The Bad) Dingo Dan (The Ugly)This is a spectacular trail through some of the most rugged and magnificent redrock wilderness in the United States, to a world famous 275' natural span-Rainbow Bridge. The trail flanks 10,400' Navajo Mountain, considered sacred by the traditional members of the Navajo Nation. It meanders through extraordinary watery canyons.The tres amigos left Friday evening at 5:00 P.M. and stopped in Flagstaff for dinner. Much later, we were delayed on Navaho Rt. 98 by a fatal crash. A flipped truck lay on the side of the road. Sadly, some did not make it home that night. Such is life on the Rez.. This is not the first time that we have come upon a serious accident on Navajo land on Friday night. We took the dirt Navajo Mountain Road for 33 miles and could not find the fork that would take us to the ruins of the Navajo Lodge where the trail begins. At 1:00 in the morning we threw out our sleeping bags in the desert and crashed.The next morning we got up at first light and jumped back in the SUV in hot pursuit of our destination somewhere in the maze of Navajo back roads.As the sun rose over Navajo Mountain, the theme song from the Good, Bad & the Ugly plugged us into the adventure.With a little light, the Dingo Man with his trusty topo map was able to get us to the ruins.Rainbow Lodge was built in the 30s and provided guided pack trips to the bridge before the flooding of Glen Canyon by Lake Powell. This allowed for boat tours to access to the bridge via the water.Today, there are two types of people that visit the bridge.-The few, that pack it in with the big iron on their hips.(Those that shoot)-The smart, that go by boat and return to cervezas.(Those that talk)At the ruins we enjoyed a mouth watering breakfast of spicy tamales that Zo had bought from a family, outside a gas station in Flagstaff. They were the best ever!We hid some water for a long walk out, (survival) in the event that the vehicle's gas tank was siphoned, or the tires removed. This happens sometimes, as it does elsewhere.We started with heavy packs, each of us carrying in excess of a gallon of water, not expecting to find any along the way as per the "quality" information provided to us by the professionally incompetent Rainbow Bridge National Monument people. Paladin, Paladin Where do you roam?The first five miles we experienced many exhausting ups and downs while crossing the arms of First and Horse Canyons. At Sunset Pass we caught an astounding view of Cliff Canyon, 1600' below. The two mile descent into Cliff is difficult, steep and rocky, but we found the lower reaches to be real purty.Cool Clear WaterAt mile 8 we found flowing springs and several large pools of water. After cursing the knowledgeable volunteers at the National Monument we set up camp in this scenic area. Our original plan was to hike all 13 miles to Lake Powell. Finding water allowed us to day hike (without heavy packs) to the bridge and back the following day.El PasoOur day hike took us over Redbud Pass into extraordinary Redbud Canyon, a slot canyon framed by towering red rock cliffs.Flowing water was plentiful practically the whole distance to the bridge. We stopped at Echo Camp just before Rainbow Bridge, a cowboy camp with two good springs.Cowboy Camp (PIC by ZO)From here it is an easy flat walk to Rainbow Bridge which is carved out of Navajo sandstone, among the largest formations of its kind in the world.Rainbow Bridge (PIC by ZO)At Rainbow Bridge we relaxed and chatted with the tourists who had walked the 1/4 mile from their boat on the lake. You are my sunshineA deadly heat wave had come in and an early start was necessary. The following day we rose at 4:00 a.m. and began the arduous climb, with a full moon providing all the light that we needed. Dingo did an outstanding job of keeping us on course until daylight crept over the ridgeline. Heckel & Jeckel (PIC by ZO)High NoonWe arrived back at the car close to noon, delighted to find Zo's rig intact. We set up our camp chairs, cracked open the cervezas, cranked up the car stereo, and listened to the Spirits of the West.As we passed through Flag we looked for the family selling Tamales but to no avail. We stopped at Busters for dinner.Back in the Saddle AgainWe arrived home Monday evening, in time to see the Red Sox beat the hated Yankees.This was another outstanding adventure with the best of the best. Thanks to Zo for driving. The overall trip rating is a 9.9. We all agreed to return next year and hike the seldom used and extreme North Rainbow trail that starts in Cha Canyon, skirts the North side of Navajo Mountain through Bald Rock, Nasja, and Oak Canyons to the bridge. Hiyah!!!Hombres Actuar Gravemente (Men Behaving Badly Section)-Dingo Dan for badgering El Lobo to tutor him on naughty Spanish words. El Lobo had just happened to pick up a copy of "Street Spanish" only to develop a better appreciation for exactly how colorful the Spanish language truly is.-ZO for again flaunting his gear. This time he was sporting a new REI rainproof, wind resistant light jacket.-Zo & Dingo Dan, AKA "The Rainier Boys," who had gotten soft since their Rainier summit and stopped frequently, acting like they were just enjoying the view. They then accused El Lobo of enjoying their pain and kicking their young asses on the climb out.-Dingo Dan for listening to "The Hanging Tree" over and over and over again.-Zo and Dingo Dan for whining about El Lobo's consumption of tuna and subsequent Happy Trails lethal gas attacks.Don't fence me in--

10/15/2003

Rolling Stones

“Time is on my side, yes it is”

The “Forty Licks” tour stop in Phoenix was one of the mothers of all concerts that I have attended (#422) and Mother’s Little Helpers were focused and near perfect. Rolling Stones concerts have been called the greatest show on earth and I agree. Clearly, Mick Jagger is the best front man that the business has seen, and many consider the Stones the greatest Rock and Roll Band of all time. Others would argue that Led Zeppelin deserves that honor but my vote goes to the Stones.

The British group was formed when I was a sophomore in high school—and getting no satisfaction. Two years later “ I Can’t Get No Satisfaction” became the Stones’ first number one hit and an anthem for all young frustrated guys.

The Rolling Stones, who were heavily influenced by American rhythm and blues, took their name from a Muddy Waters’ song. The guys were the original “bad boys” of Rock and Roll.

The Rolling Stones were woven into the fabric of my misspent youth. There are so many memories, such as returning from a draft physical in Oakland on a bus filled with Reno boys. Ralph Gabrazano had his portable radio cranked up to “Paint it Black”
Every guy on the bus was singing (screaming) and beating their hands on the seats in tune with the music. When my girl friend dumped on me I would silently hum “Don’t play with me cause your playing with fire.”

Forty years later my concert partner and mate, Gerry, are at America West Arena seeing them in concert. Remarkable!
Forty years and forty albums released. Eight number one hits!
Mick Jagger, Keith Richard, and Charlie Watts were there from the beginning. Mick and Keith are both pushing 60. Ron Wood has been a Stone for thirty years. Original band member Brian Jones was found dead in his swimming pool in 1969. The official coroner’s report listed his death as a result of “misadventure.”

In the 60s, before they appeared on his show, Ed Sullivan ordered Mick Jagger to sing “Lets spend some time together” instead of the original lyric “Lets spend the night together.”
At a free concert at Altamount Speedway in California, a nightmarish murder committed by Hell’s Angels hired as security guards occurred in front of the stage while the group played “Sympathy for the Devil.”

Over the years there has been a long list of drug busts. But things have changed. The bad boys are focused and solid. They are filling arenas wherever they go and have amassed enough wealth to be on the cover of Fortune magazine.
Tickets to see the legends were expensive. But like a birder wanting a rare bird sighting for his lifelong list, El Lobo needed this rare gem for his lifelong concert list. So we paid the price. And it was worth every penny!
This concert at America West Arena has been sold out for months. The lights went out and thousands of red and blue battery powered flashing tongue pins filled the arena. Mick and Keith opened the show with Street Fighting Man. The roar was deafening.

The ageless Jagger pranced throughout the show. Gerry commented that he moved like a man 35 years younger. He started the show wearing a blue jacket and ended in tank top. He demonstrated incredible fitness while he danced and flung his wiry body and well sculpted arms around. The show was astronomical energy from start to finish. Keith Richards smiled throughout the performance and all band members seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their work. Their timeless sound was superb.

The first part of the show they played mostly new stuff, including their latest single release “Don’t Stop.” It went down real smooth. The second part was all about old classics. We really enjoyed their upbeat version of Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone”
They finished with “Jumpin Jack Flash, and by this time the crowd of, mostly, bad boys and girls in their 30s 40s and 50s, were in a frenzy. We would have liked to hear more of their old classics but they could play only a fraction in the terrific two hours that they played. The four old friends who have sustained their close relationship took numerous curtain calls for the appreciative crowd.

This was an alcohol free concert for Ger and I (the limitations of our diets and fitness regimen). We agreed that we would not let that happen again. Therefore it would be hard to rate this concert compared to the other 441 that I have seen that were far from alcohol free. It is definitely in my top 10.

Thanks for the gifts, guys, I can’t imagine this life’s journey without the Stones.

“I know it’s only Rock and Roll, but I like it” sums up it all up.

“Don’t stop!”

Veteran Cosmic Rocker

Kelly & Pumphouse Wash Canyons

Caving without roofs-Kelly & Pumphouse Wash Canyons-

I love wild canyons,--dry fragrant, stone walled, with their greenchoked-niches and gold tipped ramparts.Zane GreyUSA Weekend featured Sissy Sedona as their number one pick of our country'sten most beautiful spots. Although I am not in agreement with theirselection(s) I do think that the surrounding area's telegenic canyons arespecial. That is why we returned to the canyons of the Mogollon Rim forthe third time in the past month.Excursionistas DE canonDingo DanEl LoboZoWell fed, pampered "I can't go" guysJohn DA JackalJake DA snakeDingo Dan put together a plan to explore two of the three major headwatercanyons of Oak Creek--Kelly and Pumphouse. The third, James Canyon requiresrappelling and swimming. It is best suited for much warmer weather, as thedeep dark pools are icy cold.Our route involved shuttling two vehicles.Kelly Canyon was an easy walk along a game trail through most of thecanyon. Dingo and Dan practiced climbing on various limestone rock faces.It is a nice four mile walk, along old growth ponderosa pines, firs andaspens.(Embedded image moved to file: pic24010.jpg)Kelly Canyon-PIC by ZoPumphouse Wash offers a bit more of a challenge. Pumphouse is essentiallyupper Oak Creek Canyon. We had a boulder hop for about the first two milesbefore coming to a 15 foot waterfall and large pool below it. A dead Elkwas submerged in the pool. This is the second weekend in a row that we havecome upon a dead elk in water.(Embedded image moved to file: pic23325.jpg)One of many pools-PIC by ZoAbout 1/2 mile below the falls, James Canyon comes in from the West.Here the canyon deepens, with sheer rock faces of Coconino sandstone, firand maple trees covering the slopes. This contrast creates a scenic, lush,backdrop. A variety of colorful butterflies added to the splendor.We came across numerous pools, alive with frogs, and a water snake. We wereable to climb on the shelf around most of them, but a couple requiredwading. The water was so cold that it numbed my entire body. You would notlast long in these pools. We will bring wet suits when we do James.We came into a section of slot narrows and climbed along the top.(Embedded image moved to file: pic06754.jpg)Slot Narrows-PIC by ZoZo spotted a couple of owls on a dead tree branch. This was quite asurprise as these magnificent creatures are nocturnal.(Embedded image moved to file: pic19243.jpg)Hooters-PIC by ZOAfter five miles through Pumphouse, we came out on Highway 89A close to oneof our shuttled vehicles, and drove to the second vehicle parked nine milessouth of Flag. Here we set up our customary PUB with camp chairs andenjoyed a few Pacificos.We drove back to Phoenix and had dinner with Gerry and my good friend JohnKing at Carlsbad Tavern, a New Mexican restaurant.John was visiting from Walnut Creek and participating in a Masters swimmeet at ASU. The food and company were estupendo!Men Behaving Badly:El Lobo for trying to stiff the national government out of the Red Rockparking permit. ( because it's a Republican administration)Zo for whining, I can't do that, I might fall into the water and get mycamera wet.Dingo for thinking he is a world class climber but can only climb up threefeet and then fall to the ground with exhausted arms.Dingo for forgetting his socks in the shuttle vehicle, borrowing Lobosextra pair, wearing them all day and then throwing the sweaty, mud soaked,smelly gross items in Lobo's lap, saying "here, sniff these!"Dingo for being paranoid that "the mighty wind" might blow in his wife'scar. He repeated and whined several times, "Now don't do it in Jean's car,she warned me, and I don't want to get in trouble!"

10/13/2003

Rincons-Tucson

"There are two types of people in this world. Those that have guns, andthose that dig."Blondie (The Good- Clint Eastwood) to Tuco (The Ugly -Eli Wallich) in thegraveyard.Que pasa amigos,Como estas tu?February and March are primo Arizona months. The weather is absolutelyperfect for an outside adventure.The young hombres were getting a little soft around the middle andrequested that El Lobo plan a challenging viaje. El hijo, Jacobo, amigoLorennzo and Lobo departed for the Old Pueblo (Tucson) temprano las cuatroy treinta de la manana (very early) for what would be a long day.A bald eagle has been nesting just outside of Tucson and two jaguars wererecently sighted and filmed south of town. We spotted a cardinal and acoyote on the way to the trailhead.We started our trek at the Tanque Verde trailhead in Saguaro National Parkand for seven hours followed the strenuous and sometimes torturous routefollowing Tanque Verde ridge to 7049-foot Tanque Verde Peak. We logged 18miles and close to 10,000 feet of elevation gain/loss. Mucho dulce-(Kit KatBars and Snickers) were consumed to take the painful edge off the trip.Along the way the trail winds among tall saguaros, climbs wildflower dottedslopes, and passes through delightful forests of oak, pinyon and juniper. Iabsolutely love this blend of ecosystems! We passed through beautifulJuniper Basin Campground (5900') where there were several pockets of water.This would be a superb spot for an overnight. There were only small patchesof snow along the higher elevations unlike the Rincon Peak hike last yearat this time where we had to plow through waste high powder for the last ½mile to the summit.Tanque Verde Peak requires a bit of a tricky climb the last 20 feet, butaffords a commanding view of Tucson and the Rincon Mountains back-country.Included in this 360 degree panoramic view are the Santa Rita and HuachucaMountains, the little Rincons, the Galiuro and Santa Catalina Mountains andthe city of Tucson.The climb back to the trailhead was arduous but both Jacobo and Zo arestrong hikers and we made excellent time. The Pacifico cervezas at Zo'scarro were excellente treatment for our sore and tired feet.The Rincons offer a wonderful remote back-country experience, close to ametropolitan area. I rate this hike a solid 9.The hike was only half the adventure as we stopped in the Old HotelCongress in downtown on our way to El Minuto for dinner. In the spirit ofadventure, Lobo changed into his cowboy attire.The Old Congress is really a funky enjoyable historic establishment.John Dillinger was apprehended in this hotel. The atmosphere is one out ofthe 40s.The eclectic, crowded bar served Schlitz, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Old Style.The cliental was something similar to the characters in the Star Wars barscene or those that frequent Warsaw Wally's in downtown Phoenix.We made numerous friends, one being Gerine, a Supai woman that many yearsago, demonstrated great courage and left the land of blue/green waterfallsin the Grand Canyon to get an education at the U of A.She requested R E S P E C T by Aretha on the jukebox filled with fineselections. Sadly, she left the reservation for a better life andapparently spends much time wasted at the Old Congress bar.In the corner of the bar, one gentleman gave us hard looks and continuouslygrowled like a wild animal.Bobby, a Russian immigrant was drinking beer glass size tumblers of Vodkaand humming a Rusky classic.When informed that "El Lobo Grande" was present, the bar managerresponded with an impressed "No shit!" A couple of Hell's Angels hoistedtheir glasses for a toast.It was fun!If you are in Tucson don't miss this slice of diverse life. You won't findit in a five star hotel.It was years ago when Gerry and I stayed in the same Hotel, when we weregiven a tip from locals in the bar about El Minuto, the best Mexicanrestaurant in the Universe. An establishment where you will have a hardtime finding touristas.Since that time I don't miss a meal at El Minuto when I am close to the OldPueblo. Saturday evening was no exception, as the three of us greedilydevoured the tasty specials and superb margaritas. After dinner we visiteda religious shrine next door.Tres hombres arrived back in Phoenix en tarde but safe, thanks to Lorenzo,road warrior extraordinaire. The trip and company was excellent, Ithorougly enjoyed the time we shared.Adventure rating 9.9
The very popularMEN BEHAVING BADLY SECTIONEl Lobo, busted at the trailhead by a ranger for merely marking histerritory.Jacobo, constantly upsetting the serenity on the trail by yellingGEEEEZZ when his keen sense of smell detected an odorous wind.Jacobo, at mile 17, promising himself to never hike again. At least he quitat the end of the hike and not ½ way like Steve Yahner, at Nankoweep GrandCanyon.Lorenzo, making large cat type sounds on the trail after weak emissions.Question:
Where's Steve?Answer: Napping in Scottsdale after a huge breakfast of Jimmy Dean's purepork sausage.

Indian Maid Route-Grand Canyon

Like a Rock, I’m going to roll over you”
Rock N’ Roll over you-Moody Blues –1986



Indian Maid Route (rim to Little Colorado)
Estimated distance: 1 mile. Total estimated elevation gain: 2000 feet

Be afraid, be very afraid.
After a good night of climbing at the Phoenix Rock Gym, Zo Dingo and I met at our Tempe after climb hang out. Over margaritas and cervezas we worked out the final details for our Saturday adventure trip to the Little Colorado River Gorge at the Grand Canyon .In December, Dingo had climbed the Indian Maid route down cliffs and through cracks with a couple of Grand Canyon warriors. He was confident that he could negotiate the maze of back roads on the Navajo reservation, locate our entry point and find the passage to the river. Zo was enthusiastic. The posted cerveza special for Sabado was Rolling Rock. This was not a good sign.
I was concerned, very concerned. After all, this looked like a class five free climb with no safety devices. The pictures and the description clearly reflected a very steep, dangerous, route with much potential for rock fall and exposure. In addition, this drop drains a large area on the mesa top when rain could turn the passage into a flash flood death trap.

Why was I going? I had cashed in my chips and gotten out of the business of extreme canyoneering. This adrenaline junkie went through treatment and was cured.
Needing a little comfort, I went home and wolved down two large pieces of chocolate cake and an ice cream sandwich before going to bed. Those guys are crazy! I’m not going.
We left my house Sabada manana at five A.M. equipped with four Jerky Boys CDs.
It would be a long ride and needed some intellectual stimulation. Personal growth is always a side benefit on these trips.
After three hours we were slowly driving through a thick layer of fog on Highway 89. This was not a good sign. Fifteen miles into the Navajo outback, visibility was zero and we did not have a clue as to our location. And then, Wallah! The fog lifted and we had a magnificent view of the snow capped rim. This was a good sign! Or, was it? The snow on the rim probably meant wet rock below.
We passed a Hogan, Dingo recognized the landmarks and was able to follow his road log to the point of entry.
We walked down a dry wash and reached a steep pour off. I looked down the 500’ sheer drop off and casually screamed “ No *@**&%ing way! The Dingo man just smiled and headed West to a steep narrow crack. Zo gleefully followed. Here we descended into the abyss. All the rock was crumbly and you could not trust any hand holds or foot plants. The crack gradually widened where we down climbed over rubble and boulders through steep ravines. We constantly heard falling rock sounds. We descended long and safe distances apart, but as careful as we were, each of us dislodged dangerous boulders that crashed below.
We found some interesting petroglyphs and pot shards on the Coconino layer.
With the benefit of Dingo’s route experience, it took us just two hours to reach the LCR. ( Little Colorado River) It had taken Dingo and his group four hours in December.
The river was running thick with silt and mud from recent rains and looked like gooey Hershey’s chocolate syrup.
We took a break for lunch and took in the solitude in this stark environment. The LCR Gorge is sixty miles from Cameron to the confluence with the Colorado. We were in the middle section. I know of a few that have packed through the gorge.
It is a long lonely journey dealing with quicksand and water issues. Blue Springs is about ten miles down stream. The water there is salty but filterable.

Sala, si usted puede (Get out, if you can)


Dingo and Zo wanted to do a little exploration down stream but they indulged my desire to return without delay. Although physically a lot more demanding, the climb out went smoothly and was a lot of fun. Having route knowledge and in better climbing control went a long ways towards having fun. It took us less than two hours to climb out, again half the time that it took the previous group.

Our cerveza celebration at the rim quickly ended when a couple of Navajos came out of now where in an all terrain vehicle. They were not happy and wanted to know what we were doing there. When we told them that we had climbed down to the river, they looked at us in disbelief. When I mentioned the Indian Maid route they told us we were lost.
They said that over the years they had seen some cars on the rim in Marble canyon and could not understand what anyone would be doing down there.
Once they were convinced that we were not rustling their livestock, they relaxed a bit, and then bid us a friendly farewell. They sped off in search of a lost cow.
On the way out we saw a huge herd of sheep and the attendant sheep herding dog.
The dog saw our vehicle and immediately set chase to escort us away from the herd. Good boy!
We stopped for dinner at Black Canyon City at a café famous for their pie and arrived at my house close to 8:00 P.M.
I rate this adventure a solid 10. It was well planned and executed. Thanks to Dingo and Zo for the time we shared, there are not two better guys to explore with.

Men Behaving Badly:

Dingo Dan for wearing the same Hawaiian dirt shirt and Islands baseball cap yet again. (532 straight outings)
Dingo Dan for again excitedly reminiscing about another old kinky girlfriend.
Dingo Dan for getting very excited when he saw the herd of sheep.
Zo for wearing “girlie” tights under his hiking pants
Zo for his insensitive remark “Lobo you are one rotten dude”
Lobo for his tremendous wind breaking virtuosity in the crack.

Hopi Salt Trail

Hopi Salt Trail-Grand Canyon


“The longing to be primitive is a disease of culture”.
George Santayana


Hopi Salt Trail-Grand Canyon- Rim to the LCR (Little Colorado River-- Approximately ten miles R/T and 6000’ elevation gain/loss. Access to the trailhead is on the Navajo Reservation and thereby requires a Navajo permit. Finding the trailhead can be a challenge with the maze of side roads. It is 21 miles from Cedar Ridge and you must follow the road log very carefully.
The Salt trail is more of a route than a trail and in some sections it becomes a steep descent requiring some down climbing. The route is well marked with cairns but it is very rough and time consuming.

Cast of characters: (Men behaving badly)

Dingo Dan
Jake the Snake
John DA Jackal
El Lobo Grande
Zo


Now that Spring training is over it is time for some serious canyoneering.

We left Saturday afternoon for the destination of the legendary Hopi Salt Trail to investigate a myth.
When you think of a historical Indian trail you may think of the Inca Trail in South America. Unlike the heavily used Inca Trail, few know of the Hopi Trail and fewer have traveled it. Some locals make the journey when they are on a ritual quest for salt. According to the belief of some Third Mesa Villages, the Grand Canyon contains not only sacred salt beds and shrines but also “Sipapu” the center of creation, or place where humans emerged.

We wanted to investigate the myth.

This group has a routine when we hike the canyon. We stop at Flagstaff for dinner at the Beaver Street Brewery and camp at the Cameron trading Post in one of their beautiful rooms.

In Flag, a beautifully painted George Mancuso memorial on the side of a building, got our attention. George Mancuso was a photographer and Grand Canyon explorer that was killed by a flash flood last year in the next canyon over from the Salt Canyon. About eight years ago he was featured on the cover of Backpacker magazine as a warrior of the Canyon.

At Beaver Street we enjoyed a great dinner and slammed down several Microbrews while we watched (with mixed feeling) the NCAA basketball tournament and numero uno seed University of Arizona go down to Kansas.

The Little Colorado was flowing heavily at Cameron. This meant that our destination at the river would look like thick chocolate syrup flowing instead of the mineralized spectacular blue green water that flows from the Springs.

The following morning:

We finished breakfast at 6:30 A.M. at the Trading Post and headed for Cedar Ridge. We had no problems negotiating the back roads and started on the trail (route) at 8:00 A.M.
The initial descent was steep with some exposure. The Canyon walls however blocked out the lethal sun through the Coconino until we almost reached the canyon floor. It was perfect hiking weather and there was not a cloud in the sky. Potholes were filled with water from recent rains.
The route stayed on ledges through the Supai. It dropped steeply into a drainage at the top of the Redwall and climbed steeply out the other side. We easily located the descent through the break in the Redwall. It was marked with two large cairns. The trail stays above the bottom of the canyon until the river. We arrived at the Little Colorado at 11:00 A.M. three hours after starting.

Brown Sugar

The river was indeed, flowing milk chocolate. We had talked about trekking over to the next canyon to where George had met his fate, but decided against it due to the heavy flow that created a time consuming difficulty factor. We enjoyed a lunch on the beach and relaxed for an hour before starting back up.
We were now totally exposed to the sun and the climb was laborious. Thoughts of our people in Iraq drifted in and out of my head. With that in mind, the climb didn’t seem so difficult.
The views, cool breezes and the water that some had frozen the night before provided relief to the arduous grind. We were out in a little over three hours.

On the rim we celebrated life and our freedom with a cooler full of fine cervezas. John cranked up the Rolling Stones on the stereo while Jacobo, Zo, and Dingo relaxed in camp chairs. John brought baseball gloves and a ball and we played catch on the rim. I have never played catch in a more beautiful setting nor enjoyed it as much. We all appreciated our comradery and the time we had shared together.
Perhaps we had found Sipapu after all.

Overall I rate this adventure as a 9.9. There are not better people than mi amigos to do these adventures with. Thanks to all and particularly John for driving.

Men Behaving Badly:

John Da Jackal, for his thunderous outbursts and trying to kill us with his own brand of lethal gas.
ZO, for flaunting his gear. A declared minimalist that always comes hiking with all the latest and greatest.
Dingo Dan, for finally not wearing the same Hawaian Dirt Shirt for a record 5, 255th time. However his replacement of a Telecom shirt with a picture of a chicken with it’s head cut off gets him a gold star for not flaunting his gear like Zo.
John Da Jackal, for drinking all my Moosehead.
Jake the Snake, for telling stories about “the Doobs” (an old girlfriend of his friend Giddy) and her prolific wind breaking virtuosity.

Buffalo River Arkansas

“Take my hand in yours, walk with me this day, in my heart I know, I will never stray”
Neil Diamond- Brother Love’s Traveling Salvation Show-2/69


Hey Bubba,

Just returned from the Ozarks in Arkansas, where folks pack up the babies, grab the old ladies and head for the revival. This is where you consider a six pack of beer and a bug zapper to be quality entertainment.

After landing in Little Rock, I turned my car rental’s radio to one of the many cryin and dyin stations and headed for the Zig Zagg mountains and Hot Springs National Park. Hot Springs was the child hood home of Bubba Clinton. This was our first National Park and unusual in that it is a blend of highly developed park in a small city. It is number 43 of our 54 US National Parks that I plan to visit in my lifetime.
After visiting historic bathhouse row, I returned to Little Rock and found myself a $30 minus five star motel room with a biker bar located conveniently down the street. The Buffalo River, the next day’s driving destination is located in a dry county so the biker bar was my best shot at a beer.
It seemed like a good opportunity to take in some of the local culture and discuss ecosystem protection with the boys.
This establishment had an impressive Confederate flag that spanned the length of the building. I ordered a local beer (BUD) from the bartender, but apparently I needed to be screened, and qualify for service. “You just passin through, son? You ain’t one of those Yankees are ya?” After explaining that I was from Arizona, not a state, but a territory during the civil war, I still did not have my beer. However, when I explained that I was going to a family reunion and viewed it as a great chance to meet some girls, I was finally served.
The next day I headed for the Buffalo River where I would do some volunteer work for the National Park Service, and spend some time fly fishing, hiking and canoeing the River. The Buffalo National River is one of the few remaining unpolluted, free flowing rivers in the lower 48 states. The Buffalo originates as a trickle in the Boston Mountains. It drops steadily for 132 miles to it confluence with the White River.

I stopped for gas at the wonderful hamlet of Toad Suck on the way. It took a half- hour to pump $2.00 worth of gas.. The attendant told me that the pump was not workin so good. A young fellow driving a low rider 1972 Pontiac, drove up. Bullet holes riddled the hood and windshield of the car. Since it would take me another hour to fill the tank, I had plenty of time to chat with him, and he told me that the car used to be his daddy’s but his daddy was now with the lord. He also told me that he had lost his three dogs when the family porch collapsed and killed them.

The frequent road kills along highway 65 included several dogs and cats that made it a more scenic route. I stopped at Wal Mart in the Metropolis of Harrison to pick up some stove fuel. Camouflaged style clothing appeared to be the attire of choice by the shoppers. Displayed on a mannequin was matching green camouflaged bra and panties on sale for $15.00. I seriously thought of gifting a set to my wild woman but was not in the extravagant mood.

I camped at the Tyler Bend Campgrounds, the group next to me woke me up with a prayer meeting at 11:00 that night. The Tyler Bend Visitor Center is a very nice facility and the area is absolutely gorgeous. The fall colors had just started but already were brilliant.
In between building some trail steps and clearing some of the Park’s trails I took the opportunity to drive some of the Ozark’ s back-roads and see some of the historic cabins built by early settlers. Many families have multiple generations in the area. (This is where some folk’s family tree mayt be a straight line) The NPS leader, Zed was a fifth generation resident.
The Ghost town of Rush, where zinc ore was mined in the late 1800s was particularly interesting and included several well preserved structures. During my visit I saw an abundance of wildlife that included elk, wild turkeys, beavers, white tailed deer, armadillos, opossums, and raccoons. In the evening several skunks with long white tails visited my camp. The fishing was very good, the Buffalo contains long pools and I caught several large mouth bass and catfish.
The hiking in the surrounding thick forests of Oak and Hickory offered wild mountain beauty and was easy walking on the fallen leaves. Hiking the trails in this area took me back in time to an era when the natural and cultural world, were one.
I did have some anxious moments when I lost my trail in the dense forest. This spur trail was not on my Trails Illustrated Map and I had difficulty back tracking.. The only sound that I could hear was blood curdling howls from hound dogs in the distance. The sounds seemed to get closer and closer and I felt like an escaped prisoner being tracked down. I used my compass and was able to find a back-road and followed that back to Rush.


"Now let's you just drop them pants."
Don Job-Deliverance- 1972

The highlight of the trip was a twenty mile canoe trip down a stretch of the Buffalo. I started this part of the adventure with thoughts of mountain men with sodomy on their minds. My partner on this float was Stan. (Da Man) Stan is a 75 year old retired chemist from Yugoslavia. He was also helping the NPS with trail work. He is just a delightful guy and I thoroughly enjoyed his company. Stan is a worrier and worried when we were in shallow water that we would get stuck and have to portage the canoe. When we were in deep water he would worry that we would fall out. “I would not like to fall out here” was voiced several times.
We did not meet up with any weird mountain men and saw absolutely no one. We enjoyed total serenity and solitude down the River that cuts its way through massive limestone buffs. Our isolation and the wildness became dramatized by side trips into a number of hollows flanking the river. We were later told that these served as guerilla hideouts during the civil war.
After the trip Stan was a real happy guy –“I think we did good”.
I just love the guy. He lives in up state New York.

Men Behaving Badly

Bubba Clinton-It’s no wonder he developed dysfunctional behaviors growing up in these parts!

This was a fabulous adventure, a real slice of life. I rate this trip a 10++++ Arkansas may be a little different to some of us, but the state’s natural beauty will take your breath away. Touring Arkansas completes El Lobo’s USA 50 state roam. I would like to do the same in Mexico and Canada.

Now, let me leave you with a little down home foot stompin verse.

Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
And he played upon his banjo, coonie in the holler

What do you think old Sukie had for supper
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
Chicken foot, sparrow grass and apple butter


Consider cheap retirement in the Ozarks!!

10/11/2003

To Extremes

“To really live, you must almost die”
Frankie Laine-The Hanging Tree


Little Colorado River Gorge
Blue Spring-1 Mile- 2200’ Drop-A steep route with big exposure into an incredible gorge

Escaladores:

Dingo Dan
El Lobo Grande
Zo

Start: 4:00 A.M. December 21
Finish: Midnight December 22
Elapsed time-20 hours


After 7 hours of driving, including 3 ½ hours on the maze of back roads on the Navajo Reservation, we arrived at our descent point. Along the way we caught a glimpse of a herd of pronghorn antelopes racing over the ridgeline. Too Cool!

Horizons turn Inward

This steep route is an unprotected scramble/free climb into the Little Colorado River Gorge, to Blue Spring, the source of the little Colorado’s azure blue flow. The exposure is huge; you must be totally focused on your moves in a number of areas. If you have a fear of heights, this isn’t the place to be.


Blue Cathedral

We arrived at the bottom in two hours to find the bluest of blue waters gushing out of the river’s left bank of Redwall limestone.


The climb out was difficult but went reasonably well. The ascent took two hours. We set up our camp chairs on the rim and enjoyed our traditional cervezas. Fosters! That's Australian for beer!

We allowed too much time to elapse and were challenged to find our way through the maze of back roads in the dark. Dingo did a stellar job of getting us out of there.

In Flag, we stopped at the Beaver Street Brewery for Burgers and mas cervezas, then home.

This was another fabulous adventure with the best of the best. Trip rating, a solid 10.

Men Behaving Badly:

Zo: For thinking that he left his cell phone on the bumper of the SUV, when it was actually in his pack. Time lost -15 minutes searching the freeway for it.

Arizona Highway Patrolman: For giving pobrito Dingo Dan a ticket for merely speeding 33 miles over the speed limit. Time lost 15 minutes

Dingo Dan, always the explorer, for insisting on crossing the river over Lobo’s objections, getting his shoes soaked, which added to his jeopardy on the climb out.

Dingo Dan: For screaming into the gorge after getting out: “You tried to F*#K us, but we beat you!

Mooseman: For being a no show.

El Lobo Grande: For flaunting his gear, sporting a new REI hydration pack, convertible pants, and REI 1 windproof waterproof gloves.

Dingo Dan: For bragging about giving his wife backrubs.

Dingo Dan: For enjoying his hike up Syphon Draw with Jacobo a little too much. (the day before) Dingo kept mentioning how the two of them enjoyed watching the beautiful clouds together?

Women Behaving Badly

Shoppers (for their husbands) in REI that want to see every knife in the case and want to have every tool explained on a large Swiss Army Knife.
Two of them wanted the same knife, got into a fight, and the victor ran off with the prize. The loser then turned on El Lobo and blamed him for letting the other shopper take the last knife.

8/13/2003

Crown Jewel of The Rubies

"Sometimes I think it's a shame, when I get feeling better when I'm feeling no pain"Sundown-Gordon Lightfoot 4/74

Ruby Mountains NevadaSoldier Creek day hikeLamoille Lake, Box Canyon, Echo Lake cross-country backpack22,000 vertical feet of elevation gain and lossRating-10+It was not supposed to be that way. Our original plans were to do a short pack into a remote lake, and spend a couple of days fishing and relaxing. It didn't happen.On the road againAfter a thirteen hour drive primarily through the Great Basin of the Sagebrush State, we arrived at the Pine Lodge in Lamoille, 20 miles from Elko Nevada.Lamoille sits at the mouth of a canyon, with a cottonwood-shaded park, a white steepled church and groomed dirt lanes. The rugged Ruby Mountains, raw and pure, frame this hamlet. Unlike most Nevada Mountain ranges, the Rubies are lush and alpine, resembling the Sierras or Rockies. This 100-mile-long range has10 glaciered peaks topping 10,000 feet. The Rubies are honeycombed with broad canyons and hanging valleys. Cascading streams and alpine lakes are found throughout this lush terrain. I'll be watching youA sign at the Pine Lodge bar advertised "Hangovers installed and serviced". A cowgirl sitting at the bar was wearing a T-shirt that made the statement: "The liver is an evil organ. Punish it! Die trying."Ted Nugent and Richard Gere were guests last year at this 1940s hunter's lodge where bears, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, badgers, and deer watched the celebs from their places on the walls.Steaks and seafood are served in the restaurant.Not wanting to be stared at by the dead animals, we opted to dine at the "Stray Dog" in downtown Elko.The unknown soldierThe following day as we drove through isolated but lush cowboy country, we were stopped by a herd of cattle crossing the road. After consulting with the rancher we determined that we had missed our back road turnoff to Soldier Creek and we backtracked. Soldier Creek was a nice ten mile day hike. Along the swift tumbling Soldier Creek, we passed corn lilies, bluebells, wallflowers and swamp onion, and were accompanied by the strong scent of mint and sage. A very large Diamondback Rattlesnake crossed our path. Afternoon thundershowers and lightning quickened our pace back to the trailhead.We enjoyed a seven course Basque dinner at the famous Star restaurant and Lorenzo was introduced to picon punches, a potent concoction. Mountain's HighThe next day, carrying heavy packs we set out on the Ruby Crest National Trail for two miles to Lamoille Lake and then headed cross country over a high saddle into box canyon. Lamoille Lake (Pic by Zo)The steep climb went up 800 feet in about an eighth of a mile. We then climbed down into lush Box Canyon and followed a cascading creek down to where we thought would be our best route to climb into Echo Lake, the isolated crown jewel of the Rubies. A storm had blown in and we were stung by hail and then soaked with rain. (Pic by Zo)The 2000' mile long climb was painful, it taxed us both physically and mentally. The joy of arriving at the top quickly turned to frustration as we had overshot our lake and the climb down was dangerously steep. We had no choice but to retreat down the way we came, cursing and promising to never carry a heavy pack again. Colors everywhereHalfway down our misery was temporarily dispelled by a gorgeous rainbow that started and ended on the walls of the box canyon, perfectly framing it.Wet and exhausted, we set up camp in the dark next to a series of waterfalls, vowing to never hike again. I performed surgery on some serious heel blisters.(Pic by Zo)Morning has brokenThe next morning, my idea of the day was to sit around read and fish. Jake, with renewed energy and adrenaline, complained that plan would be boring and wanted to go for a hike. I foolishly suggested that we take another run at Echo. After much study of our topo, Lorenzo was confident that he had located a climb that would go. So we started uphill again but this time without 50 lb. packs. Even without packs we were sucking wind. Upon arrival we were blown away by the raw beauty of this bluer than blue, glaciered lake perched in a granite bowl. The elusive Echo Lake (Pic by Zo)Here we relaxed, and took in nature at it's best.Goin up the countryThe climb out the next day was laborious and particularly painful since Jake strode effortlessly while taking great pleasure in kicking our sorry asses. Slow down Jake!!! (Pic by Zo)This is the same guy who always complains about outings that are too challenging, not needing to test his body and soul, always taking the mentally healthy high ground.At Lamoille canyon we set up our camp chairs and nursed our wounds with antiseptic and cervezas. Back at the RanchWe camped at the Stockmen's Hotel in downtown Elko. Always interested in the local culture, we walked around the Casino. An old cowboy at the bar, missing a few teeth, provided some useful information.Cowboy: You and the boys lookin for some p&*%y? Lobo: Not tonight , but thank you for asking.Cowboy: Welllll, if you change your mind, the cat houses are justaround the corner.Lobo: Awww, your pullin my leg!.Cowboy: Nope, the one in Wells is better, though.Lobo: A friend of mine got beat up by a couple of guys with pool sticks a few years ago. I think that it happened at that establishment.Cowboy: That happens sometimes. Well, I reckon I better mosey on home. The Missuss has supper waitin.Lobo: AdiosCowboy: So LongThe boys spent an exciting evening (keeping Lobo up) watching the likes of Blind Date, Three's company, Cheers and other mindless television shows.Homeward BoundAfter a long day, driving through the desert and eating junk food, Lorenzo, the road warrior, guided us back into the Valley of the Sun. We found ourselves racing a very long freight train, trying to beat it to the 101 crossover. Not interested in prolonging the trip, Lorenzo morphed into Richard Petty and beat the train, just seconds before the gates went down. El Lobo was white knuckled and not interested in being in the vehicle with such an adrenaline junkie. A man behaving very badly.On Friday, I fly out with Zo (Richard Petty) to Nueva Vida to explore the Biosphere preserves and Mayan ruins of the Yucatan and continue south to the reefs of Belize. El autobus travel will be just fine for me.

7/13/2003

Ecuador

South American I’d go anywhere
South American somebody take me there
I wanna be, I wanna be, going back

Brian Wilson/Jimmy Buffet-South American 1998


We are back, and working our way through culture and climate shock.
The mercury hit 114 yesterday. We’re spending a lot of time in the pool. Our house and puppy-Cody were in fine shape thanks to our younger son, Jacobo, who was house sitting.

We flew out of Guayaquil close to midnight after spending nearly three weeks in Quito, the Oriente (jungle), and the Galapagos Islands.

Seldom have we thought as much, existed as vividly, learned and experienced as much, and seldom have we been so much ourselves, as in this adventure.

Highlights of this trip include:

-Staying at Los Alpes in Quito. A small family owned hotel loaded with old world charm. Spending several days exploring Ecuador’s colonial capital city. Shopping at the Mercado & touring the Casa de Culture Museo, impressed by the quantity and quality of the pre Colombian pieces.

-Soaking in the volcanic hot springs at Papallacta in the Andes.

-Nine day stay in the Amazonian Runa community of Venecia on the banks of the Napo River, tributary to the Amazon River. Backpacking into the rainforest, trekking through waist deep water. Taking a couple of canoe trips into Misahaulli. Dining on grubs and other exotic Amazonian foods that come from the Amazonian hunting and gathering traditions. Observing and taking part in a Quichua healing ceremony.

-Cruising to six of the Galapagos Islands on the First Class Yacht, Eden.
Observing, close up, the incredible variety of wildlife that included marine iguanas, giant tortoises, sea turtles, whales, dolphins, penguins, sea lions, blue footed boobys, owls and many more bird species.

-Snorkeling with the sea lions, turtles and a few sharks. (Gerry)


On the first part of the Journey………..

We were met at the Quito airport by Dr.Tod Swanson, ASU professor of Religious Studies and Director of the Latin American Studies Program. Tod
was raised by missionary parents in the jungle. His knowledge of Ecuador and the rainforest is first hand.
Quito sits in a valley at 10,000 feet. The temperature is similar to San Francisco. It was in the 60s during the day and low fifties at night.
On our first full day we toured “old town” with the students. Our tour included the San Francisco Cathedral and the governor’s house built in the 16th century. We enjoyed viewing 16th century art at the monastery and lunched at Cueva de Oso. That evening we dined at an Italian restaurant that provided a magnificent view of Quito.


The following day we took a bus up through the Andes, often travelling at 14,000 feet.. We stopped for a swim in the hot springs at Papallacta and arrived at Cotacochi after dark. Cotacochi was an eco-resort built by a German group but since turned over to the Quichuan Napo Community. We were given a very nice casita overlooking the Napa River. Gerry had the luxury of a hot shower. El Lobo bathed in the river in order to live as closely as possible to the way the indigenous Quichua communities live.

I was looking at all the life……

I spent my days studying Spanish, which is a secondary language to the community, exploring, and studying tropical plant diversity. Because Spanish is a secondary language, it is spoken slower and therefore easier for a student to practice.
We listened to Quichua residents’ ideas of plant relationships and their uses for food, medicines and building materials. When Tod was a young boy and bitten by a Bushmaster (poisonous snake) he was treated by a Quichuan Shaman with a plant remedy.

There were plants and birds………

Brilliantly colored butterflies and birds fluttered everywhere. Long columns of leaf cutting ants carried their cargo back to the colony.
In the evenings we sat on our deck which overlooked the river and sipped Chilean wine. We ate both traditional Quichan foods and every day Ecuadorian fare. We particularly enjoyed the fried bananas, pineapple, and potato soup, for which popcorn served as a garnish.

On a couple of trips to the river town of Misahaulli, the group enjoyed cervezas at Alex’s bar. Alex was educated at the U of Michigan and after a successful international career in structural engineering he returned home. He was real friendly and at one point smiled and said “You guys have Boooosh!”

Monkeys seemed to have taken over the town, and several stole items left unprotected, which were stored up in trees. At one point a pair of sunglasses was thrown down by one of the thieves, I guess they didn’t fit.

Every day was full and fun. The students were all bright and energetic, a joy to be around. Our Quichuan hosts were delightful.

Gerry was very impressed with the quality of the program and the dedication of Tod and his staff.

Abel and Tito, a couple of local boys, heard that it was our our anniversary and treated us and the group to a special musical performance. They ended each song with “Mas Vino!”

The air was full of sound…………

Gerry was remarkable on our overnight to the selva.(jungle) Seven months after hip replacement she was wading through waist deep water and climbing up difficult muddy slopes. It rained heavily through most of the night, but before the rain started the sounds of the jungle were amazing.

During a Quechuan healing ceremony in which a shaman ingested ayahuasca (a hallucinogenic, boiled from a rainforest vine), he talked about the wild pigs that have disappeared from the rainforest and gone to the inside of the mountains. He talked about the belief that the mountains will be opened one day and the pigs will return. Interestingly, this belief is also shared by the indigenous tribes in the Midwest, but instead of pigs they believe that the Buffalo will emerge from the bowels of the mountains and return.

Not far from Cotacochi, in May of this year, two tribes went to battle and 26 people were speared to death. One of the tribes was not even known to be in existence. The Ecuadorian government considered intervention but did not move troops into the area. In sharp contrast, just across the road from us the rain forest was being cut for a pipeline to the oil fields.


Our real adventure of the trip was when Gerry and I left the group and took a bus from Tena to Quito. It was running late and we just barely got aboard as it wasted no time at the estacion. The driver hurtled with break neck speed into the Andes. At one point a pickup truck cut in front of us to slow down the bus and a guy jumped out of the pickup and jumped on to the bus. I placed our full packs around Gerry to cushion potential impact. Snacking on trail mix was a mistake as it jarred down the wrong pipe and I spent several minutes choking.
El autobus made numerous stops along the way picking up campensinos with machetes. At one point a machete went sailing down the aisle of the bus and flew out the door. Road construction slowed us down as the bus got stuck in mud. The innovative crew hooked up a towing device and a caterpillar pulled us out. If you were a male you were not allowed to use the bano on board, it was only for women and the driver controlled the llave (key). If you had to go, you jumped off when he stopped to pick up a fare. You had to be quick and jump back on before he left without you.
The Latin music from the radio was deafening. However, as we were “cruising” at 14,000 feet, we were tranquilized by the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen and……. like a message sent from God, the haunting melody “Dust in the Wind’ came on the bus radio. We both got chills.

We spent the next two days shopping and sight seeing in Quito. We brought back over 50 little tesoros (treasures) Everything is muy borrato. (cheap)

We flew to Guayaquil and then to the island of Baltra in the Galapagos. We were met here, by our guide, Rafael, who turned out to be a great guy as well as a very informed naturalist.
We took a bus to the good ship Eden and immediately launched for one of the islands. We enjoyed great chemistry with the 12 other passengers who hailed from 4 different continents.

The desert had turned to sea………

Each night we would cruise to a different desert island and during the day observe the incredible diversity of wild life. We would hike and observe and snorkel. Some would dive.

The ocean is a desert with life underground and a perfect disguise above…….

Gerry bonded with several sea lions that would swim with her, playfully darting over and under her. What a feeling!
On her birthday the cook made her a special cake and we all celebrated that evening.
On our last night Rafael took us to his home to meet his family. Coincidentally, he had spent time at ASU, several years ago, in the intensive English Language and Cultural Program.

I hope that everyone on this mailing list has the opportunity to see the rainforest and the Galapagos at some time and understand how important the rainforest is to mankind and the other species that share Mother Earth.

With a simple click, you can save an area of rainforest land -- every day, for free. Just visit http://www.therainforestsite.com/home and click on the "Save Our Rainforests" button. That's it!
I wanna be, I wanna be, going back

6/14/2003

Desolation Wilderness

Subject: Desolation Wilderness & Old Indian tricks Desolation Wilderness California -Loon Lake, Pleasant Lake, Lake Winfred,Buck Island Lake, Rockbound Lake, Fox Lake, Rubicon Reservoir, HorseshoeLake, Lake Zitella, 4Qs Lakes. 30 miles-3 days-Rating 9.0Hope all had a nice Labor Day weekend-Returning to work, and watching someof my stocks tumble make me wonder why I left the Wilderness.I left the insanity of the LA airport on Friday afternoon and arrived inOakland after just an hour's delay on Southwest. While waiting and watchingthe mob scene, America West announced the cancellation of the flight that Inormally take to Phoenix on Friday afternoon. This flight has now been canceled three weeks in a row. The seduction of liberal AW miles and firstclass travel continues to cloud my judgment in the selection of carriers.My good friend and hiking partner Hannu, was waiting for me at the airport.Hannu is a world class orienteer and he had a plan to avoid to glut ofLaborDay traffic on I80 to Sacramento. He had mapped out a backroad routethroughthe Sacramento River Delta. In Antioch we enjoyed a great Pizza and severalSierra Nevada's to help us find the way down the Delta. The route was quiteconfusing and difficult to follow in the dark, but the great one pulled usthrough and we arrived at James Cabanas's home in Roseville at 10:30 P.M.James has cold Coronas waiting for us to further help us dehydrate goinginto the mountains. We spent the evening at James's and then headed up 50toLoon Lake where we would access the Desolation Wilderness from the West.There are nine points of access to the Wilderness. The Eastern points ofaccess are extremely congested due to their proximity to Tahoe.I have entered the Wilderness from seven locations, but had not tried theLoon Lake trailhead. This is my personal favorite for backpacking. Over thepast 11 years I have trekked to 60 of the 100+ Alpine Lakes in thisWilderness.The weather report promised rain on Saturday, partially clearing Sunday andMonday. It was raining at the trailhead when we arrived and we talked to avery cold guy whom had just gotten out of the Wilderness. He and hisequipment were totally soaked. "You have to be crazy to go in there, it ismiserable- we woke to four inches of snow at Rubicon." "The stream andrivercrossings are treacherous; I wouldn't try it if I were you." At this point,Hannu badly wanted to go to a nearby lodge for beer and burgers to wait outthe storm. When he heard "lets go!" he let go with a long string of cursesin the Fin tongue, but eventually put on his pack and lead the way.We met a couple of groups of three on the trail, soaked and miserable;drivenout by the weather. This did not cheer Hannu up, but his need to navigateandsteer kept him moving toward our destinations. The fog and clouds were solowthat we could not see 10 ft. in front of us.The good news turned out to be that we did not see anyone for three days!This was truly amazing as the Desolation Wilderness normally would be usedtocapacity on Labor Day.About seven miles in we came to one of the crossings that we had beenwarnedabout. A 50 ft. wide thundering swollen stream blocked passage to Rubiconreservoir.It looked about two feet deep and the force and water temperature was ofconcern.We elected to take off our boots and socks rather than thoroughly soakthem.It was at this point that Hannu elected to "toss" one of his boots acrossthestream over El Lobo's objection. Hannu is a world class orienteer but neverpitched for the Yankees nor attended an outdoors survivor school. His throwwas misguided but made it across-barely. "Great Hannu, now what if we don'tmake it across" -Hannu then decided to improve upon his last pitch andthrewhis second boot into the rushing water!James and I watched in horror (and glee) as the boot barely caught anobjectclose to the bank while traveling downstream. Hannu forgot about his coldfeet and barefooted across to rescue the boot, almost falling and goingdownstream.James and El Lobo made it across stream without incident, aided by Tevasandwalking sticks.On the other side, El Lobo tried to teach Hannu an old Indian trick -to dryyour feet with a bandana, but Hannu did not want to be taught old Indiantricks. In fact, throughout the trip, Hannu refused El Lobo's wisdomregarding "Old Indian Tricks."Perhaps he had learned that some of these "Old Indian tricks" were passedonfrom Steve Yahner, or he felt that these were only TRICKS used by El Lobotoobtain Hannu's stash of candy and treats?The wet backpacker at the trailhead had told us about a great camping spotatRubicon and we easily found it in an area that offered us some protectionfrom the elements.We experienced another scare that night, when about 2:00 A.M. we heard twoblood curdling screams coming from Hannu's teepee. We wondered if Hannu hadbeen dragged off by a bear, but were too cold to check if he was stillalive.The next morning we found an alive Hannu and when we inquired about thescreams he sheepishly mumbled something about BIGFOOT?The next day we elected to go cross country to some of the natural lakes inthe higher altitude. Rubicon reservoir is part of the Sacramento watersupplysystem. Where's the Monkey Wrench Gang when you need em?Hannu took us on a great Overland route to Horseshoe Lake and Lake Zitella.He did a great job and we would not have been able to find them withouthim.The hike was a bit treacherous as streaming water was everywhere on thegranite that we had to climb. Their were beautiful waterfalls and weclimbedto the altitude where the snow had stuck.We had numerous river and stream crossings on the way back that werenegotiated without incident. Hannu kept his boots on.Cold winds would periodically chill us to the bone. They sounded like a jetsoaring through the Wilderness.The next day the weather started to clear and we were able to get gorgeousviews of the lakes on our way out.We showered at James's and wolfed down Pizza and Fosters at a localestablishment before heading back to the bay area. Hannu again took theDeltabackroads and did an excellent job getting me there in time for my plane.Ifwe would have taken I80 we wouldn't have made it.Thanks to James for his hospitality.James is a solid, skilled outdoorsman and excellent with the camera. Asusual, he did not receive any demerits on the trip. He put together thetrip,provisioned it andprovided a calming influence to the group.This turned out to be a fantastic weekend. Great company and the best ofWilderness. I rated this a 9.0. It would have received a 9.9 if the weatherwas a little warmer and all lakes remained natural.I arrived back at Marina Del Rey in time to clean up my gear and enjoy thehottub.Gerry spent a nice weekend visiting her family and taking in a game at PACBell Stadium in San Francisco. Her comments on the game and stadium. "Itwasthe best!" I like it when Gerry is happy!Next weekend in Scottsdale preparing for the Mother of all adventures-GrandCanyon Colorado River trip.

5/13/2003

Rolling Stones

“Time is on my side, yes it is”

The “Forty Licks” tour stop in Phoenix was one of the mothers of all concerts that I have attended (#422) and Mother’s Little Helpers were focused and near perfect. Rolling Stones concerts have been called the greatest show on earth and I agree. Clearly, Mick Jagger is the best front man that the business has seen, and many consider the Stones the greatest Rock and Roll Band of all time. Others would argue that Led Zeppelin deserves that honor but my vote goes to the Stones.

The British group was formed when I was a sophomore in high school—and getting no satisfaction. Two years later “ I Can’t Get No Satisfaction” became the Stones’ first number one hit and an anthem for all young frustrated guys.

The Rolling Stones, who were heavily influenced by American rhythm and blues, took their name from a Muddy Waters’ song. The guys were the original “bad boys” of Rock and Roll.

The Rolling Stones were woven into the fabric of my misspent youth. There are so many memories, such as returning from a draft physical in Oakland on a bus filled with Reno boys. Ralph Gabrazano had his portable radio cranked up to “Paint it Black”
Every guy on the bus was singing (screaming) and beating their hands on the seats in tune with the music. When my girl friend dumped on me I would silently hum “Don’t play with me cause your playing with fire.”

Forty years later my concert partner and mate, Gerry, are at America West Arena seeing them in concert. Remarkable!
Forty years and forty albums released. Eight number one hits!
Mick Jagger, Keith Richard, and Charlie Watts were there from the beginning. Mick and Keith are both pushing 60. Ron Wood has been a Stone for thirty years. Original band member Brian Jones was found dead in his swimming pool in 1969. The official coroner’s report listed his death as a result of “misadventure.”

In the 60s, before they appeared on his show, Ed Sullivan ordered Mick Jagger to sing “Lets spend some time together” instead of the original lyric “Lets spend the night together.”
At a free concert at Altamount Speedway in California, a nightmarish murder committed by Hell’s Angels hired as security guards occurred in front of the stage while the group played “Sympathy for the Devil.”

Over the years there has been a long list of drug busts. But things have changed. The bad boys are focused and solid. They are filling arenas wherever they go and have amassed enough wealth to be on the cover of Fortune magazine.
Tickets to see the legends were expensive. But like a birder wanting a rare bird sighting for his lifelong list, El Lobo needed this rare gem for his lifelong concert list. So we paid the price. And it was worth every penny!
This concert at America West Arena has been sold out for months. The lights went out and thousands of red and blue battery powered flashing tongue pins filled the arena. Mick and Keith opened the show with Street Fighting Man. The roar was deafening.

The ageless Jagger pranced throughout the show. Gerry commented that he moved like a man 35 years younger. He started the show wearing a blue jacket and ended in tank top. He demonstrated incredible fitness while he danced and flung his wiry body and well sculpted arms around. The show was astronomical energy from start to finish. Keith Richards smiled throughout the performance and all band members seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their work. Their timeless sound was superb.

The first part of the show they played mostly new stuff, including their latest single release “Don’t Stop.” It went down real smooth. The second part was all about old classics. We really enjoyed their upbeat version of Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone”
They finished with “Jumpin Jack Flash, and by this time the crowd of, mostly, bad boys and girls in their 30s 40s and 50s, were in a frenzy. We would have liked to hear more of their old classics but they could play only a fraction in the terrific two hours that they played. The four old friends who have sustained their close relationship took numerous curtain calls for the appreciative crowd.

This was an alcohol free concert for Ger and I (the limitations of our diets and fitness regimen). We agreed that we would not let that happen again. Therefore it would be hard to rate this concert compared to the other 441 that I have seen that were far from alcohol free. It is definitely in my top 10.

Thanks for the gifts, guys, I can’t imagine this life’s journey without the Stones.

“I know it’s only Rock and Roll, but I like it” sums up it all up.

“Don’t stop!”