"I want to tell you a story... "I want to tell you about my town... "Down by the river... ³Down by the banks of the River Charles... "Well, I love that dirty water... "Boston, you're my home."
Standells 1966
Bonjour,
This was the ”Mother of all vacations” We drove 2600 miles through five states, four Canadian Provinces and consumed 10 bags of Cheetos. Peaceful coexistence was maintained in the car until the last day (the famous “big blow-up” at Dunkin Doughnuts) when we were stuck in Boston traffic and could not find or get to Quincy Market.
With that one exception we enjoyed every minute of our time, combining the culture and history of urban spaces, with country unbound-civilization and nature in harmony.
Overall rating a 10 + + + + + + + + +
Today is your Birthday
We planned our trip to arrive in the cradle of liberty on the fourth of July where it all started. What could be a better location to celebrate?
Fireworks and Boston Pops by the River Charles anyone?
Do you love baseball?
I have waited all my life to see the Red Sox play in Fenway. On my last visit to New England, tickets in hand, the 9/11 terrorists took this dream away. I vowed to return.
We walked into Fenway Park and gazed at ‘The Green Monster”. I thought that nothing could be more beautiful! My mind raced back to game 6 of the 1975 World Series when “Pudge” hit the memorable home run off the foul pole in the 12th inning giving the Red Sox a 7-6 win over Cincinnati.
I think that the Monster is what gives Fenway Park its magical touch. It is a significant piece of baseball history.
It was born the same year as me, 1947, when it was painted green.
Ted Williams was the first great player to roam left field in front of the Monster, passing the torch to my all time favorite player, Carl Yastrzemski, and down to Jim Rice. A pretty good player by the name of Manny plays there now.
The Monster has seen it's share of good players but no one has played it better than “Captain Carl” He learned to use the wall to decoy players on balls off the wall by making them think it was a routine fly ball. He played the wall like a fine musical instrument.
The Sox shut out and routed Oakland with 18 hits and 11 runs. Nomar pounded two doubles off the Monster. Bill Mueller hit a three run homer over the Monster. Wakefield’s knuckler hummed.
Paradise!
Do you love beer? Oui monsieur, Sam Adams!
After the game, Ger and I partied with hundreds of happy fans at a local pub.
It was a magical evening and the Green Monster is etched in our hearts forever.
Highlights of this trip include:
-Visiting dear friends and relatives in New England and Canada
-An emotional visit to the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum
-Shopping and chowdah in Boston, sight seeing on Cape Cod
-Hiking in beautiful Acadia National Park on the Maine coastline. Hanging out in charming Bar Harbor. Dining on lobstah and Mooseheads.
-Taking the ferry to Yarmouth Nova Scotia
-Touring magnificent Nova Scotia-Annapolis, Peggy’s Cove, Lunenburg Seaport and the Halifax waterfront
-Hiking in Fundy National Park New Brunswick. We watched fishing boats come and go to the rhythm of the bay. Inland, we explored lush forests and deep stream valleys.
Riviere De Loup-Dining by the St. Lawrence
-Chateau Bellevue Hotel in old Quebec for four days where we walked the European style neighborhoods and dined in charming sidewalk cafes along the St. Lawrence. Caught the changing of the guard at the Citadel and Picasso at the Musee de Arts
-Montreal- We walked the Festivals, hoisted a few Labatts Bleue and enjoyed a fabulous dinner, hosted by our friends Denny and Carol
-Touring the Adirondack Mountains in beautiful upstate New York
- Touring the Baseball Hall of Fame & Fenimore Cooper Art Museum in gorgeous Cooperstown. James Fenimore Cooper’s The Last of the Mohicans is one of my top 50 books.
- Driving the marvelous Hudson River Valley, stopping at the FDR and Vanderbilt National Historic Sites
-Walking the UCONN campus and touring the basketball stadium, home of 2003 NCAA Basketball Champions-Men & Women
-Scoring souvenir Green Monster and Cooperstown t-shirts
Men & Women behaving badly
All Yankee fans for being dirty Yankee fans
Gerry- for telling me how to drive for 2100 miles. (She was asleep for the other 500.)
El Lobo for starting the “big blow-up” at Dunkin Doughnuts
9/12/2004
9/11/2004
Tahoe Rim Trail
"The finest of the glacier meadow gardens lie at an elevation of about nine thousand feet, imbedded in the upper pine forests like lakes of light."
John Muir
Hombres de Montana:
Zo
El Lobo Grande
“Its the road, not the inn”
Our “road trip” started at four in the morning on September 3 and ended at two in the morning September 14. The weather was warm, the journey long and scenery spectacular. The junk food was terrific.
Highlights of this trip include:
Stunning Tahoe
-Slamming down Pale Ales at the Brew Pub at Crystal Bay
-Four and ½ days of backpacking The Tahoe Rim Trail (80 miles, 24,000 feet of elevation gain/loss) and taking in breath taking views of ---- Genoa Valley, The Upper Truckee River, Emerald Bay and the pristine alpine lakes----Star, Round, Shadow, Echoes, Tamarack, Aloha, Heather, Susie, Gillmore, Half Moon, Dicks, Fontanillis, Velmas and Eagle.
-Taking a “water taxi” on Echo Lakes.
-A magnificent sunset accompanied by coyote howls and turkey gobbles at Gilmore Lake in the Desolation Wilderness.
Reno/Truckee Meadows
-Visiting friends and relatives
- Two cases of Sierra Nevada's at Ganskas
-Listening to 30 minute “River Runs” on the 60s and 70s station
-Picon Punches and Tequila chasers at Louie's Basque Corner
-Wolfpack Football Game with the Damons---------Wolf!!!
-Jim Boys Tacos-The greasiest and best in the world
-Poker night at Ganskas--Texas Hold’em
-Slamming down Pale Ales in the Brew Pub at the El Dorado
-Bucket of Blood Saloon in Virginia City-Whiskey!!!!
Gabbs
-Berlin Ichthyosaur State Park-fossils and turn of the 20th century ghost town
The Endless Trail-Paradise found
Early on a Sunday morning we took a cab from the Levy's condo in Incline Village to Spooner Summit. The previous day had been spent taking care of business-checking in with my Realtor and property manager and caching some food and water at Big Meadow. Now it was time to hike.
The cab driver had trouble lifting our packs out of the trunk and was amazed that we were actually going to carry them for 80 miles. Yes, our packs were heavy, but we were eager to get on the trail so we bid him farewell and started climbing.
Four and ½ days later, half of the Tahoe Rim Trail completed, we hiked down to Emerald Bay and were picked up by Zo’s friend Ralph Ganska. This was an epoch journey –unsurpassed beauty, serenity and sore feet. The feet have recovered, the fatigue is almost gone and soul remains charged.
Day 1-Spooner to Daggett Pass-20 miles
Fantastic views of Lake Tahoe and Genoa Valley. The 3.5mile residential up and down “walk” from Kingsbury N. to Kingsbury S. should be avoided at all cost – take a taxi
Day 2-Daggett Pass to Grass Lake-19 miles
Star Lake is a refreshing swimming/bathing spot. The hike up to Armstrong Pass is up and up and up. Great views of where you've been.
Day 3-Grass Lake to Benwood Meadow-17 miles
Second most scenic section of the trip and the hardest hiking. Much of the trail is above 9,000 feet and offers amazing views of valleys and alpine meadows above treeline. Shadows Lake surrounded by these colorful alpine meadows cant be beat.
Day 4-Benwood Meadow to Gillmore Lake-15 miles
Desolation Wilderness with its (relatively) sparse tree groupings surrounded by bare rock and chains of lakes is what its all about. Lake Aloha is like an alien landscape.
Day 5-Gilmore Lake to Emerald Bay -9 miles
Standing atop Dick’s Pass and looking down at Dick’s Lake, Fontanillis and the Velmas’ is as good as it gets. All downhill to Emerald Bay from here.
Men Behaving Badly:
Robert Levy for cocktailing with the boys Friday evening, feeling no pain and getting in big trouble with his wife.
Lorenzo for constantly complaining on the trail and accusing El Lobo of enjoying his misery.
Lobo for laughing hysterically at Lorenzo’s misery and pain.
Lorenzo for carrying three pounds of rain gear and a liter of Vodka. Maybe he thought he was in Florida?
Lobo for trying to melt his stove’s aluminum base plate instead of heating the water. The flame should point up, not down Lobo.
Lorenzo for needing anger management counseling –Famous trail quotes:
“F*%K the views, get me to a camp spot”!!!!
“F&^K the birds”!!!!! (after Lobo stopped and said “listen, the birds are chirping”)
“I can’t take another day of this”!!!!
“Perhaps we should stop at Echo Lodge where you can rest, your toe may get Infected”—Lobo-“shutup, and keep hiking Lorenzo”
Hannu for letting a near lethal brown recluse spider bite and knee surgery keep him from the trip. C’mon Hannu, what kind of excuses are those?
A Bear that broke into Echo Lake Lodge.
Tim Hauserman, author of The Tahoe Rim Trail Book for his poor trail interpretation and Kingsbury trail connection. If you want to know how to effectively trek and navigate this trail, call El Lobo Grande. (guia famosa)
El Lobo at Aloha Lake for not jumping in and enjoying his own stench.
El Lobo at the end of the trip in the Vikingsholm parking lot, lying on the ground crying out “water, water, water” until a kindly Sr. citizen gave him an ice cold Crystal Geyser.
Wally Corey for asking the hostess at the Western Village to marry him.
Ralph Ganska for taking us to the Wild Orchid where El Lobo fell asleep and was abruptly awakened by a wild thing that jumped into his lap from a pole.
Lorenzo and Ganska for drinking beer and watching football for fourteen straight hours.
Good-bye Yellow Brick Road
OK that's it, the end of another great adventure and the close of the El Lobo Grande 2004 Tour of Americas. It is now time to get back to work. Thanks to Lorenzo for his companionship and road warrior driving.
Thanks to Ralph Ganska, The Levys, The Damons and The Coreys for their hospitality and the time we shared.
John Muir
Hombres de Montana:
Zo
El Lobo Grande
“Its the road, not the inn”
Our “road trip” started at four in the morning on September 3 and ended at two in the morning September 14. The weather was warm, the journey long and scenery spectacular. The junk food was terrific.
Highlights of this trip include:
Stunning Tahoe
-Slamming down Pale Ales at the Brew Pub at Crystal Bay
-Four and ½ days of backpacking The Tahoe Rim Trail (80 miles, 24,000 feet of elevation gain/loss) and taking in breath taking views of ---- Genoa Valley, The Upper Truckee River, Emerald Bay and the pristine alpine lakes----Star, Round, Shadow, Echoes, Tamarack, Aloha, Heather, Susie, Gillmore, Half Moon, Dicks, Fontanillis, Velmas and Eagle.
-Taking a “water taxi” on Echo Lakes.
-A magnificent sunset accompanied by coyote howls and turkey gobbles at Gilmore Lake in the Desolation Wilderness.
Reno/Truckee Meadows
-Visiting friends and relatives
- Two cases of Sierra Nevada's at Ganskas
-Listening to 30 minute “River Runs” on the 60s and 70s station
-Picon Punches and Tequila chasers at Louie's Basque Corner
-Wolfpack Football Game with the Damons---------Wolf!!!
-Jim Boys Tacos-The greasiest and best in the world
-Poker night at Ganskas--Texas Hold’em
-Slamming down Pale Ales in the Brew Pub at the El Dorado
-Bucket of Blood Saloon in Virginia City-Whiskey!!!!
Gabbs
-Berlin Ichthyosaur State Park-fossils and turn of the 20th century ghost town
The Endless Trail-Paradise found
Early on a Sunday morning we took a cab from the Levy's condo in Incline Village to Spooner Summit. The previous day had been spent taking care of business-checking in with my Realtor and property manager and caching some food and water at Big Meadow. Now it was time to hike.
The cab driver had trouble lifting our packs out of the trunk and was amazed that we were actually going to carry them for 80 miles. Yes, our packs were heavy, but we were eager to get on the trail so we bid him farewell and started climbing.
Four and ½ days later, half of the Tahoe Rim Trail completed, we hiked down to Emerald Bay and were picked up by Zo’s friend Ralph Ganska. This was an epoch journey –unsurpassed beauty, serenity and sore feet. The feet have recovered, the fatigue is almost gone and soul remains charged.
Day 1-Spooner to Daggett Pass-20 miles
Fantastic views of Lake Tahoe and Genoa Valley. The 3.5mile residential up and down “walk” from Kingsbury N. to Kingsbury S. should be avoided at all cost – take a taxi
Day 2-Daggett Pass to Grass Lake-19 miles
Star Lake is a refreshing swimming/bathing spot. The hike up to Armstrong Pass is up and up and up. Great views of where you've been.
Day 3-Grass Lake to Benwood Meadow-17 miles
Second most scenic section of the trip and the hardest hiking. Much of the trail is above 9,000 feet and offers amazing views of valleys and alpine meadows above treeline. Shadows Lake surrounded by these colorful alpine meadows cant be beat.
Day 4-Benwood Meadow to Gillmore Lake-15 miles
Desolation Wilderness with its (relatively) sparse tree groupings surrounded by bare rock and chains of lakes is what its all about. Lake Aloha is like an alien landscape.
Day 5-Gilmore Lake to Emerald Bay -9 miles
Standing atop Dick’s Pass and looking down at Dick’s Lake, Fontanillis and the Velmas’ is as good as it gets. All downhill to Emerald Bay from here.
Men Behaving Badly:
Robert Levy for cocktailing with the boys Friday evening, feeling no pain and getting in big trouble with his wife.
Lorenzo for constantly complaining on the trail and accusing El Lobo of enjoying his misery.
Lobo for laughing hysterically at Lorenzo’s misery and pain.
Lorenzo for carrying three pounds of rain gear and a liter of Vodka. Maybe he thought he was in Florida?
Lobo for trying to melt his stove’s aluminum base plate instead of heating the water. The flame should point up, not down Lobo.
Lorenzo for needing anger management counseling –Famous trail quotes:
“F*%K the views, get me to a camp spot”!!!!
“F&^K the birds”!!!!! (after Lobo stopped and said “listen, the birds are chirping”)
“I can’t take another day of this”!!!!
“Perhaps we should stop at Echo Lodge where you can rest, your toe may get Infected”—Lobo-“shutup, and keep hiking Lorenzo”
Hannu for letting a near lethal brown recluse spider bite and knee surgery keep him from the trip. C’mon Hannu, what kind of excuses are those?
A Bear that broke into Echo Lake Lodge.
Tim Hauserman, author of The Tahoe Rim Trail Book for his poor trail interpretation and Kingsbury trail connection. If you want to know how to effectively trek and navigate this trail, call El Lobo Grande. (guia famosa)
El Lobo at Aloha Lake for not jumping in and enjoying his own stench.
El Lobo at the end of the trip in the Vikingsholm parking lot, lying on the ground crying out “water, water, water” until a kindly Sr. citizen gave him an ice cold Crystal Geyser.
Wally Corey for asking the hostess at the Western Village to marry him.
Ralph Ganska for taking us to the Wild Orchid where El Lobo fell asleep and was abruptly awakened by a wild thing that jumped into his lap from a pole.
Lorenzo and Ganska for drinking beer and watching football for fourteen straight hours.
Good-bye Yellow Brick Road
OK that's it, the end of another great adventure and the close of the El Lobo Grande 2004 Tour of Americas. It is now time to get back to work. Thanks to Lorenzo for his companionship and road warrior driving.
Thanks to Ralph Ganska, The Levys, The Damons and The Coreys for their hospitality and the time we shared.
5/13/2004
Dancin Up Charleston Peak
“What happens here stays here-Las Vegas”
Let’s do the Charleston!
Most go to Las Vegas for fun and games and perhaps to get on top of someone. Call us stupid, but we came to get on top of a mountain-Charleston Peak. This was unfinished business.
I was chased off this mountain last year in May due to blizzard type conditions.
We left Friday evening and were on the peak by 11:00 A.M. the following morning.
Dancers
Nu
El Lobo
Charleston Peak National Trail-18 miles-10,000’ elevation gain/loss-7 hours
Charleston Peak (11,915) is the most climbed major mountain in Nevada. Nevertheless, this intriguing mountain belonged on our list. The Spring Mountains are located just 20 miles north of the fringes of Sin City and these natural towers are in sharp contrast to mankind’s Vegas skyline.
The peaks are wet enough to support dense forests. For all its proximity to the city, this whole mountain range remains wilder than most. This is beautiful country.
The trail runs through woods of ponderosa pine, white fir, and mountain mahogany up to 10,000 feet. Beyond that, there are groves of bristlecone pines, the oldest trees on earth.
The peak is the highest point on a long U-shaped ridgeline that wraps around the head of Kyle Canyon. Here at the top of Southern Nevada, our horizon was huge. It was a clear day and we could see for over a hundred miles to Telescope Peak in the Panamint Range beyond Death Valley and to the Sierras beyond that. Our panoramic view took in portions of four states-California, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.
Less than a mile to the top
It had been a long time since I have hiked with Hannu. He had been recently bitten by a brown recluse spider and his status was in question.
Hannu is a world class orienteer and he travels at one speed-FAST! His pace is legendary and feared by all that dare to travel with him. He does not like to stop and rest or enjoy the view. He just wants to continue at a torturous pace. I thought the spider bite would slow him down-wrong!
Note: Hannu is also acquainted with the famous Finnish Farter Jim. Jim is from California and can apparently fart at will. The Finns appear to be quite talented at many sports.
On the trail down, I insisted on taking a break and a fast tracking duo passed us. Hannu, paced like a caged animal on this short break, and then he relentlessly stalked the duo until they broke. They asked in a surprising tone, “Do you want to pass?”
After the kill, the energized Hannu increased his pace, now intent to kill me.
At the trailhead we broke out our camp chairs and guzzled down a couple of oil cans of Fosters. “(That’s beer in Australian)”
Later, one of the people we had passed came over to introduce himself and find out “who these fast hikers were.”
Jim is from Las Vegas and has bagged many high pointers in each state across the country as well as most fourteeners in California and Colorado. He wanted company on his next trip to Montana where he was planning on climbing some very remote peaks.
We exchanged email addresses with the promise to hook up sometime in the future.
Living it up at the Hotel Lady Luck
We stayed in a scummy, cheap, downtown room that reeked of smoke, (non smoking room) the television didn’t work, and the sink was stopped up.
Friday night I was awoken by someone vomiting and moaning in the hall. –Perfect!
Saturday evening we dined and slammed down pale ales at the “Big Dog” with my old Friends AAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL Yates and Dan Mackimmmmmmmeeeeee with whom I used to work at First Interstate in Reno.
It was great to see them.
That night the power couple in the next room went at it all night long, they continuously slammed their bed into our adjoining wall.
On the road home Nu and I set a record for stops at A.M/ P.M and eating Junk food. It was mighty tasty!!
Men Behaving Badly:
Zo for again being afraid of his boss Richard and being a “No Show”
Dingo for being afraid of Hannu’s pace and being a “No Show”
Erik S for promising us a plush hotel room and half price drinks with his Westin discount and then being a no show because he was afraid of his boss.
El Lobo for acting like he was gambling at Lady Luck in order to get free beers.
When asked where he was playing by the cocktail waitress, he said that he was playing quarters. Unfortunately he was at a dollar machine. His Corona was confiscated by the sexy cocktail waitress in a mini skirt that accentuated her CRLs. (Charging Rhinoceros Legs)
Nu for disgustingly exclaiming - “Sir?” on the trail each time El Lobo cut one.
Nu for continuing to argue that it is not possible to obtain an erection in a Finnish Sauna, even if Pamela Anderson was in there. C'mon Hannu, I know a guy named Disco Will that could!
Let’s do the Charleston!
Most go to Las Vegas for fun and games and perhaps to get on top of someone. Call us stupid, but we came to get on top of a mountain-Charleston Peak. This was unfinished business.
I was chased off this mountain last year in May due to blizzard type conditions.
We left Friday evening and were on the peak by 11:00 A.M. the following morning.
Dancers
Nu
El Lobo
Charleston Peak National Trail-18 miles-10,000’ elevation gain/loss-7 hours
Charleston Peak (11,915) is the most climbed major mountain in Nevada. Nevertheless, this intriguing mountain belonged on our list. The Spring Mountains are located just 20 miles north of the fringes of Sin City and these natural towers are in sharp contrast to mankind’s Vegas skyline.
The peaks are wet enough to support dense forests. For all its proximity to the city, this whole mountain range remains wilder than most. This is beautiful country.
The trail runs through woods of ponderosa pine, white fir, and mountain mahogany up to 10,000 feet. Beyond that, there are groves of bristlecone pines, the oldest trees on earth.
The peak is the highest point on a long U-shaped ridgeline that wraps around the head of Kyle Canyon. Here at the top of Southern Nevada, our horizon was huge. It was a clear day and we could see for over a hundred miles to Telescope Peak in the Panamint Range beyond Death Valley and to the Sierras beyond that. Our panoramic view took in portions of four states-California, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.
Less than a mile to the top
It had been a long time since I have hiked with Hannu. He had been recently bitten by a brown recluse spider and his status was in question.
Hannu is a world class orienteer and he travels at one speed-FAST! His pace is legendary and feared by all that dare to travel with him. He does not like to stop and rest or enjoy the view. He just wants to continue at a torturous pace. I thought the spider bite would slow him down-wrong!
Note: Hannu is also acquainted with the famous Finnish Farter Jim. Jim is from California and can apparently fart at will. The Finns appear to be quite talented at many sports.
On the trail down, I insisted on taking a break and a fast tracking duo passed us. Hannu, paced like a caged animal on this short break, and then he relentlessly stalked the duo until they broke. They asked in a surprising tone, “Do you want to pass?”
After the kill, the energized Hannu increased his pace, now intent to kill me.
At the trailhead we broke out our camp chairs and guzzled down a couple of oil cans of Fosters. “(That’s beer in Australian)”
Later, one of the people we had passed came over to introduce himself and find out “who these fast hikers were.”
Jim is from Las Vegas and has bagged many high pointers in each state across the country as well as most fourteeners in California and Colorado. He wanted company on his next trip to Montana where he was planning on climbing some very remote peaks.
We exchanged email addresses with the promise to hook up sometime in the future.
Living it up at the Hotel Lady Luck
We stayed in a scummy, cheap, downtown room that reeked of smoke, (non smoking room) the television didn’t work, and the sink was stopped up.
Friday night I was awoken by someone vomiting and moaning in the hall. –Perfect!
Saturday evening we dined and slammed down pale ales at the “Big Dog” with my old Friends AAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL Yates and Dan Mackimmmmmmmeeeeee with whom I used to work at First Interstate in Reno.
It was great to see them.
That night the power couple in the next room went at it all night long, they continuously slammed their bed into our adjoining wall.
On the road home Nu and I set a record for stops at A.M/ P.M and eating Junk food. It was mighty tasty!!
Men Behaving Badly:
Zo for again being afraid of his boss Richard and being a “No Show”
Dingo for being afraid of Hannu’s pace and being a “No Show”
Erik S for promising us a plush hotel room and half price drinks with his Westin discount and then being a no show because he was afraid of his boss.
El Lobo for acting like he was gambling at Lady Luck in order to get free beers.
When asked where he was playing by the cocktail waitress, he said that he was playing quarters. Unfortunately he was at a dollar machine. His Corona was confiscated by the sexy cocktail waitress in a mini skirt that accentuated her CRLs. (Charging Rhinoceros Legs)
Nu for disgustingly exclaiming - “Sir?” on the trail each time El Lobo cut one.
Nu for continuing to argue that it is not possible to obtain an erection in a Finnish Sauna, even if Pamela Anderson was in there. C'mon Hannu, I know a guy named Disco Will that could!
5/01/2004
Planet of The Apes-Babo
"I can see for miles and miles and miles"
The Who 1967
The Endless Weekend
Friday Evening
I had just returned from five days in Southern Utah's Canyonlands, backpacking in 65 mph winds and record rains. (TR to follow) The gear was a mess and required several hours to clean and put away.
Saturday Evening
Gerry and I spent a quiet, relaxing evening, enjoying a steak dinner outside by the pool. The weather was perfect and we polished off a couple of good bottles of Australian Shiraz while listening to some of our favorite oldies.
Quite a bit of time was spent analyzing and philosophizing the lyrics of "Making Love out Of Nothing at All" a million seller by the Australian group Air Supply, recorded in 1983.
This dialogue was similar to a discussion such as: "What is Goofy? Is he a dog? Exactly what kind of animal is goofy?"
This deep philosophical session put me in bed much later than I had planned.
Road Trip
It was four A.M. Sunday morning and we had been driving for for two hours. Just outside Tucson we stopped at a Circle K for coffee and breakfast. Dingo heated up a frozen breakfast burrito. Mad Dog had not been to bed and scarfed down a frozen Pizza. Zo inhaled a hot dog. Lobo sipped his coffee, pondered the situation and cursed. Why had I planned and organized this outing? Why did they decide to go?
We all, of course knew the answer .....This was unfinished business. Our last attempt at Babo left us 600' from the summit. We were not going to be denied again. By noon we would be on top of the sacred peak.
Escaladores
Zo
Dingo Dan
Mad Dog Dan
El Lobo Grande
This time we made our approach from the West. We followed a good dirt road 10 miles to Baboquivari camp, which is beautifully maintained by the Tohono O'odham tribe. There was no one there at 7:00 A.M. There was no sign of the drug runners that the border patrol had warned us about.
We started our approach up a well maintained trail and hiked up 3500' to the "Great Ramp" where the trail ended and a scramble was now required. This part would be scary for non climbers who may mutiny and demand a belay.
We were shaded from the morning sun by Babo and this provided some relief. Along the way we discovered several campfire pits and areas to camp. (and hide)?
We reached the base of a 150' rock face, the Ladder Pitch at 11:00 A.M.
Zo climbed up unprotected and set anchors for us to climb with the protection of a rope. This pitch is a 5.6.
Mad Dog on his first rock climb (Pic by Zo)
After each of us climbed this face, we went South/West and free climbed a tricky short section with a chockstone. We then followed a vague route to the summit.
Alto de Montana
The summit was simply awe inspiring! The views were 360 degrees into the great wide open. You could see for miles and miles into old Mexico.
A few Indian trinkets had been left as an offering. Several species of large birds soared overhead.
Dozens of starlings zipped past, miniature jets flying 90 miles an hour. A few came too close for comfort and El Lobo became quite eager to start down. I mean, we were only half way done and still had a dangerous down climb to negotiate.
I was convinced that the starlings were sending us a message from the gods to leave the sacred mountain. The boys did not feel my sense of urgency.
"You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know."
- Rene Daumal
Free climbing down the top section was nerve racking but we went slow, had great communication and teamwork, and slowly worked down to the face. Here we each rapped down with a belay from Zo and then he followed.
At the "Great Ramp" we enjoyed a leisurely lunch before scrambling down to the trail. Hiking down was hot and arduous. El Lobo took a bad fall and his arm hemorrhaged. Along the way we spotted a pack hidden in some trees. We did not investigate.
After 10 hours of climbing and 9000' of elevation change we heard loud music coming from the direction of the camp.
We cautiously approached Zo's truck and were delighted to find a group of Tohono O'odham families having a picnic. The children were swinging at a piñata, having a great time. We set up our camp chairs and collapsed into them. It had been a long day and we still had over four hours of driving left.
Pacificos flowed through our exhausted bodies. A large hard bloody lump had formed on El Lobo's arm. We all debated as to it's status-broken or bruised?
We drove out the back road through a beautiful thick forest of stately saguaros and we arrived in Tucson two hours later where we had dinner and cervezas at the eccentric Old Congress Hotel.
We arrived at Dingo Dan's at 11:00 P.M. Zo, the road warrior, got us home safely again.
Thanks to Zo for leading the climb and driving.
Babo! Babo! Babo!
Hombres Malos
Lobo - For being TOO much of a morning person at 2 a.m. He arrived at Dingo's house half inebriated with the radio on high volume and woke up Dingo's neighbors.
Lobo - for leaving noxious gas in Mad Dog's face during the climb.
Mad Dog - for sticking his snout too close to Lobo
Dingo, Zo and Mad Dog- for torturing the superstitious El Lobo on the summit by purposely taking their sweet time taking pictures and relaxing before descending.
Dingo - For bringing climbing shoes -- it's only 5.6 Dingo! Even Mad Dog, who's never climbed, didn't need climbing shoes.
Mad Dog For laughing loudly at Lobo's bludgeoned arm. Perhaps if Lobo had fallen to his death Mad Dog would have thought that it was hysterically funny?
Mad Dog For mooching a quart of water from Zo, a quart of grapefruit juice from Dingo and a liter of Gatorade from Lobo and then running out of water on the descent and acting dizzy in order to get more free liquid from us.
Lobo - For EXAGGERATING his sneezes at the Congress Hotel.
Group - For not paying the day use fee at the Babo campground.
The Who 1967
The Endless Weekend
Friday Evening
I had just returned from five days in Southern Utah's Canyonlands, backpacking in 65 mph winds and record rains. (TR to follow) The gear was a mess and required several hours to clean and put away.
Saturday Evening
Gerry and I spent a quiet, relaxing evening, enjoying a steak dinner outside by the pool. The weather was perfect and we polished off a couple of good bottles of Australian Shiraz while listening to some of our favorite oldies.
Quite a bit of time was spent analyzing and philosophizing the lyrics of "Making Love out Of Nothing at All" a million seller by the Australian group Air Supply, recorded in 1983.
This dialogue was similar to a discussion such as: "What is Goofy? Is he a dog? Exactly what kind of animal is goofy?"
This deep philosophical session put me in bed much later than I had planned.
Road Trip
It was four A.M. Sunday morning and we had been driving for for two hours. Just outside Tucson we stopped at a Circle K for coffee and breakfast. Dingo heated up a frozen breakfast burrito. Mad Dog had not been to bed and scarfed down a frozen Pizza. Zo inhaled a hot dog. Lobo sipped his coffee, pondered the situation and cursed. Why had I planned and organized this outing? Why did they decide to go?
We all, of course knew the answer .....This was unfinished business. Our last attempt at Babo left us 600' from the summit. We were not going to be denied again. By noon we would be on top of the sacred peak.
Escaladores
Zo
Dingo Dan
Mad Dog Dan
El Lobo Grande
This time we made our approach from the West. We followed a good dirt road 10 miles to Baboquivari camp, which is beautifully maintained by the Tohono O'odham tribe. There was no one there at 7:00 A.M. There was no sign of the drug runners that the border patrol had warned us about.
We started our approach up a well maintained trail and hiked up 3500' to the "Great Ramp" where the trail ended and a scramble was now required. This part would be scary for non climbers who may mutiny and demand a belay.
We were shaded from the morning sun by Babo and this provided some relief. Along the way we discovered several campfire pits and areas to camp. (and hide)?
We reached the base of a 150' rock face, the Ladder Pitch at 11:00 A.M.
Zo climbed up unprotected and set anchors for us to climb with the protection of a rope. This pitch is a 5.6.
Mad Dog on his first rock climb (Pic by Zo)
After each of us climbed this face, we went South/West and free climbed a tricky short section with a chockstone. We then followed a vague route to the summit.
Alto de Montana
The summit was simply awe inspiring! The views were 360 degrees into the great wide open. You could see for miles and miles into old Mexico.
A few Indian trinkets had been left as an offering. Several species of large birds soared overhead.
Dozens of starlings zipped past, miniature jets flying 90 miles an hour. A few came too close for comfort and El Lobo became quite eager to start down. I mean, we were only half way done and still had a dangerous down climb to negotiate.
I was convinced that the starlings were sending us a message from the gods to leave the sacred mountain. The boys did not feel my sense of urgency.
"You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know."
- Rene Daumal
Free climbing down the top section was nerve racking but we went slow, had great communication and teamwork, and slowly worked down to the face. Here we each rapped down with a belay from Zo and then he followed.
At the "Great Ramp" we enjoyed a leisurely lunch before scrambling down to the trail. Hiking down was hot and arduous. El Lobo took a bad fall and his arm hemorrhaged. Along the way we spotted a pack hidden in some trees. We did not investigate.
After 10 hours of climbing and 9000' of elevation change we heard loud music coming from the direction of the camp.
We cautiously approached Zo's truck and were delighted to find a group of Tohono O'odham families having a picnic. The children were swinging at a piñata, having a great time. We set up our camp chairs and collapsed into them. It had been a long day and we still had over four hours of driving left.
Pacificos flowed through our exhausted bodies. A large hard bloody lump had formed on El Lobo's arm. We all debated as to it's status-broken or bruised?
We drove out the back road through a beautiful thick forest of stately saguaros and we arrived in Tucson two hours later where we had dinner and cervezas at the eccentric Old Congress Hotel.
We arrived at Dingo Dan's at 11:00 P.M. Zo, the road warrior, got us home safely again.
Thanks to Zo for leading the climb and driving.
Babo! Babo! Babo!
Hombres Malos
Lobo - For being TOO much of a morning person at 2 a.m. He arrived at Dingo's house half inebriated with the radio on high volume and woke up Dingo's neighbors.
Lobo - for leaving noxious gas in Mad Dog's face during the climb.
Mad Dog - for sticking his snout too close to Lobo
Dingo, Zo and Mad Dog- for torturing the superstitious El Lobo on the summit by purposely taking their sweet time taking pictures and relaxing before descending.
Dingo - For bringing climbing shoes -- it's only 5.6 Dingo! Even Mad Dog, who's never climbed, didn't need climbing shoes.
Mad Dog For laughing loudly at Lobo's bludgeoned arm. Perhaps if Lobo had fallen to his death Mad Dog would have thought that it was hysterically funny?
Mad Dog For mooching a quart of water from Zo, a quart of grapefruit juice from Dingo and a liter of Gatorade from Lobo and then running out of water on the descent and acting dizzy in order to get more free liquid from us.
Lobo - For EXAGGERATING his sneezes at the Congress Hotel.
Group - For not paying the day use fee at the Babo campground.
3/11/2004
Canyon Dreams
"On each side rose the canyon walls, roughly perpendicular. There was no way to continue except by dropping into the pool. I hesitated. Beyond this point there could hardly be any returning, yet the main canyon was still not visible below. Obviously the only sensible thing to do was to turn back. I edged over the lip of stone and dropped feet first into the water."
Edward Abbey
Escaladores del canons:
Chacal
Dingo Dan
El Lobo Grande
Canyoneering can be dangerous. It presents a unique set of challenges with associated risks. Our group elected to forego a Nankoweep backpack, dropping 6000' because of a storm front and Chacal's health. (More on this in Men Behaving Badly Section)
Our alternative plan was to do Marble Canyon day trips down Rider and Jackass Canyons to the Colorado River/Grand Canyon. We also planned on climbing the Vermilion Cliffs via the Spencer Trail at Lee's Ferry. The slot canyons in these areas are beautiful, but can be extremely dangerous when it rains. Hikers have been killed in flash floods generated by thunderstorms as far as 25 miles away.
We took these risks seriously, but elected to take them one canyon at a time, study our maps for escape routes, watch for changes in the weather, stay extremely alert and make good decisions before entering any narrows.
In Jackass Canyon, we made an excellent decision and reacted quickly. A high sense of awareness and playing it smart enabled us to get out of the path of the grim reaper and to canyoneer another day.
"Like a rock, I was strong as I could beLike a rock, nothin’ ever got to meLike a rock, I was something to seeLike a rock"
We were able to easily find scenic, remote, Rider Canyon after 14 miles of driving backroads in House Rock Valley. We encountered a beautiful herd of pronghorn antelopes along the way.
It was a steep descent to the bottom through the Kaibab Sandstone. Once in the canyon bottom, several falls and pools presented route problems that were easily resolved. A 20' rappel and a 5.1 downclimb was required over slippery rock.
"Twenty years nowWhere’d they go? Twenty yearsI don’t knowSit and I wonder sometimesWhere they’ve gone"
At the mouth of the stunning canyon we had lunch in the sun at the mighty Colorado.
"And sometimes late at nightWhen I’m bathed in the firelightThe moon comes callin’ a ghostly whiteAnd I recallRecall"
The six mile round trip took us close to 6 hours, including lunch. At the top, we pulled out our camp chairs and enjoyed our cervezas.
It rained all night long.
The next morning we hiked 1500' to the top of the cliffs just north of Lee's Ferry. On top of the Paria Plateau--an intriguing desert of sand dunes and slickrock, we explored and took in the views. To the North we found Lake Powell, the Kaiparowitts Plateau and Navajo Mountain. Directly below the Colorado twisted through the depths Glen Canyon. To the South, Lee's Ferry and the heavy flowing Paria River were in view. The clouded Vermilion Cliffs framed this scene and Marble Canyon could be seen in the distance, snaking it's way towards the Kaibab Plateau. Awesome!!!!!
El Chacal taking in magnificent Glen Canyon
"Like a rock, the sun upon my skinLike a rock, hard against the windLike a rock, I see myself againLike a rock"
The afternoon weather looked good and after much discussion we decided to cautiously go down Jackass that afternoon. After heading down a sandy wash it started to sprinkle. Cliff walls then formed, and after two miles we reached a 30' drop off into some beautiful narrows. There was much water in the creek bed and a gushing waterfall had formed. The wet rock looked much too dangerous. At best, we would get soaked going down and then be in the precarious narrows for a mile. It was time to fold them and head back. There would be another day. Maybe.
A slippery thirty foot rap into the narrows of Jackass canyon
A small distance up canyon. Chacal asked "What's that noise" Dingo thought it sounded like a waterfall. El Lobo responded with "UP!"
We quickly climbed 20' up a wall. There was only seconds to spare as a raging river of mud and debris tore down canyon below us.
A half hour later the flow subsided and we were able to hurriedly skirt the canyon and make it back to our vehicle. A huge waterfall of mud continued to drop off the plateau.
At the car we broke out the Guinness and toasted living another day.
We kew the risk and accepted it anyway. It's what we live for.
Not entering the narrows and reacting quickly were the good decisions and we relished them.
We also realized that this event may have been a wake up call.
"Like a rock. standin’ arrow straightLike a rock, chargin’ from the gateLike a rock, carryin’ the weightLike a rock"
Men Behaving Badly
Chacal, for not feeling "comfortable" about dropping 6000' into Nankoweep because of his little case of the sniffles and 14 stitches in his leg.
Chacal, Dingo & El Lobo for electing not to take on the challenge of backpacking into Nankoweep during inclement weather and opting for staying in three different Vermilion Cliffs/Marble Canyon Lodges and drinking muchas cervezas.
Lorenzo for again not making a great adventure due to being afraid of his boss, Ricccccccchhhhhhhhhhard.
Chacal for refusing to drive, even though it was his turn. Note: El Lobo drove to South Rim for South Bass/Boucher.
Chacal for trying to be "just one of the guys" when he is, in fact, a filthy rich Republican, and lives in a 1.7 million dollar home in Paradise Valley.
Dingo for making really "weird noises" while he was sleeping.
El Lobo who could not see in the dark and had difficulty finding his way to the bathroom six times one night, bumping into the beds of Dingo and Chacal.
Chacal and Dingo, rico, uncaring Republicans that attacked a very nice, intelligent, caring, liberal young man in the Cliff Dweller's Lodge.
Chacal and Dingo, rico, uncaring Republicans that conspired against the moderate El Lobo during the paper, fist, rock contests, relegating poor El Lobo to the shitty roll away bed with no blankets.
El Lobo for flaunting all his new canyoneering gear. Chacal for being a jealous rico Republican and wanting it all.
Dingo for wearing a bright red ultralight rain jacket over his "Blue Boobies" T-shirt. This event ended his streak of wearing the same Hawaiian Brown Dirt Shirt for 678 straight times.
Chacal for not hiring El Lobo as his crack salesman after El Lobo aced the brutal interview administered by the inebriated Chacal on the backroad from Rider Canyon.
The waitress (Thing) at the Vermilion Cliff's Lodge with the huge gut, and pants down to her asshole, that attacked the rico Republican Chacal, and left him speechless.
El Lobo for greeting all outdoorsmen at the lodge restaurants with "You guys been fishin?" (Lee's Ferry is one of the primo places in the world to trout fish)
Chacal's famous quote "Because I don't want to die" in response to "Why don't you want to go down Jackass Canyon today." Chacal later revised his thinking to "Let's seize the opportunity." Did he learn to shift his position from that dirty liberal Democrat, Kerry?
Chacal the rico Republican, for wearing his Grateful Dead T-shirt for the 25th straight time.
Chacal, possibly the most prolific farter that ever hiked the Grand Canyon for a very weak and disappointing performance.
Chacal, and Dingo for "mmmmmmmmmmmmmming" the cowgirl with the bodacious TA Tas at the gas station in Camp Verde.
Thanks to Dingo Dan for driving.
Edward Abbey
Escaladores del canons:
Chacal
Dingo Dan
El Lobo Grande
Canyoneering can be dangerous. It presents a unique set of challenges with associated risks. Our group elected to forego a Nankoweep backpack, dropping 6000' because of a storm front and Chacal's health. (More on this in Men Behaving Badly Section)
Our alternative plan was to do Marble Canyon day trips down Rider and Jackass Canyons to the Colorado River/Grand Canyon. We also planned on climbing the Vermilion Cliffs via the Spencer Trail at Lee's Ferry. The slot canyons in these areas are beautiful, but can be extremely dangerous when it rains. Hikers have been killed in flash floods generated by thunderstorms as far as 25 miles away.
We took these risks seriously, but elected to take them one canyon at a time, study our maps for escape routes, watch for changes in the weather, stay extremely alert and make good decisions before entering any narrows.
In Jackass Canyon, we made an excellent decision and reacted quickly. A high sense of awareness and playing it smart enabled us to get out of the path of the grim reaper and to canyoneer another day.
"Like a rock, I was strong as I could beLike a rock, nothin’ ever got to meLike a rock, I was something to seeLike a rock"
We were able to easily find scenic, remote, Rider Canyon after 14 miles of driving backroads in House Rock Valley. We encountered a beautiful herd of pronghorn antelopes along the way.
It was a steep descent to the bottom through the Kaibab Sandstone. Once in the canyon bottom, several falls and pools presented route problems that were easily resolved. A 20' rappel and a 5.1 downclimb was required over slippery rock.
"Twenty years nowWhere’d they go? Twenty yearsI don’t knowSit and I wonder sometimesWhere they’ve gone"
At the mouth of the stunning canyon we had lunch in the sun at the mighty Colorado.
"And sometimes late at nightWhen I’m bathed in the firelightThe moon comes callin’ a ghostly whiteAnd I recallRecall"
The six mile round trip took us close to 6 hours, including lunch. At the top, we pulled out our camp chairs and enjoyed our cervezas.
It rained all night long.
The next morning we hiked 1500' to the top of the cliffs just north of Lee's Ferry. On top of the Paria Plateau--an intriguing desert of sand dunes and slickrock, we explored and took in the views. To the North we found Lake Powell, the Kaiparowitts Plateau and Navajo Mountain. Directly below the Colorado twisted through the depths Glen Canyon. To the South, Lee's Ferry and the heavy flowing Paria River were in view. The clouded Vermilion Cliffs framed this scene and Marble Canyon could be seen in the distance, snaking it's way towards the Kaibab Plateau. Awesome!!!!!
El Chacal taking in magnificent Glen Canyon
"Like a rock, the sun upon my skinLike a rock, hard against the windLike a rock, I see myself againLike a rock"
The afternoon weather looked good and after much discussion we decided to cautiously go down Jackass that afternoon. After heading down a sandy wash it started to sprinkle. Cliff walls then formed, and after two miles we reached a 30' drop off into some beautiful narrows. There was much water in the creek bed and a gushing waterfall had formed. The wet rock looked much too dangerous. At best, we would get soaked going down and then be in the precarious narrows for a mile. It was time to fold them and head back. There would be another day. Maybe.
A slippery thirty foot rap into the narrows of Jackass canyon
A small distance up canyon. Chacal asked "What's that noise" Dingo thought it sounded like a waterfall. El Lobo responded with "UP!"
We quickly climbed 20' up a wall. There was only seconds to spare as a raging river of mud and debris tore down canyon below us.
A half hour later the flow subsided and we were able to hurriedly skirt the canyon and make it back to our vehicle. A huge waterfall of mud continued to drop off the plateau.
At the car we broke out the Guinness and toasted living another day.
We kew the risk and accepted it anyway. It's what we live for.
Not entering the narrows and reacting quickly were the good decisions and we relished them.
We also realized that this event may have been a wake up call.
"Like a rock. standin’ arrow straightLike a rock, chargin’ from the gateLike a rock, carryin’ the weightLike a rock"
Men Behaving Badly
Chacal, for not feeling "comfortable" about dropping 6000' into Nankoweep because of his little case of the sniffles and 14 stitches in his leg.
Chacal, Dingo & El Lobo for electing not to take on the challenge of backpacking into Nankoweep during inclement weather and opting for staying in three different Vermilion Cliffs/Marble Canyon Lodges and drinking muchas cervezas.
Lorenzo for again not making a great adventure due to being afraid of his boss, Ricccccccchhhhhhhhhhard.
Chacal for refusing to drive, even though it was his turn. Note: El Lobo drove to South Rim for South Bass/Boucher.
Chacal for trying to be "just one of the guys" when he is, in fact, a filthy rich Republican, and lives in a 1.7 million dollar home in Paradise Valley.
Dingo for making really "weird noises" while he was sleeping.
El Lobo who could not see in the dark and had difficulty finding his way to the bathroom six times one night, bumping into the beds of Dingo and Chacal.
Chacal and Dingo, rico, uncaring Republicans that attacked a very nice, intelligent, caring, liberal young man in the Cliff Dweller's Lodge.
Chacal and Dingo, rico, uncaring Republicans that conspired against the moderate El Lobo during the paper, fist, rock contests, relegating poor El Lobo to the shitty roll away bed with no blankets.
El Lobo for flaunting all his new canyoneering gear. Chacal for being a jealous rico Republican and wanting it all.
Dingo for wearing a bright red ultralight rain jacket over his "Blue Boobies" T-shirt. This event ended his streak of wearing the same Hawaiian Brown Dirt Shirt for 678 straight times.
Chacal for not hiring El Lobo as his crack salesman after El Lobo aced the brutal interview administered by the inebriated Chacal on the backroad from Rider Canyon.
The waitress (Thing) at the Vermilion Cliff's Lodge with the huge gut, and pants down to her asshole, that attacked the rico Republican Chacal, and left him speechless.
El Lobo for greeting all outdoorsmen at the lodge restaurants with "You guys been fishin?" (Lee's Ferry is one of the primo places in the world to trout fish)
Chacal's famous quote "Because I don't want to die" in response to "Why don't you want to go down Jackass Canyon today." Chacal later revised his thinking to "Let's seize the opportunity." Did he learn to shift his position from that dirty liberal Democrat, Kerry?
Chacal the rico Republican, for wearing his Grateful Dead T-shirt for the 25th straight time.
Chacal, possibly the most prolific farter that ever hiked the Grand Canyon for a very weak and disappointing performance.
Chacal, and Dingo for "mmmmmmmmmmmmmming" the cowgirl with the bodacious TA Tas at the gas station in Camp Verde.
Thanks to Dingo Dan for driving.
11/13/2003
Rainbow Bridge-Hiyah!
"Hiyah!""Through rain & wind & weather,Hell bent for leather""Hiyah!"------RawhideSouth Rainbow trail-27 miles round trip-(Requires a Navajo Permit)Rainbow Bridge was recently included in National Geographic's Adventure magazine -"Extreme America - 50-places like nowhere else on Earth."Rainbow Bridge (PIC by ZO)El Lobo has roamed to most of these places but had not hiked into Rainbow. Compulsive behavior required checking this one off the list.Los Vaqueros-Zo (The Good) El Lobo (The Bad) Dingo Dan (The Ugly)This is a spectacular trail through some of the most rugged and magnificent redrock wilderness in the United States, to a world famous 275' natural span-Rainbow Bridge. The trail flanks 10,400' Navajo Mountain, considered sacred by the traditional members of the Navajo Nation. It meanders through extraordinary watery canyons.The tres amigos left Friday evening at 5:00 P.M. and stopped in Flagstaff for dinner. Much later, we were delayed on Navaho Rt. 98 by a fatal crash. A flipped truck lay on the side of the road. Sadly, some did not make it home that night. Such is life on the Rez.. This is not the first time that we have come upon a serious accident on Navajo land on Friday night. We took the dirt Navajo Mountain Road for 33 miles and could not find the fork that would take us to the ruins of the Navajo Lodge where the trail begins. At 1:00 in the morning we threw out our sleeping bags in the desert and crashed.The next morning we got up at first light and jumped back in the SUV in hot pursuit of our destination somewhere in the maze of Navajo back roads.As the sun rose over Navajo Mountain, the theme song from the Good, Bad & the Ugly plugged us into the adventure.With a little light, the Dingo Man with his trusty topo map was able to get us to the ruins.Rainbow Lodge was built in the 30s and provided guided pack trips to the bridge before the flooding of Glen Canyon by Lake Powell. This allowed for boat tours to access to the bridge via the water.Today, there are two types of people that visit the bridge.-The few, that pack it in with the big iron on their hips.(Those that shoot)-The smart, that go by boat and return to cervezas.(Those that talk)At the ruins we enjoyed a mouth watering breakfast of spicy tamales that Zo had bought from a family, outside a gas station in Flagstaff. They were the best ever!We hid some water for a long walk out, (survival) in the event that the vehicle's gas tank was siphoned, or the tires removed. This happens sometimes, as it does elsewhere.We started with heavy packs, each of us carrying in excess of a gallon of water, not expecting to find any along the way as per the "quality" information provided to us by the professionally incompetent Rainbow Bridge National Monument people. Paladin, Paladin Where do you roam?The first five miles we experienced many exhausting ups and downs while crossing the arms of First and Horse Canyons. At Sunset Pass we caught an astounding view of Cliff Canyon, 1600' below. The two mile descent into Cliff is difficult, steep and rocky, but we found the lower reaches to be real purty.Cool Clear WaterAt mile 8 we found flowing springs and several large pools of water. After cursing the knowledgeable volunteers at the National Monument we set up camp in this scenic area. Our original plan was to hike all 13 miles to Lake Powell. Finding water allowed us to day hike (without heavy packs) to the bridge and back the following day.El PasoOur day hike took us over Redbud Pass into extraordinary Redbud Canyon, a slot canyon framed by towering red rock cliffs.Flowing water was plentiful practically the whole distance to the bridge. We stopped at Echo Camp just before Rainbow Bridge, a cowboy camp with two good springs.Cowboy Camp (PIC by ZO)From here it is an easy flat walk to Rainbow Bridge which is carved out of Navajo sandstone, among the largest formations of its kind in the world.Rainbow Bridge (PIC by ZO)At Rainbow Bridge we relaxed and chatted with the tourists who had walked the 1/4 mile from their boat on the lake. You are my sunshineA deadly heat wave had come in and an early start was necessary. The following day we rose at 4:00 a.m. and began the arduous climb, with a full moon providing all the light that we needed. Dingo did an outstanding job of keeping us on course until daylight crept over the ridgeline. Heckel & Jeckel (PIC by ZO)High NoonWe arrived back at the car close to noon, delighted to find Zo's rig intact. We set up our camp chairs, cracked open the cervezas, cranked up the car stereo, and listened to the Spirits of the West.As we passed through Flag we looked for the family selling Tamales but to no avail. We stopped at Busters for dinner.Back in the Saddle AgainWe arrived home Monday evening, in time to see the Red Sox beat the hated Yankees.This was another outstanding adventure with the best of the best. Thanks to Zo for driving. The overall trip rating is a 9.9. We all agreed to return next year and hike the seldom used and extreme North Rainbow trail that starts in Cha Canyon, skirts the North side of Navajo Mountain through Bald Rock, Nasja, and Oak Canyons to the bridge. Hiyah!!!Hombres Actuar Gravemente (Men Behaving Badly Section)-Dingo Dan for badgering El Lobo to tutor him on naughty Spanish words. El Lobo had just happened to pick up a copy of "Street Spanish" only to develop a better appreciation for exactly how colorful the Spanish language truly is.-ZO for again flaunting his gear. This time he was sporting a new REI rainproof, wind resistant light jacket.-Zo & Dingo Dan, AKA "The Rainier Boys," who had gotten soft since their Rainier summit and stopped frequently, acting like they were just enjoying the view. They then accused El Lobo of enjoying their pain and kicking their young asses on the climb out.-Dingo Dan for listening to "The Hanging Tree" over and over and over again.-Zo and Dingo Dan for whining about El Lobo's consumption of tuna and subsequent Happy Trails lethal gas attacks.Don't fence me in--
10/15/2003
Rolling Stones
“Time is on my side, yes it is”
The “Forty Licks” tour stop in Phoenix was one of the mothers of all concerts that I have attended (#422) and Mother’s Little Helpers were focused and near perfect. Rolling Stones concerts have been called the greatest show on earth and I agree. Clearly, Mick Jagger is the best front man that the business has seen, and many consider the Stones the greatest Rock and Roll Band of all time. Others would argue that Led Zeppelin deserves that honor but my vote goes to the Stones.
The British group was formed when I was a sophomore in high school—and getting no satisfaction. Two years later “ I Can’t Get No Satisfaction” became the Stones’ first number one hit and an anthem for all young frustrated guys.
The Rolling Stones, who were heavily influenced by American rhythm and blues, took their name from a Muddy Waters’ song. The guys were the original “bad boys” of Rock and Roll.
The Rolling Stones were woven into the fabric of my misspent youth. There are so many memories, such as returning from a draft physical in Oakland on a bus filled with Reno boys. Ralph Gabrazano had his portable radio cranked up to “Paint it Black”
Every guy on the bus was singing (screaming) and beating their hands on the seats in tune with the music. When my girl friend dumped on me I would silently hum “Don’t play with me cause your playing with fire.”
Forty years later my concert partner and mate, Gerry, are at America West Arena seeing them in concert. Remarkable!
Forty years and forty albums released. Eight number one hits!
Mick Jagger, Keith Richard, and Charlie Watts were there from the beginning. Mick and Keith are both pushing 60. Ron Wood has been a Stone for thirty years. Original band member Brian Jones was found dead in his swimming pool in 1969. The official coroner’s report listed his death as a result of “misadventure.”
In the 60s, before they appeared on his show, Ed Sullivan ordered Mick Jagger to sing “Lets spend some time together” instead of the original lyric “Lets spend the night together.”
At a free concert at Altamount Speedway in California, a nightmarish murder committed by Hell’s Angels hired as security guards occurred in front of the stage while the group played “Sympathy for the Devil.”
Over the years there has been a long list of drug busts. But things have changed. The bad boys are focused and solid. They are filling arenas wherever they go and have amassed enough wealth to be on the cover of Fortune magazine.
Tickets to see the legends were expensive. But like a birder wanting a rare bird sighting for his lifelong list, El Lobo needed this rare gem for his lifelong concert list. So we paid the price. And it was worth every penny!
This concert at America West Arena has been sold out for months. The lights went out and thousands of red and blue battery powered flashing tongue pins filled the arena. Mick and Keith opened the show with Street Fighting Man. The roar was deafening.
The ageless Jagger pranced throughout the show. Gerry commented that he moved like a man 35 years younger. He started the show wearing a blue jacket and ended in tank top. He demonstrated incredible fitness while he danced and flung his wiry body and well sculpted arms around. The show was astronomical energy from start to finish. Keith Richards smiled throughout the performance and all band members seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their work. Their timeless sound was superb.
The first part of the show they played mostly new stuff, including their latest single release “Don’t Stop.” It went down real smooth. The second part was all about old classics. We really enjoyed their upbeat version of Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone”
They finished with “Jumpin Jack Flash, and by this time the crowd of, mostly, bad boys and girls in their 30s 40s and 50s, were in a frenzy. We would have liked to hear more of their old classics but they could play only a fraction in the terrific two hours that they played. The four old friends who have sustained their close relationship took numerous curtain calls for the appreciative crowd.
This was an alcohol free concert for Ger and I (the limitations of our diets and fitness regimen). We agreed that we would not let that happen again. Therefore it would be hard to rate this concert compared to the other 441 that I have seen that were far from alcohol free. It is definitely in my top 10.
Thanks for the gifts, guys, I can’t imagine this life’s journey without the Stones.
“I know it’s only Rock and Roll, but I like it” sums up it all up.
“Don’t stop!”
Veteran Cosmic Rocker
The “Forty Licks” tour stop in Phoenix was one of the mothers of all concerts that I have attended (#422) and Mother’s Little Helpers were focused and near perfect. Rolling Stones concerts have been called the greatest show on earth and I agree. Clearly, Mick Jagger is the best front man that the business has seen, and many consider the Stones the greatest Rock and Roll Band of all time. Others would argue that Led Zeppelin deserves that honor but my vote goes to the Stones.
The British group was formed when I was a sophomore in high school—and getting no satisfaction. Two years later “ I Can’t Get No Satisfaction” became the Stones’ first number one hit and an anthem for all young frustrated guys.
The Rolling Stones, who were heavily influenced by American rhythm and blues, took their name from a Muddy Waters’ song. The guys were the original “bad boys” of Rock and Roll.
The Rolling Stones were woven into the fabric of my misspent youth. There are so many memories, such as returning from a draft physical in Oakland on a bus filled with Reno boys. Ralph Gabrazano had his portable radio cranked up to “Paint it Black”
Every guy on the bus was singing (screaming) and beating their hands on the seats in tune with the music. When my girl friend dumped on me I would silently hum “Don’t play with me cause your playing with fire.”
Forty years later my concert partner and mate, Gerry, are at America West Arena seeing them in concert. Remarkable!
Forty years and forty albums released. Eight number one hits!
Mick Jagger, Keith Richard, and Charlie Watts were there from the beginning. Mick and Keith are both pushing 60. Ron Wood has been a Stone for thirty years. Original band member Brian Jones was found dead in his swimming pool in 1969. The official coroner’s report listed his death as a result of “misadventure.”
In the 60s, before they appeared on his show, Ed Sullivan ordered Mick Jagger to sing “Lets spend some time together” instead of the original lyric “Lets spend the night together.”
At a free concert at Altamount Speedway in California, a nightmarish murder committed by Hell’s Angels hired as security guards occurred in front of the stage while the group played “Sympathy for the Devil.”
Over the years there has been a long list of drug busts. But things have changed. The bad boys are focused and solid. They are filling arenas wherever they go and have amassed enough wealth to be on the cover of Fortune magazine.
Tickets to see the legends were expensive. But like a birder wanting a rare bird sighting for his lifelong list, El Lobo needed this rare gem for his lifelong concert list. So we paid the price. And it was worth every penny!
This concert at America West Arena has been sold out for months. The lights went out and thousands of red and blue battery powered flashing tongue pins filled the arena. Mick and Keith opened the show with Street Fighting Man. The roar was deafening.
The ageless Jagger pranced throughout the show. Gerry commented that he moved like a man 35 years younger. He started the show wearing a blue jacket and ended in tank top. He demonstrated incredible fitness while he danced and flung his wiry body and well sculpted arms around. The show was astronomical energy from start to finish. Keith Richards smiled throughout the performance and all band members seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their work. Their timeless sound was superb.
The first part of the show they played mostly new stuff, including their latest single release “Don’t Stop.” It went down real smooth. The second part was all about old classics. We really enjoyed their upbeat version of Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone”
They finished with “Jumpin Jack Flash, and by this time the crowd of, mostly, bad boys and girls in their 30s 40s and 50s, were in a frenzy. We would have liked to hear more of their old classics but they could play only a fraction in the terrific two hours that they played. The four old friends who have sustained their close relationship took numerous curtain calls for the appreciative crowd.
This was an alcohol free concert for Ger and I (the limitations of our diets and fitness regimen). We agreed that we would not let that happen again. Therefore it would be hard to rate this concert compared to the other 441 that I have seen that were far from alcohol free. It is definitely in my top 10.
Thanks for the gifts, guys, I can’t imagine this life’s journey without the Stones.
“I know it’s only Rock and Roll, but I like it” sums up it all up.
“Don’t stop!”
Veteran Cosmic Rocker
Kelly & Pumphouse Wash Canyons
Caving without roofs-Kelly & Pumphouse Wash Canyons-
I love wild canyons,--dry fragrant, stone walled, with their greenchoked-niches and gold tipped ramparts.Zane GreyUSA Weekend featured Sissy Sedona as their number one pick of our country'sten most beautiful spots. Although I am not in agreement with theirselection(s) I do think that the surrounding area's telegenic canyons arespecial. That is why we returned to the canyons of the Mogollon Rim forthe third time in the past month.Excursionistas DE canonDingo DanEl LoboZoWell fed, pampered "I can't go" guysJohn DA JackalJake DA snakeDingo Dan put together a plan to explore two of the three major headwatercanyons of Oak Creek--Kelly and Pumphouse. The third, James Canyon requiresrappelling and swimming. It is best suited for much warmer weather, as thedeep dark pools are icy cold.Our route involved shuttling two vehicles.Kelly Canyon was an easy walk along a game trail through most of thecanyon. Dingo and Dan practiced climbing on various limestone rock faces.It is a nice four mile walk, along old growth ponderosa pines, firs andaspens.(Embedded image moved to file: pic24010.jpg)Kelly Canyon-PIC by ZoPumphouse Wash offers a bit more of a challenge. Pumphouse is essentiallyupper Oak Creek Canyon. We had a boulder hop for about the first two milesbefore coming to a 15 foot waterfall and large pool below it. A dead Elkwas submerged in the pool. This is the second weekend in a row that we havecome upon a dead elk in water.(Embedded image moved to file: pic23325.jpg)One of many pools-PIC by ZoAbout 1/2 mile below the falls, James Canyon comes in from the West.Here the canyon deepens, with sheer rock faces of Coconino sandstone, firand maple trees covering the slopes. This contrast creates a scenic, lush,backdrop. A variety of colorful butterflies added to the splendor.We came across numerous pools, alive with frogs, and a water snake. We wereable to climb on the shelf around most of them, but a couple requiredwading. The water was so cold that it numbed my entire body. You would notlast long in these pools. We will bring wet suits when we do James.We came into a section of slot narrows and climbed along the top.(Embedded image moved to file: pic06754.jpg)Slot Narrows-PIC by ZoZo spotted a couple of owls on a dead tree branch. This was quite asurprise as these magnificent creatures are nocturnal.(Embedded image moved to file: pic19243.jpg)Hooters-PIC by ZOAfter five miles through Pumphouse, we came out on Highway 89A close to oneof our shuttled vehicles, and drove to the second vehicle parked nine milessouth of Flag. Here we set up our customary PUB with camp chairs andenjoyed a few Pacificos.We drove back to Phoenix and had dinner with Gerry and my good friend JohnKing at Carlsbad Tavern, a New Mexican restaurant.John was visiting from Walnut Creek and participating in a Masters swimmeet at ASU. The food and company were estupendo!Men Behaving Badly:El Lobo for trying to stiff the national government out of the Red Rockparking permit. ( because it's a Republican administration)Zo for whining, I can't do that, I might fall into the water and get mycamera wet.Dingo for thinking he is a world class climber but can only climb up threefeet and then fall to the ground with exhausted arms.Dingo for forgetting his socks in the shuttle vehicle, borrowing Lobosextra pair, wearing them all day and then throwing the sweaty, mud soaked,smelly gross items in Lobo's lap, saying "here, sniff these!"Dingo for being paranoid that "the mighty wind" might blow in his wife'scar. He repeated and whined several times, "Now don't do it in Jean's car,she warned me, and I don't want to get in trouble!"
I love wild canyons,--dry fragrant, stone walled, with their greenchoked-niches and gold tipped ramparts.Zane GreyUSA Weekend featured Sissy Sedona as their number one pick of our country'sten most beautiful spots. Although I am not in agreement with theirselection(s) I do think that the surrounding area's telegenic canyons arespecial. That is why we returned to the canyons of the Mogollon Rim forthe third time in the past month.Excursionistas DE canonDingo DanEl LoboZoWell fed, pampered "I can't go" guysJohn DA JackalJake DA snakeDingo Dan put together a plan to explore two of the three major headwatercanyons of Oak Creek--Kelly and Pumphouse. The third, James Canyon requiresrappelling and swimming. It is best suited for much warmer weather, as thedeep dark pools are icy cold.Our route involved shuttling two vehicles.Kelly Canyon was an easy walk along a game trail through most of thecanyon. Dingo and Dan practiced climbing on various limestone rock faces.It is a nice four mile walk, along old growth ponderosa pines, firs andaspens.(Embedded image moved to file: pic24010.jpg)Kelly Canyon-PIC by ZoPumphouse Wash offers a bit more of a challenge. Pumphouse is essentiallyupper Oak Creek Canyon. We had a boulder hop for about the first two milesbefore coming to a 15 foot waterfall and large pool below it. A dead Elkwas submerged in the pool. This is the second weekend in a row that we havecome upon a dead elk in water.(Embedded image moved to file: pic23325.jpg)One of many pools-PIC by ZoAbout 1/2 mile below the falls, James Canyon comes in from the West.Here the canyon deepens, with sheer rock faces of Coconino sandstone, firand maple trees covering the slopes. This contrast creates a scenic, lush,backdrop. A variety of colorful butterflies added to the splendor.We came across numerous pools, alive with frogs, and a water snake. We wereable to climb on the shelf around most of them, but a couple requiredwading. The water was so cold that it numbed my entire body. You would notlast long in these pools. We will bring wet suits when we do James.We came into a section of slot narrows and climbed along the top.(Embedded image moved to file: pic06754.jpg)Slot Narrows-PIC by ZoZo spotted a couple of owls on a dead tree branch. This was quite asurprise as these magnificent creatures are nocturnal.(Embedded image moved to file: pic19243.jpg)Hooters-PIC by ZOAfter five miles through Pumphouse, we came out on Highway 89A close to oneof our shuttled vehicles, and drove to the second vehicle parked nine milessouth of Flag. Here we set up our customary PUB with camp chairs andenjoyed a few Pacificos.We drove back to Phoenix and had dinner with Gerry and my good friend JohnKing at Carlsbad Tavern, a New Mexican restaurant.John was visiting from Walnut Creek and participating in a Masters swimmeet at ASU. The food and company were estupendo!Men Behaving Badly:El Lobo for trying to stiff the national government out of the Red Rockparking permit. ( because it's a Republican administration)Zo for whining, I can't do that, I might fall into the water and get mycamera wet.Dingo for thinking he is a world class climber but can only climb up threefeet and then fall to the ground with exhausted arms.Dingo for forgetting his socks in the shuttle vehicle, borrowing Lobosextra pair, wearing them all day and then throwing the sweaty, mud soaked,smelly gross items in Lobo's lap, saying "here, sniff these!"Dingo for being paranoid that "the mighty wind" might blow in his wife'scar. He repeated and whined several times, "Now don't do it in Jean's car,she warned me, and I don't want to get in trouble!"
10/13/2003
Rincons-Tucson
"There are two types of people in this world. Those that have guns, andthose that dig."Blondie (The Good- Clint Eastwood) to Tuco (The Ugly -Eli Wallich) in thegraveyard.Que pasa amigos,Como estas tu?February and March are primo Arizona months. The weather is absolutelyperfect for an outside adventure.The young hombres were getting a little soft around the middle andrequested that El Lobo plan a challenging viaje. El hijo, Jacobo, amigoLorennzo and Lobo departed for the Old Pueblo (Tucson) temprano las cuatroy treinta de la manana (very early) for what would be a long day.A bald eagle has been nesting just outside of Tucson and two jaguars wererecently sighted and filmed south of town. We spotted a cardinal and acoyote on the way to the trailhead.We started our trek at the Tanque Verde trailhead in Saguaro National Parkand for seven hours followed the strenuous and sometimes torturous routefollowing Tanque Verde ridge to 7049-foot Tanque Verde Peak. We logged 18miles and close to 10,000 feet of elevation gain/loss. Mucho dulce-(Kit KatBars and Snickers) were consumed to take the painful edge off the trip.Along the way the trail winds among tall saguaros, climbs wildflower dottedslopes, and passes through delightful forests of oak, pinyon and juniper. Iabsolutely love this blend of ecosystems! We passed through beautifulJuniper Basin Campground (5900') where there were several pockets of water.This would be a superb spot for an overnight. There were only small patchesof snow along the higher elevations unlike the Rincon Peak hike last yearat this time where we had to plow through waste high powder for the last ½mile to the summit.Tanque Verde Peak requires a bit of a tricky climb the last 20 feet, butaffords a commanding view of Tucson and the Rincon Mountains back-country.Included in this 360 degree panoramic view are the Santa Rita and HuachucaMountains, the little Rincons, the Galiuro and Santa Catalina Mountains andthe city of Tucson.The climb back to the trailhead was arduous but both Jacobo and Zo arestrong hikers and we made excellent time. The Pacifico cervezas at Zo'scarro were excellente treatment for our sore and tired feet.The Rincons offer a wonderful remote back-country experience, close to ametropolitan area. I rate this hike a solid 9.The hike was only half the adventure as we stopped in the Old HotelCongress in downtown on our way to El Minuto for dinner. In the spirit ofadventure, Lobo changed into his cowboy attire.The Old Congress is really a funky enjoyable historic establishment.John Dillinger was apprehended in this hotel. The atmosphere is one out ofthe 40s.The eclectic, crowded bar served Schlitz, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Old Style.The cliental was something similar to the characters in the Star Wars barscene or those that frequent Warsaw Wally's in downtown Phoenix.We made numerous friends, one being Gerine, a Supai woman that many yearsago, demonstrated great courage and left the land of blue/green waterfallsin the Grand Canyon to get an education at the U of A.She requested R E S P E C T by Aretha on the jukebox filled with fineselections. Sadly, she left the reservation for a better life andapparently spends much time wasted at the Old Congress bar.In the corner of the bar, one gentleman gave us hard looks and continuouslygrowled like a wild animal.Bobby, a Russian immigrant was drinking beer glass size tumblers of Vodkaand humming a Rusky classic.When informed that "El Lobo Grande" was present, the bar managerresponded with an impressed "No shit!" A couple of Hell's Angels hoistedtheir glasses for a toast.It was fun!If you are in Tucson don't miss this slice of diverse life. You won't findit in a five star hotel.It was years ago when Gerry and I stayed in the same Hotel, when we weregiven a tip from locals in the bar about El Minuto, the best Mexicanrestaurant in the Universe. An establishment where you will have a hardtime finding touristas.Since that time I don't miss a meal at El Minuto when I am close to the OldPueblo. Saturday evening was no exception, as the three of us greedilydevoured the tasty specials and superb margaritas. After dinner we visiteda religious shrine next door.Tres hombres arrived back in Phoenix en tarde but safe, thanks to Lorenzo,road warrior extraordinaire. The trip and company was excellent, Ithorougly enjoyed the time we shared.Adventure rating 9.9
The very popularMEN BEHAVING BADLY SECTIONEl Lobo, busted at the trailhead by a ranger for merely marking histerritory.Jacobo, constantly upsetting the serenity on the trail by yellingGEEEEZZ when his keen sense of smell detected an odorous wind.Jacobo, at mile 17, promising himself to never hike again. At least he quitat the end of the hike and not ½ way like Steve Yahner, at Nankoweep GrandCanyon.Lorenzo, making large cat type sounds on the trail after weak emissions.Question:
Where's Steve?Answer: Napping in Scottsdale after a huge breakfast of Jimmy Dean's purepork sausage.
The very popularMEN BEHAVING BADLY SECTIONEl Lobo, busted at the trailhead by a ranger for merely marking histerritory.Jacobo, constantly upsetting the serenity on the trail by yellingGEEEEZZ when his keen sense of smell detected an odorous wind.Jacobo, at mile 17, promising himself to never hike again. At least he quitat the end of the hike and not ½ way like Steve Yahner, at Nankoweep GrandCanyon.Lorenzo, making large cat type sounds on the trail after weak emissions.Question:
Where's Steve?Answer: Napping in Scottsdale after a huge breakfast of Jimmy Dean's purepork sausage.
Indian Maid Route-Grand Canyon
“Like a Rock, I’m going to roll over you”
Rock N’ Roll over you-Moody Blues –1986
Indian Maid Route (rim to Little Colorado)
Estimated distance: 1 mile. Total estimated elevation gain: 2000 feet
Be afraid, be very afraid.
After a good night of climbing at the Phoenix Rock Gym, Zo Dingo and I met at our Tempe after climb hang out. Over margaritas and cervezas we worked out the final details for our Saturday adventure trip to the Little Colorado River Gorge at the Grand Canyon .In December, Dingo had climbed the Indian Maid route down cliffs and through cracks with a couple of Grand Canyon warriors. He was confident that he could negotiate the maze of back roads on the Navajo reservation, locate our entry point and find the passage to the river. Zo was enthusiastic. The posted cerveza special for Sabado was Rolling Rock. This was not a good sign.
I was concerned, very concerned. After all, this looked like a class five free climb with no safety devices. The pictures and the description clearly reflected a very steep, dangerous, route with much potential for rock fall and exposure. In addition, this drop drains a large area on the mesa top when rain could turn the passage into a flash flood death trap.
Why was I going? I had cashed in my chips and gotten out of the business of extreme canyoneering. This adrenaline junkie went through treatment and was cured.
Needing a little comfort, I went home and wolved down two large pieces of chocolate cake and an ice cream sandwich before going to bed. Those guys are crazy! I’m not going.
We left my house Sabada manana at five A.M. equipped with four Jerky Boys CDs.
It would be a long ride and needed some intellectual stimulation. Personal growth is always a side benefit on these trips.
After three hours we were slowly driving through a thick layer of fog on Highway 89. This was not a good sign. Fifteen miles into the Navajo outback, visibility was zero and we did not have a clue as to our location. And then, Wallah! The fog lifted and we had a magnificent view of the snow capped rim. This was a good sign! Or, was it? The snow on the rim probably meant wet rock below.
We passed a Hogan, Dingo recognized the landmarks and was able to follow his road log to the point of entry.
We walked down a dry wash and reached a steep pour off. I looked down the 500’ sheer drop off and casually screamed “ No *@**&%ing way! The Dingo man just smiled and headed West to a steep narrow crack. Zo gleefully followed. Here we descended into the abyss. All the rock was crumbly and you could not trust any hand holds or foot plants. The crack gradually widened where we down climbed over rubble and boulders through steep ravines. We constantly heard falling rock sounds. We descended long and safe distances apart, but as careful as we were, each of us dislodged dangerous boulders that crashed below.
We found some interesting petroglyphs and pot shards on the Coconino layer.
With the benefit of Dingo’s route experience, it took us just two hours to reach the LCR. ( Little Colorado River) It had taken Dingo and his group four hours in December.
The river was running thick with silt and mud from recent rains and looked like gooey Hershey’s chocolate syrup.
We took a break for lunch and took in the solitude in this stark environment. The LCR Gorge is sixty miles from Cameron to the confluence with the Colorado. We were in the middle section. I know of a few that have packed through the gorge.
It is a long lonely journey dealing with quicksand and water issues. Blue Springs is about ten miles down stream. The water there is salty but filterable.
Sala, si usted puede (Get out, if you can)
Dingo and Zo wanted to do a little exploration down stream but they indulged my desire to return without delay. Although physically a lot more demanding, the climb out went smoothly and was a lot of fun. Having route knowledge and in better climbing control went a long ways towards having fun. It took us less than two hours to climb out, again half the time that it took the previous group.
Our cerveza celebration at the rim quickly ended when a couple of Navajos came out of now where in an all terrain vehicle. They were not happy and wanted to know what we were doing there. When we told them that we had climbed down to the river, they looked at us in disbelief. When I mentioned the Indian Maid route they told us we were lost.
They said that over the years they had seen some cars on the rim in Marble canyon and could not understand what anyone would be doing down there.
Once they were convinced that we were not rustling their livestock, they relaxed a bit, and then bid us a friendly farewell. They sped off in search of a lost cow.
On the way out we saw a huge herd of sheep and the attendant sheep herding dog.
The dog saw our vehicle and immediately set chase to escort us away from the herd. Good boy!
We stopped for dinner at Black Canyon City at a café famous for their pie and arrived at my house close to 8:00 P.M.
I rate this adventure a solid 10. It was well planned and executed. Thanks to Dingo and Zo for the time we shared, there are not two better guys to explore with.
Men Behaving Badly:
Dingo Dan for wearing the same Hawaiian dirt shirt and Islands baseball cap yet again. (532 straight outings)
Dingo Dan for again excitedly reminiscing about another old kinky girlfriend.
Dingo Dan for getting very excited when he saw the herd of sheep.
Zo for wearing “girlie” tights under his hiking pants
Zo for his insensitive remark “Lobo you are one rotten dude”
Lobo for his tremendous wind breaking virtuosity in the crack.
Rock N’ Roll over you-Moody Blues –1986
Indian Maid Route (rim to Little Colorado)
Estimated distance: 1 mile. Total estimated elevation gain: 2000 feet
Be afraid, be very afraid.
After a good night of climbing at the Phoenix Rock Gym, Zo Dingo and I met at our Tempe after climb hang out. Over margaritas and cervezas we worked out the final details for our Saturday adventure trip to the Little Colorado River Gorge at the Grand Canyon .In December, Dingo had climbed the Indian Maid route down cliffs and through cracks with a couple of Grand Canyon warriors. He was confident that he could negotiate the maze of back roads on the Navajo reservation, locate our entry point and find the passage to the river. Zo was enthusiastic. The posted cerveza special for Sabado was Rolling Rock. This was not a good sign.
I was concerned, very concerned. After all, this looked like a class five free climb with no safety devices. The pictures and the description clearly reflected a very steep, dangerous, route with much potential for rock fall and exposure. In addition, this drop drains a large area on the mesa top when rain could turn the passage into a flash flood death trap.
Why was I going? I had cashed in my chips and gotten out of the business of extreme canyoneering. This adrenaline junkie went through treatment and was cured.
Needing a little comfort, I went home and wolved down two large pieces of chocolate cake and an ice cream sandwich before going to bed. Those guys are crazy! I’m not going.
We left my house Sabada manana at five A.M. equipped with four Jerky Boys CDs.
It would be a long ride and needed some intellectual stimulation. Personal growth is always a side benefit on these trips.
After three hours we were slowly driving through a thick layer of fog on Highway 89. This was not a good sign. Fifteen miles into the Navajo outback, visibility was zero and we did not have a clue as to our location. And then, Wallah! The fog lifted and we had a magnificent view of the snow capped rim. This was a good sign! Or, was it? The snow on the rim probably meant wet rock below.
We passed a Hogan, Dingo recognized the landmarks and was able to follow his road log to the point of entry.
We walked down a dry wash and reached a steep pour off. I looked down the 500’ sheer drop off and casually screamed “ No *@**&%ing way! The Dingo man just smiled and headed West to a steep narrow crack. Zo gleefully followed. Here we descended into the abyss. All the rock was crumbly and you could not trust any hand holds or foot plants. The crack gradually widened where we down climbed over rubble and boulders through steep ravines. We constantly heard falling rock sounds. We descended long and safe distances apart, but as careful as we were, each of us dislodged dangerous boulders that crashed below.
We found some interesting petroglyphs and pot shards on the Coconino layer.
With the benefit of Dingo’s route experience, it took us just two hours to reach the LCR. ( Little Colorado River) It had taken Dingo and his group four hours in December.
The river was running thick with silt and mud from recent rains and looked like gooey Hershey’s chocolate syrup.
We took a break for lunch and took in the solitude in this stark environment. The LCR Gorge is sixty miles from Cameron to the confluence with the Colorado. We were in the middle section. I know of a few that have packed through the gorge.
It is a long lonely journey dealing with quicksand and water issues. Blue Springs is about ten miles down stream. The water there is salty but filterable.
Sala, si usted puede (Get out, if you can)
Dingo and Zo wanted to do a little exploration down stream but they indulged my desire to return without delay. Although physically a lot more demanding, the climb out went smoothly and was a lot of fun. Having route knowledge and in better climbing control went a long ways towards having fun. It took us less than two hours to climb out, again half the time that it took the previous group.
Our cerveza celebration at the rim quickly ended when a couple of Navajos came out of now where in an all terrain vehicle. They were not happy and wanted to know what we were doing there. When we told them that we had climbed down to the river, they looked at us in disbelief. When I mentioned the Indian Maid route they told us we were lost.
They said that over the years they had seen some cars on the rim in Marble canyon and could not understand what anyone would be doing down there.
Once they were convinced that we were not rustling their livestock, they relaxed a bit, and then bid us a friendly farewell. They sped off in search of a lost cow.
On the way out we saw a huge herd of sheep and the attendant sheep herding dog.
The dog saw our vehicle and immediately set chase to escort us away from the herd. Good boy!
We stopped for dinner at Black Canyon City at a café famous for their pie and arrived at my house close to 8:00 P.M.
I rate this adventure a solid 10. It was well planned and executed. Thanks to Dingo and Zo for the time we shared, there are not two better guys to explore with.
Men Behaving Badly:
Dingo Dan for wearing the same Hawaiian dirt shirt and Islands baseball cap yet again. (532 straight outings)
Dingo Dan for again excitedly reminiscing about another old kinky girlfriend.
Dingo Dan for getting very excited when he saw the herd of sheep.
Zo for wearing “girlie” tights under his hiking pants
Zo for his insensitive remark “Lobo you are one rotten dude”
Lobo for his tremendous wind breaking virtuosity in the crack.
Hopi Salt Trail
Hopi Salt Trail-Grand Canyon
“The longing to be primitive is a disease of culture”.
George Santayana
Hopi Salt Trail-Grand Canyon- Rim to the LCR (Little Colorado River-- Approximately ten miles R/T and 6000’ elevation gain/loss. Access to the trailhead is on the Navajo Reservation and thereby requires a Navajo permit. Finding the trailhead can be a challenge with the maze of side roads. It is 21 miles from Cedar Ridge and you must follow the road log very carefully.
The Salt trail is more of a route than a trail and in some sections it becomes a steep descent requiring some down climbing. The route is well marked with cairns but it is very rough and time consuming.
Cast of characters: (Men behaving badly)
Dingo Dan
Jake the Snake
John DA Jackal
El Lobo Grande
Zo
Now that Spring training is over it is time for some serious canyoneering.
We left Saturday afternoon for the destination of the legendary Hopi Salt Trail to investigate a myth.
When you think of a historical Indian trail you may think of the Inca Trail in South America. Unlike the heavily used Inca Trail, few know of the Hopi Trail and fewer have traveled it. Some locals make the journey when they are on a ritual quest for salt. According to the belief of some Third Mesa Villages, the Grand Canyon contains not only sacred salt beds and shrines but also “Sipapu” the center of creation, or place where humans emerged.
We wanted to investigate the myth.
This group has a routine when we hike the canyon. We stop at Flagstaff for dinner at the Beaver Street Brewery and camp at the Cameron trading Post in one of their beautiful rooms.
In Flag, a beautifully painted George Mancuso memorial on the side of a building, got our attention. George Mancuso was a photographer and Grand Canyon explorer that was killed by a flash flood last year in the next canyon over from the Salt Canyon. About eight years ago he was featured on the cover of Backpacker magazine as a warrior of the Canyon.
At Beaver Street we enjoyed a great dinner and slammed down several Microbrews while we watched (with mixed feeling) the NCAA basketball tournament and numero uno seed University of Arizona go down to Kansas.
The Little Colorado was flowing heavily at Cameron. This meant that our destination at the river would look like thick chocolate syrup flowing instead of the mineralized spectacular blue green water that flows from the Springs.
The following morning:
We finished breakfast at 6:30 A.M. at the Trading Post and headed for Cedar Ridge. We had no problems negotiating the back roads and started on the trail (route) at 8:00 A.M.
The initial descent was steep with some exposure. The Canyon walls however blocked out the lethal sun through the Coconino until we almost reached the canyon floor. It was perfect hiking weather and there was not a cloud in the sky. Potholes were filled with water from recent rains.
The route stayed on ledges through the Supai. It dropped steeply into a drainage at the top of the Redwall and climbed steeply out the other side. We easily located the descent through the break in the Redwall. It was marked with two large cairns. The trail stays above the bottom of the canyon until the river. We arrived at the Little Colorado at 11:00 A.M. three hours after starting.
Brown Sugar
The river was indeed, flowing milk chocolate. We had talked about trekking over to the next canyon to where George had met his fate, but decided against it due to the heavy flow that created a time consuming difficulty factor. We enjoyed a lunch on the beach and relaxed for an hour before starting back up.
We were now totally exposed to the sun and the climb was laborious. Thoughts of our people in Iraq drifted in and out of my head. With that in mind, the climb didn’t seem so difficult.
The views, cool breezes and the water that some had frozen the night before provided relief to the arduous grind. We were out in a little over three hours.
On the rim we celebrated life and our freedom with a cooler full of fine cervezas. John cranked up the Rolling Stones on the stereo while Jacobo, Zo, and Dingo relaxed in camp chairs. John brought baseball gloves and a ball and we played catch on the rim. I have never played catch in a more beautiful setting nor enjoyed it as much. We all appreciated our comradery and the time we had shared together.
Perhaps we had found Sipapu after all.
Overall I rate this adventure as a 9.9. There are not better people than mi amigos to do these adventures with. Thanks to all and particularly John for driving.
Men Behaving Badly:
John Da Jackal, for his thunderous outbursts and trying to kill us with his own brand of lethal gas.
ZO, for flaunting his gear. A declared minimalist that always comes hiking with all the latest and greatest.
Dingo Dan, for finally not wearing the same Hawaian Dirt Shirt for a record 5, 255th time. However his replacement of a Telecom shirt with a picture of a chicken with it’s head cut off gets him a gold star for not flaunting his gear like Zo.
John Da Jackal, for drinking all my Moosehead.
Jake the Snake, for telling stories about “the Doobs” (an old girlfriend of his friend Giddy) and her prolific wind breaking virtuosity.
“The longing to be primitive is a disease of culture”.
George Santayana
Hopi Salt Trail-Grand Canyon- Rim to the LCR (Little Colorado River-- Approximately ten miles R/T and 6000’ elevation gain/loss. Access to the trailhead is on the Navajo Reservation and thereby requires a Navajo permit. Finding the trailhead can be a challenge with the maze of side roads. It is 21 miles from Cedar Ridge and you must follow the road log very carefully.
The Salt trail is more of a route than a trail and in some sections it becomes a steep descent requiring some down climbing. The route is well marked with cairns but it is very rough and time consuming.
Cast of characters: (Men behaving badly)
Dingo Dan
Jake the Snake
John DA Jackal
El Lobo Grande
Zo
Now that Spring training is over it is time for some serious canyoneering.
We left Saturday afternoon for the destination of the legendary Hopi Salt Trail to investigate a myth.
When you think of a historical Indian trail you may think of the Inca Trail in South America. Unlike the heavily used Inca Trail, few know of the Hopi Trail and fewer have traveled it. Some locals make the journey when they are on a ritual quest for salt. According to the belief of some Third Mesa Villages, the Grand Canyon contains not only sacred salt beds and shrines but also “Sipapu” the center of creation, or place where humans emerged.
We wanted to investigate the myth.
This group has a routine when we hike the canyon. We stop at Flagstaff for dinner at the Beaver Street Brewery and camp at the Cameron trading Post in one of their beautiful rooms.
In Flag, a beautifully painted George Mancuso memorial on the side of a building, got our attention. George Mancuso was a photographer and Grand Canyon explorer that was killed by a flash flood last year in the next canyon over from the Salt Canyon. About eight years ago he was featured on the cover of Backpacker magazine as a warrior of the Canyon.
At Beaver Street we enjoyed a great dinner and slammed down several Microbrews while we watched (with mixed feeling) the NCAA basketball tournament and numero uno seed University of Arizona go down to Kansas.
The Little Colorado was flowing heavily at Cameron. This meant that our destination at the river would look like thick chocolate syrup flowing instead of the mineralized spectacular blue green water that flows from the Springs.
The following morning:
We finished breakfast at 6:30 A.M. at the Trading Post and headed for Cedar Ridge. We had no problems negotiating the back roads and started on the trail (route) at 8:00 A.M.
The initial descent was steep with some exposure. The Canyon walls however blocked out the lethal sun through the Coconino until we almost reached the canyon floor. It was perfect hiking weather and there was not a cloud in the sky. Potholes were filled with water from recent rains.
The route stayed on ledges through the Supai. It dropped steeply into a drainage at the top of the Redwall and climbed steeply out the other side. We easily located the descent through the break in the Redwall. It was marked with two large cairns. The trail stays above the bottom of the canyon until the river. We arrived at the Little Colorado at 11:00 A.M. three hours after starting.
Brown Sugar
The river was indeed, flowing milk chocolate. We had talked about trekking over to the next canyon to where George had met his fate, but decided against it due to the heavy flow that created a time consuming difficulty factor. We enjoyed a lunch on the beach and relaxed for an hour before starting back up.
We were now totally exposed to the sun and the climb was laborious. Thoughts of our people in Iraq drifted in and out of my head. With that in mind, the climb didn’t seem so difficult.
The views, cool breezes and the water that some had frozen the night before provided relief to the arduous grind. We were out in a little over three hours.
On the rim we celebrated life and our freedom with a cooler full of fine cervezas. John cranked up the Rolling Stones on the stereo while Jacobo, Zo, and Dingo relaxed in camp chairs. John brought baseball gloves and a ball and we played catch on the rim. I have never played catch in a more beautiful setting nor enjoyed it as much. We all appreciated our comradery and the time we had shared together.
Perhaps we had found Sipapu after all.
Overall I rate this adventure as a 9.9. There are not better people than mi amigos to do these adventures with. Thanks to all and particularly John for driving.
Men Behaving Badly:
John Da Jackal, for his thunderous outbursts and trying to kill us with his own brand of lethal gas.
ZO, for flaunting his gear. A declared minimalist that always comes hiking with all the latest and greatest.
Dingo Dan, for finally not wearing the same Hawaian Dirt Shirt for a record 5, 255th time. However his replacement of a Telecom shirt with a picture of a chicken with it’s head cut off gets him a gold star for not flaunting his gear like Zo.
John Da Jackal, for drinking all my Moosehead.
Jake the Snake, for telling stories about “the Doobs” (an old girlfriend of his friend Giddy) and her prolific wind breaking virtuosity.
Buffalo River Arkansas
“Take my hand in yours, walk with me this day, in my heart I know, I will never stray”
Neil Diamond- Brother Love’s Traveling Salvation Show-2/69
Hey Bubba,
Just returned from the Ozarks in Arkansas, where folks pack up the babies, grab the old ladies and head for the revival. This is where you consider a six pack of beer and a bug zapper to be quality entertainment.
After landing in Little Rock, I turned my car rental’s radio to one of the many cryin and dyin stations and headed for the Zig Zagg mountains and Hot Springs National Park. Hot Springs was the child hood home of Bubba Clinton. This was our first National Park and unusual in that it is a blend of highly developed park in a small city. It is number 43 of our 54 US National Parks that I plan to visit in my lifetime.
After visiting historic bathhouse row, I returned to Little Rock and found myself a $30 minus five star motel room with a biker bar located conveniently down the street. The Buffalo River, the next day’s driving destination is located in a dry county so the biker bar was my best shot at a beer.
It seemed like a good opportunity to take in some of the local culture and discuss ecosystem protection with the boys.
This establishment had an impressive Confederate flag that spanned the length of the building. I ordered a local beer (BUD) from the bartender, but apparently I needed to be screened, and qualify for service. “You just passin through, son? You ain’t one of those Yankees are ya?” After explaining that I was from Arizona, not a state, but a territory during the civil war, I still did not have my beer. However, when I explained that I was going to a family reunion and viewed it as a great chance to meet some girls, I was finally served.
The next day I headed for the Buffalo River where I would do some volunteer work for the National Park Service, and spend some time fly fishing, hiking and canoeing the River. The Buffalo National River is one of the few remaining unpolluted, free flowing rivers in the lower 48 states. The Buffalo originates as a trickle in the Boston Mountains. It drops steadily for 132 miles to it confluence with the White River.
I stopped for gas at the wonderful hamlet of Toad Suck on the way. It took a half- hour to pump $2.00 worth of gas.. The attendant told me that the pump was not workin so good. A young fellow driving a low rider 1972 Pontiac, drove up. Bullet holes riddled the hood and windshield of the car. Since it would take me another hour to fill the tank, I had plenty of time to chat with him, and he told me that the car used to be his daddy’s but his daddy was now with the lord. He also told me that he had lost his three dogs when the family porch collapsed and killed them.
The frequent road kills along highway 65 included several dogs and cats that made it a more scenic route. I stopped at Wal Mart in the Metropolis of Harrison to pick up some stove fuel. Camouflaged style clothing appeared to be the attire of choice by the shoppers. Displayed on a mannequin was matching green camouflaged bra and panties on sale for $15.00. I seriously thought of gifting a set to my wild woman but was not in the extravagant mood.
I camped at the Tyler Bend Campgrounds, the group next to me woke me up with a prayer meeting at 11:00 that night. The Tyler Bend Visitor Center is a very nice facility and the area is absolutely gorgeous. The fall colors had just started but already were brilliant.
In between building some trail steps and clearing some of the Park’s trails I took the opportunity to drive some of the Ozark’ s back-roads and see some of the historic cabins built by early settlers. Many families have multiple generations in the area. (This is where some folk’s family tree mayt be a straight line) The NPS leader, Zed was a fifth generation resident.
The Ghost town of Rush, where zinc ore was mined in the late 1800s was particularly interesting and included several well preserved structures. During my visit I saw an abundance of wildlife that included elk, wild turkeys, beavers, white tailed deer, armadillos, opossums, and raccoons. In the evening several skunks with long white tails visited my camp. The fishing was very good, the Buffalo contains long pools and I caught several large mouth bass and catfish.
The hiking in the surrounding thick forests of Oak and Hickory offered wild mountain beauty and was easy walking on the fallen leaves. Hiking the trails in this area took me back in time to an era when the natural and cultural world, were one.
I did have some anxious moments when I lost my trail in the dense forest. This spur trail was not on my Trails Illustrated Map and I had difficulty back tracking.. The only sound that I could hear was blood curdling howls from hound dogs in the distance. The sounds seemed to get closer and closer and I felt like an escaped prisoner being tracked down. I used my compass and was able to find a back-road and followed that back to Rush.
"Now let's you just drop them pants."
Don Job-Deliverance- 1972
The highlight of the trip was a twenty mile canoe trip down a stretch of the Buffalo. I started this part of the adventure with thoughts of mountain men with sodomy on their minds. My partner on this float was Stan. (Da Man) Stan is a 75 year old retired chemist from Yugoslavia. He was also helping the NPS with trail work. He is just a delightful guy and I thoroughly enjoyed his company. Stan is a worrier and worried when we were in shallow water that we would get stuck and have to portage the canoe. When we were in deep water he would worry that we would fall out. “I would not like to fall out here” was voiced several times.
We did not meet up with any weird mountain men and saw absolutely no one. We enjoyed total serenity and solitude down the River that cuts its way through massive limestone buffs. Our isolation and the wildness became dramatized by side trips into a number of hollows flanking the river. We were later told that these served as guerilla hideouts during the civil war.
After the trip Stan was a real happy guy –“I think we did good”.
I just love the guy. He lives in up state New York.
Men Behaving Badly
Bubba Clinton-It’s no wonder he developed dysfunctional behaviors growing up in these parts!
This was a fabulous adventure, a real slice of life. I rate this trip a 10++++ Arkansas may be a little different to some of us, but the state’s natural beauty will take your breath away. Touring Arkansas completes El Lobo’s USA 50 state roam. I would like to do the same in Mexico and Canada.
Now, let me leave you with a little down home foot stompin verse.
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
And he played upon his banjo, coonie in the holler
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
Chicken foot, sparrow grass and apple butter
Consider cheap retirement in the Ozarks!!
Neil Diamond- Brother Love’s Traveling Salvation Show-2/69
Hey Bubba,
Just returned from the Ozarks in Arkansas, where folks pack up the babies, grab the old ladies and head for the revival. This is where you consider a six pack of beer and a bug zapper to be quality entertainment.
After landing in Little Rock, I turned my car rental’s radio to one of the many cryin and dyin stations and headed for the Zig Zagg mountains and Hot Springs National Park. Hot Springs was the child hood home of Bubba Clinton. This was our first National Park and unusual in that it is a blend of highly developed park in a small city. It is number 43 of our 54 US National Parks that I plan to visit in my lifetime.
After visiting historic bathhouse row, I returned to Little Rock and found myself a $30 minus five star motel room with a biker bar located conveniently down the street. The Buffalo River, the next day’s driving destination is located in a dry county so the biker bar was my best shot at a beer.
It seemed like a good opportunity to take in some of the local culture and discuss ecosystem protection with the boys.
This establishment had an impressive Confederate flag that spanned the length of the building. I ordered a local beer (BUD) from the bartender, but apparently I needed to be screened, and qualify for service. “You just passin through, son? You ain’t one of those Yankees are ya?” After explaining that I was from Arizona, not a state, but a territory during the civil war, I still did not have my beer. However, when I explained that I was going to a family reunion and viewed it as a great chance to meet some girls, I was finally served.
The next day I headed for the Buffalo River where I would do some volunteer work for the National Park Service, and spend some time fly fishing, hiking and canoeing the River. The Buffalo National River is one of the few remaining unpolluted, free flowing rivers in the lower 48 states. The Buffalo originates as a trickle in the Boston Mountains. It drops steadily for 132 miles to it confluence with the White River.
I stopped for gas at the wonderful hamlet of Toad Suck on the way. It took a half- hour to pump $2.00 worth of gas.. The attendant told me that the pump was not workin so good. A young fellow driving a low rider 1972 Pontiac, drove up. Bullet holes riddled the hood and windshield of the car. Since it would take me another hour to fill the tank, I had plenty of time to chat with him, and he told me that the car used to be his daddy’s but his daddy was now with the lord. He also told me that he had lost his three dogs when the family porch collapsed and killed them.
The frequent road kills along highway 65 included several dogs and cats that made it a more scenic route. I stopped at Wal Mart in the Metropolis of Harrison to pick up some stove fuel. Camouflaged style clothing appeared to be the attire of choice by the shoppers. Displayed on a mannequin was matching green camouflaged bra and panties on sale for $15.00. I seriously thought of gifting a set to my wild woman but was not in the extravagant mood.
I camped at the Tyler Bend Campgrounds, the group next to me woke me up with a prayer meeting at 11:00 that night. The Tyler Bend Visitor Center is a very nice facility and the area is absolutely gorgeous. The fall colors had just started but already were brilliant.
In between building some trail steps and clearing some of the Park’s trails I took the opportunity to drive some of the Ozark’ s back-roads and see some of the historic cabins built by early settlers. Many families have multiple generations in the area. (This is where some folk’s family tree mayt be a straight line) The NPS leader, Zed was a fifth generation resident.
The Ghost town of Rush, where zinc ore was mined in the late 1800s was particularly interesting and included several well preserved structures. During my visit I saw an abundance of wildlife that included elk, wild turkeys, beavers, white tailed deer, armadillos, opossums, and raccoons. In the evening several skunks with long white tails visited my camp. The fishing was very good, the Buffalo contains long pools and I caught several large mouth bass and catfish.
The hiking in the surrounding thick forests of Oak and Hickory offered wild mountain beauty and was easy walking on the fallen leaves. Hiking the trails in this area took me back in time to an era when the natural and cultural world, were one.
I did have some anxious moments when I lost my trail in the dense forest. This spur trail was not on my Trails Illustrated Map and I had difficulty back tracking.. The only sound that I could hear was blood curdling howls from hound dogs in the distance. The sounds seemed to get closer and closer and I felt like an escaped prisoner being tracked down. I used my compass and was able to find a back-road and followed that back to Rush.
"Now let's you just drop them pants."
Don Job-Deliverance- 1972
The highlight of the trip was a twenty mile canoe trip down a stretch of the Buffalo. I started this part of the adventure with thoughts of mountain men with sodomy on their minds. My partner on this float was Stan. (Da Man) Stan is a 75 year old retired chemist from Yugoslavia. He was also helping the NPS with trail work. He is just a delightful guy and I thoroughly enjoyed his company. Stan is a worrier and worried when we were in shallow water that we would get stuck and have to portage the canoe. When we were in deep water he would worry that we would fall out. “I would not like to fall out here” was voiced several times.
We did not meet up with any weird mountain men and saw absolutely no one. We enjoyed total serenity and solitude down the River that cuts its way through massive limestone buffs. Our isolation and the wildness became dramatized by side trips into a number of hollows flanking the river. We were later told that these served as guerilla hideouts during the civil war.
After the trip Stan was a real happy guy –“I think we did good”.
I just love the guy. He lives in up state New York.
Men Behaving Badly
Bubba Clinton-It’s no wonder he developed dysfunctional behaviors growing up in these parts!
This was a fabulous adventure, a real slice of life. I rate this trip a 10++++ Arkansas may be a little different to some of us, but the state’s natural beauty will take your breath away. Touring Arkansas completes El Lobo’s USA 50 state roam. I would like to do the same in Mexico and Canada.
Now, let me leave you with a little down home foot stompin verse.
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
Old Zip Coon was a very fine scholar
And he played upon his banjo, coonie in the holler
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
What do you think old Sukie had for supper
Chicken foot, sparrow grass and apple butter
Consider cheap retirement in the Ozarks!!
10/11/2003
To Extremes
“To really live, you must almost die”
Frankie Laine-The Hanging Tree
Little Colorado River Gorge
Blue Spring-1 Mile- 2200’ Drop-A steep route with big exposure into an incredible gorge
Escaladores:
Dingo Dan
El Lobo Grande
Zo
Start: 4:00 A.M. December 21
Finish: Midnight December 22
Elapsed time-20 hours
After 7 hours of driving, including 3 ½ hours on the maze of back roads on the Navajo Reservation, we arrived at our descent point. Along the way we caught a glimpse of a herd of pronghorn antelopes racing over the ridgeline. Too Cool!
Horizons turn Inward
This steep route is an unprotected scramble/free climb into the Little Colorado River Gorge, to Blue Spring, the source of the little Colorado’s azure blue flow. The exposure is huge; you must be totally focused on your moves in a number of areas. If you have a fear of heights, this isn’t the place to be.
Blue Cathedral
We arrived at the bottom in two hours to find the bluest of blue waters gushing out of the river’s left bank of Redwall limestone.
The climb out was difficult but went reasonably well. The ascent took two hours. We set up our camp chairs on the rim and enjoyed our traditional cervezas. Fosters! That's Australian for beer!
We allowed too much time to elapse and were challenged to find our way through the maze of back roads in the dark. Dingo did a stellar job of getting us out of there.
In Flag, we stopped at the Beaver Street Brewery for Burgers and mas cervezas, then home.
This was another fabulous adventure with the best of the best. Trip rating, a solid 10.
Men Behaving Badly:
Zo: For thinking that he left his cell phone on the bumper of the SUV, when it was actually in his pack. Time lost -15 minutes searching the freeway for it.
Arizona Highway Patrolman: For giving pobrito Dingo Dan a ticket for merely speeding 33 miles over the speed limit. Time lost 15 minutes
Dingo Dan, always the explorer, for insisting on crossing the river over Lobo’s objections, getting his shoes soaked, which added to his jeopardy on the climb out.
Dingo Dan: For screaming into the gorge after getting out: “You tried to F*#K us, but we beat you!
Mooseman: For being a no show.
El Lobo Grande: For flaunting his gear, sporting a new REI hydration pack, convertible pants, and REI 1 windproof waterproof gloves.
Dingo Dan: For bragging about giving his wife backrubs.
Dingo Dan: For enjoying his hike up Syphon Draw with Jacobo a little too much. (the day before) Dingo kept mentioning how the two of them enjoyed watching the beautiful clouds together?
Women Behaving Badly
Shoppers (for their husbands) in REI that want to see every knife in the case and want to have every tool explained on a large Swiss Army Knife.
Two of them wanted the same knife, got into a fight, and the victor ran off with the prize. The loser then turned on El Lobo and blamed him for letting the other shopper take the last knife.
Frankie Laine-The Hanging Tree
Little Colorado River Gorge
Blue Spring-1 Mile- 2200’ Drop-A steep route with big exposure into an incredible gorge
Escaladores:
Dingo Dan
El Lobo Grande
Zo
Start: 4:00 A.M. December 21
Finish: Midnight December 22
Elapsed time-20 hours
After 7 hours of driving, including 3 ½ hours on the maze of back roads on the Navajo Reservation, we arrived at our descent point. Along the way we caught a glimpse of a herd of pronghorn antelopes racing over the ridgeline. Too Cool!
Horizons turn Inward
This steep route is an unprotected scramble/free climb into the Little Colorado River Gorge, to Blue Spring, the source of the little Colorado’s azure blue flow. The exposure is huge; you must be totally focused on your moves in a number of areas. If you have a fear of heights, this isn’t the place to be.
Blue Cathedral
We arrived at the bottom in two hours to find the bluest of blue waters gushing out of the river’s left bank of Redwall limestone.
The climb out was difficult but went reasonably well. The ascent took two hours. We set up our camp chairs on the rim and enjoyed our traditional cervezas. Fosters! That's Australian for beer!
We allowed too much time to elapse and were challenged to find our way through the maze of back roads in the dark. Dingo did a stellar job of getting us out of there.
In Flag, we stopped at the Beaver Street Brewery for Burgers and mas cervezas, then home.
This was another fabulous adventure with the best of the best. Trip rating, a solid 10.
Men Behaving Badly:
Zo: For thinking that he left his cell phone on the bumper of the SUV, when it was actually in his pack. Time lost -15 minutes searching the freeway for it.
Arizona Highway Patrolman: For giving pobrito Dingo Dan a ticket for merely speeding 33 miles over the speed limit. Time lost 15 minutes
Dingo Dan, always the explorer, for insisting on crossing the river over Lobo’s objections, getting his shoes soaked, which added to his jeopardy on the climb out.
Dingo Dan: For screaming into the gorge after getting out: “You tried to F*#K us, but we beat you!
Mooseman: For being a no show.
El Lobo Grande: For flaunting his gear, sporting a new REI hydration pack, convertible pants, and REI 1 windproof waterproof gloves.
Dingo Dan: For bragging about giving his wife backrubs.
Dingo Dan: For enjoying his hike up Syphon Draw with Jacobo a little too much. (the day before) Dingo kept mentioning how the two of them enjoyed watching the beautiful clouds together?
Women Behaving Badly
Shoppers (for their husbands) in REI that want to see every knife in the case and want to have every tool explained on a large Swiss Army Knife.
Two of them wanted the same knife, got into a fight, and the victor ran off with the prize. The loser then turned on El Lobo and blamed him for letting the other shopper take the last knife.
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