Grand Canyon/Phantom Creek Field Institute overland trip
Five days, forty one miles, Approximately 15,000’ elevation gain/loss
After an orientation day on Sunday, our group headed down the South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch where we spent the evening. The group consisted of Maverick, 75 years young, Margaret, a retired school teacher, Tony a retired Army Sergeant/Major in the Special forces, Lisa, a 31 year old nurse, our leader Sally, a northern Arizona veterinarian, the Yahner man and Lobo, veteran cosmic canyoneers. This was a diverse group of fun and capable hikers.
Steve and Lobo enjoyed the gourmet hiker’s stew dinner at the ranch with Tecate and vino libations. The rest of the group “roughed it” and had their backpacker dinners at camp. It rained slightly, and this gave me the opportunity to put up my new tarp with Steve’s assistance. A ringtail cat toured our camp that evening, but came up empty as all food was safely enclosed in the provided metal canisters.
The next morning we climbed steeply off trail up about 800’ to the plateau above Bright Angel Creek known as “Utah flats” and continued for about seven miles to the oasis of Phantom Creek, lined with Narrowleaf Cottonwood trees. This drainage offers a variety of indigenous plants, but is prone to “flashing” and we checked out the weather carefully prior to exploring. Several hikers have lost their lives in recent years in this flood prone drainage. An alternative route would be to go directly up the Phantom Creek drainage to the Tonto Platform. This may require some wading. Another way into Phantom Creek Valley can be made on an old cattle trail from the North Kaibab trail, 1/2 mile below Ribbon Falls. There are supposed to be a couple of springs along the way. Also there are apparently numerous “routes” into Phantom Canyon from the North Rim. This gives us a number of choices for a possible future exploratory return trip.
We enjoyed day hikes to Haunted Canyon and up an unnamed side canyon to the spring where Phantom Creek originates. This is an absolutely beautiful part of the canyon. There were brilliant flowers and butterflies all along the upper drainage. I particularly enjoyed the bright black and blue colored butterflies. Tony’s background in Special Forces was of great assistance in route finding.
We also explored down drainage, taking an overland bypass to a pristine waterfall. This side trip involved much slipping and sliding in scree, down a steep decline.
Men behaving Badly
-Steve lost the contact in his right eye, but nurse Lisa found it in his left eye?
-Lisa reported “trumpeting” sounds coming from the location of Steve’s tent. Steve suggested that the sounds originated in El Lobo’s den. Sure Steve.
-Maverick, Tony, and Steve-flaunting their “go light” gear and talking about it for hours.
Boring!
Women or Men behaving badly?
-Lisa’s version of comfy camp attire was a black cocktail dress, however there were no formal complaints logged from any of the alpha males.
Steve and I had to leave the group a day early so that I could get to an important wedding in Pinetop. Steven and Susan Dolan’s daughter Angela’s ring ceremony was scheduled for Saturday afternoon at the Country Club. Gerry (spouse) and I love the Dolans and would not miss this event for the world. Gerry would also punish me badly if I did not get out of the canyon for this event.
This necessitated a 16 mile climb back to the South Rim. The group would hike to the Ranch and spend one more evening, prior to hiking out.
Steve and I ended going a little additional vertical mileage with an unplanned side trip, passing westward over the Cheops/Isis saddle towards 91 mile and Trinity Creek drainages. El Lobo twice questioned the route prior to the Master Canyoneer/navigator changing directions from West to East. Steve did come through in the clutch however, and found the steep route down to Phantom Ranch.
The hike out was long and arduous. Tight hamstrings and perhaps a bit of dehydration did not help Lobo. Love for the Dolans and fear of Gerry kept me going. The Yahner man was strong the whole way, I struggled with the last mile to the rim. This was one of the tougher “outs” for me. We arrived back in Scottsdale at 9:30 that night. This gave me time to get ready for an early morning departure to the White Mountains the following day. Our good friends Ron and Sherry Jasper picked us up the following morning and we made it to Pinetop in plenty of time.
Overall, this was a fabulous pack into the canyon outback. I thoroughly enjoyed the time we shared with the group. Everyone provided value. Sally is a terrific leader, a native Arizonan, extremely knowledgeable in the geology and ecology of the canyon. She made the outing interesting and enjoyable for each participant. Go on a GCFI outing with her, you will really like it.
Thanks to Steve for coming out early with me and sharing the drive home.
I rate this trip a 9.5
10/13/2001
OHHHHHHHHHH Mexico-Barranca Del Cobre
OOOOOHHHHHHHH MEXICO, IT SOUNDS SO SIMPLE, I JUST HAVE TO GO. ------James Taylor
Sierra Tarahumara-Barrancas Del Cobre
Lorenzo Martinez and I just returned from an adventure traveler's dream ---"Barranca Del Cobre" Mexico. This type of trip, particularly the 27 hours of Mexican bus travel, is not for everyone but worked reasonably well for us. Part of our mission was to seek out and interview future guides, and gather as much data as possible for a future rim-to-rim inner canyon backpack. Limited topo maps were available and those that were, provided only general and often times inaccurate data.The name, "Copper Canyon" is used as a general reference to six massive gorges covering 25,000 sq. miles. The term refers to the copper/green colored lichen that clings to the canyon walls. This canyon system is four times larger than the Grand Canyon. Four of its six canyons are deeper than our Grand - some by over 1,000 feet. The Copper Canyon area is a maze of 200 gorges making for complex inner canyon backpacking that requires an adventurous spirit. An incredible variety of ecosystems further distinguish the region. The Sierra Madre possesses more varieties of oak and pine than anywhere else in the world. It is lush!!! When asked the inevitable Grand Canyon comparison question, we respond that our impression of Copper Canyon is that it is a combination of Canyon De Chelly and The North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Very similar and very different.Complimenting the area's awesome scenery is the Tarahumara Indian culture. There are about 50,000 of these people living in the gorges, many in cliff and cave dwellings. Simple farming and ranching provides their sustenance. They are among the world's greatest longest distance runners. One of our guides, Reyes, unmercifully ran us up and down the Valley of Sighs for twelve miles. Our sojourn was special on many fronts, not the least of which was the incredible train ride from Los Mochis to the Mountain Ciudad of Creel. The Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad, completed in 1961, is an engineering marvel. We traveled from sea level to over 8000' up the Sierra Madre mountain range through innumerable tunnels, bridges and lush subtropical vegetation.Day1 - Monday 7.02.01Lorenzo drove his new SUV to Nogales, where we stored it in a secure lot for the ten days that we would be in Mexico. We then crossed the border and obtained our tourist cards and caught a first class bus to Los Mochis. The twelve hour ride was comfortable and scenic. Four movies helped pass the time. We arrived in Los Mochis close to 10:00 P.M. and took a cab to the Hotel Montecarlo. This hotel is clean and has an open courtyard. Twelve bucks each -US. We were able to find an open bar in the 'upscale' Hotel Santa Anita and sampled a couple of Negro Modello cervezas and then enjoyed a gourmet meal of tacos and burritos served up by a street vendor across the street from the hotel-60 pesos(6 bucks) for both. Lobo (Bruce) declined a beverage with his meal since all they offered was non-alcoholic. Lobo kept requesting cerveza, but the vendor would only shake her head and say 'cerveza es mal' (beer is bad). Day2 - Tuesday 7.03.01We were up at 4:30 A.M. and caught a cab to the train station where we boarded the first class train that leaves each morning at 6:00 A.M. for the 10 hour ride to Creel. The First class train is about fifty-five bucks (US) one way to Creel. The second class train costs half that, and leaves a couple of hours later. The second class train is not a bad option as it has air conditioning and decent seating, it just takes a little longer, does not have a dining or bar cars and can be crowded. The train ride was comfortable and the views were outstanding. We met several European travelers and exchanged information. An eight year old boy from New Jersey, Josh, traveling with his grandpa, latched on to us and we chit chatted for hours. He helped Lobo with his Spanish. His mom was born in Creel and migrated to the US. Josh is a great kid. Immediately upon arriving in Creel we went to the mission store to purchase maps and then checked into Margaritas. Margaritas is a hostel popular with backpackers and young European travelers. Our cost was $12.00 ea. (US) for a private room and bath and two meals a day (breakfast and dinner). The meals were very good. Margaritas is also one big party. For every cerveza purchased you are provided with a free double shot of tequila. We hooked up with a couple of fun guys from the US-Myer and Mike and partied hard the first night. The usual scenario is to hang out in the courtyard after dinner and get acquainted with other guests while enjoying 10 peso cervezas (and free tequila). When things really get going, the suggestion is usually made to move the fiesta to the other Margarita (hotel) bar, which is about 4 blocks away. There was much laughing, drinking and dancing (by Myer and Mike). At 3:30 a.m. when the party returned to the hostel, Lobo could hear howling and loud appeals for him to return to the party on the courtyard. El Lobo put his head under the pillow. Day3 - Wednesday 7.04.01 (USA birthday)We were up and showered in time for breakfast, which is served between 7:30-9:00. The day prior, we signed up for a trip to the Rekowata Hot Springs (at 100 pesos per head, bag lunch included). Twelve of us piled into the van for the 40 minute trip to the trailhead. At the trailhead, Mario our driver, told us the hike was 3 kilometers down and to always stay to the left. About 40 drizzling-rain minutes later, we were all at the Rekowata springs, which flow from the canyon walls into the San Ignacio River. This area represents the beginning of Urique Canyon. We lounged in the lukewarm pools of the river for close to 3 hours before heading back up trail. The 1,700 foot elevation gain made the hike out somewhat strenuous, but all were out within 1.5 hours. On the way up, Lobo and Zo met Pinto, the dog, and his companion Caesar, a Tarahumara kid of about 5. At the top, Lobo scored a doll and basket (woven out of pine needles).We were back at Margaritas in time for a shower and dinner. After dinner, the indoctrination of new arrivals began in the courtyard. Things really got going when a birthday cake for Paula was produced. Cake started flying. As with the previous night, Mike was very popular with the senoritas. He is a superb dancer. Close to 11, talk of heading to the bar began. Lobo and Zo declined and headed to their room to sleep. Sounds of the ongoing festivities continued throughout the night.Day4 - Thursday 7.05.01After breakfast, we took our laundry to a woman who washes, dries and folds for 40 pesos per load. At 10 we boarded a bus to El Divisadero, a town south of Creel that is a popular train stop offering food stalls, plenty of jewelry and basket vendors, and the best views of the canyon. We were joined by Carol, a young backpacker from Colorado we had met the day before at Margaritas. She was set on doing nothing but backpacking. We only wanted to find a nice day hike. We asked a stall operator if he knew of any guides. We were directed to follow the dirt road out of town for about 2km until we came to a little ranchito belonging to Lencho Macinas.We headed off as directed and soon came across an older gentleman walking towards town. We asked if he knew Lencho Macinas and he extended his hand. Carol tried to negotiate a trip down into the canyon and he offered a couple of options, but neither seemed to fit Carol's budget. He gave us directions for a short rim day hike back towards town and off we went. Part way in, we veered off and followed a path down into the canyon, which led to some Tarahumara dwellings. The short diversion offered some great views.Back at El Divisadero, we had a gordita and a chile relleno burrito, and checked out the merchandise that was for sale. We sat outside waiting for our bus taking in the great views as 2 Tarahumara brothers, Lorenzo and Victor, chased each other around us. On the ride back, the clouds let loose. When we got to Creel, the streets were like rivers. We picked up our laundry and headed back to Margaritas. At Margaritas, we discovered there had been a landslide on the train tracks and train service to Los Mochis was halted indefinitely. Quite a few folks were stranded, but the beer was still 10 pesos and the tequila was still free.After dinner, Myer and Mike shared our 6-packs of Tecate and Dos X while being entertained with El Lobo stories. Myer and Mike were eventually lured to the room next door where some of the stranded senoritas needed escorts to the bar. Zo and Lobo went to bed. There were plans for the next day.Day5 - Friday 7.06.01We packed after breakfast and then checked out of Margaritas, but not before paying in advance for Sunday night. We joined the tour to Cusarare Falls where we would be left at the trailhead to the falls. This is the location of Copper Canyon Lodge (a.k.a. Sierra Madre Hiking Lodge/Cabanas de Cobre).We left the tour group and headed for the lodge. Jose Luis, the manager was not around, so we left our packs and did the 3km hike to the falls. The falls seemed to be flowing at less than 50%. They must be awesome at full force. We saw Carol at the falls. She camped close by the night before and seemed to have found a guide to take her into the canyon the following day.Back at the lodge we met Jose Luis, Monserat (do-it-all man), and Margarita (cook/chef). We were back in time for lunch with Angela, who works for the US Forest Service. Margarita served up sopa de fideo (a Mexican thin noodle soup with avocado slices) that was delicious.Copper Canyon Lodge is awesome!!!! There is no electricity, just kerosene lamps in the rooms. Very quiet and charming. This is one of the nicest places you will ever stay!! Fifty (US) dollars per person per night, including three superb meals. The meals alone are worth it. The place is very informal. The bar is self-serve. You get your own beer from the fridge in the kitchen or mix your own drinks at the bar. It works on the honor system and you're expected to keep tab of how many drinks you have.We had planned to hike the 3km to the town of Cusarare and check out the mission after lunch, but as had become the norm, the afternoon showers appeared and we were left to make journal entries and read while sitting on the porch and enjoying the scenery. Several Tarahumara children would come by like little duckling groups and visit along with the dogs that hung out hoping for treats like El Lobo's jerky. We would show the children the pictures in National Geographic Traveler magazine and they would smile and laugh and enthusiastically chit chat in Tarahumara tongue. They were beautiful children, dressed in bright traditional Tarahumara outfits. The dining room at the lodge is great. The furnishings are made of rich dark woods and leather - very rustic and very comfortable. Before dinner we enjoyed vino and cervezas with Angela and her friend Sandra in front of a fire Monserat had started. Dinner always consisted of soup, entrée, and desert, and was always sabroso. Margarita was trained by 2 chefs who were full time staff when the lodge always operated at full capacity and charged $200(US) per night. The dinner consisted of onion soup, tomatadas (enchiladas in tomato sauce rather than chile sauce), and baked pear and apple slices in a wine-cinnamon sauce.Angela and Sandra were leaving early the next morning and we planned to join them for breakfast before going on a 20km hike to some hot springs Monserat had mentioned.When we got to our rooms, our kerosene lamps had been lit.Day6 - Saturday 7.07.01Before breakfast we headed out to do the 3km walk to check out the mission in Cusarare. There is not much to the town and the mission was locked so we couldn't see the inside. We got back to lodge in time to bid farewell to Angela and Sandra. We were now the only 2 guests at the lodge. Breakfast was delicious. Huevos rancheros for Lobo and huevos a la mexicana for Zo with plenty of beans, tortillas, biscuits, sliced fruit and cereal.We had originally intended on hiking 10km down the canyon to some hotsprings, but Jose Luis suggested taking a guided route over a nearby ridge to the springs. After breakfast we asked Monserat if he had time to guide us to the springs. He told us they had set us up with Reyes as guide. Jose Reyes Batista is a Tarahumara who lives next to the lodge. He has a small plot of land (1 of 3) where he grows corn, potatoes and beans to sustain his family of 7.Jose Luis, Margarita and Monserat were out on the porch telling Reyes that we'd been out to the mission and back in about 30 minutes. They described us as 'muy rapidos.' Reyes' look seemed a bit worried, but with a sly grin that seemed eager for a challenge. We took the lunches Margarita packed for us and off we went (but not before Reyes scored himself a bar of soap so he could bathe down at the river). Reyes set a quick pace towards the ridge. Before the first km was over, we had all worked up a sweat and lack of oxygen. We made it up the ridge in quick fashion with a couple of breaks to remove layers and take in the vista at the top of the ridge. Reyes noted it would all be downhill from here. Reyes led us over the ridge and down a scree slope. As Zo and Lobo carefully chose their steps to avoid any rock slides, Reyes was almost running down the slope. It wouldn't have been so bad, this was his backyard afterall, but here we were with our 'advanced' technology rubber-whatever soles fearing slips while Reyes with his huarachis (sandals) made from tire tread and leather thongs danced his way down the slope. His leather thong did break twice though - what can you expect after 2 years of wear. Reyes had mentioned during one of his huarachi repairs that he preferred his huarachis. He only wore covered shoes a few days during the winter when the cold weather would make his toes hurt.Two hours into the hike, we reached the bottom of the canyon. A spring hot enough to boil an egg ran down into a 4ft diameter pool. The pool itself was not very warm, and we dipped our feet in while Reyes went up river a bit to put his bar of soap to use.We stayed in the canyon going up river to the falls by the lodge. Three hours later, Reyes was making his way through his corn field toward his house, while we sat on porch to enjoy the chile relleno burritos we carried on the hike but never stopped to enjoy.The rest of the rainy afternoon was spent lounging on the porch, showering and napping. This day's dinner consisted of vegetable soup, the tenderest chicken we've ever had, and cake.We spent the rest of night talking to the staff about the history of the lodge and the eccentricities of the owner.Day7 - Sunday 7.08.01For our last day at the lodge, we hiked over to a cave with many petroglyphs. The Tarahumara's are known to inhabit caves even now. After exploring the cave, we continued up the small canyon to the rim. From there went overland toward the direction of the main road to loop around back to the lodge. Back at the lodge, we packed and waited for Jose Luis to return from Creel, so he could drive us back to Creel.By midday we were back at Margaritas for one last party. As we entered, the staff gleefully shouted El Lobo! We left our packs in our room went out to walk Creel's main drag one last time.At dinner time, the only word to escape El Lobo's mouth (approximately 8 times) was tequila.After dinner, the only word to escape El Lobo's mouth was margarita; so off we went the Best Western Hotel bar. On the way back we ran into New Jersey Josh and his mother. The original plan was to take the train back to Los Mochis, but we decided to take the bus to Chihuahua City instead.Day8 - Monday 7.09.01At 9:15 we were on the bus for the 4 hour ride to Chihuahua. On the way to the bus station, we saw Carol who proudly informed us she had made it down to the inner canyon. We congratulated her in the rain and parted ways. The ride was uneventful for the most part. We arrived in Chihuahua and purchased bus tickets for Nogales the next day. We checked into the Santa Regina Hotel (400 pesos) and started to ease back into the US mentality by having lunch at Burger King (it was that or Pizza Hut). We walked about a mile to Pancho Villa's old house (now the Museum of the Revolution) only to discover it was closed on Mondays. The rest of the day was spent walking through the Plaza de Armas.Day9/10 - Tuesday/Wednesday 7.10/11.01We rose early to catch a "first class" bus for the twelve hour ride to Nogales. The bathroom was broken as well as the TV sets, but the time went by quickly enjoying the countryside. There were two bus drivers covering the trip, with one sometimes sleeping in the luggage compartment on the side of the bus. The stereo was cranked up full blast with festive music as one of the drivers negotiated the hair pin turns over the narrow mountain roads. We stopped at many little towns along the way and with the exception of the Federales stopping and searching the bus several times, all went smooth until we reached the small town of Cananea. While we were using the bathroom in th bus station, the drivers unloaded our luggage and were leaving. The drivers told us that they had to get back, but another bus would be here "poquito" to take us to Nogales. They then drove off, ignoring our appeals of "but this is a through bus to Nogales.' We were insured by an "official" at the Bus Station that another Nogales bus would be there soon. Each time a bus would show we would be hopeful, but none were going to Nogales. One bus driver told us "Nogales!" There will be no buses to Nogales! And offered to take us to another town where we could get a transfer. This would only cost a few pesos. We opted to stay there until a bus showed up four hours later that would stop in the little town of Imuris. Imuris was at least on a main highway (15) and with darkness looming, some rough looking local vultures were hovering, and appeared ready to feast on two gringos. We jumped on the bus. The road over the mountains to Imuris was absolutely frightening. The sunset was spectacular. Our strategy paid off; we were able to get a bus to Nogales within minutes of arriving in Imuris. We arrived in Nogales much too late to get our vehicle out of hawk, so we stayed in a hotel in US Nogales. The next morning we drove back to Phoenix. Total individual cost for this trip was less than $600 and $75 of that was for jewelry and souvenirs. For an additional $300 (US) you can fly round trip from Phoenix to Los Mochis in luxury. But why would you want to do that, when you can take a bus--the travel of choice for millions of Mexicans. The joys of travel are not always obtained in reaching one's destination, but in the journey itself. (It is the road, not the inn)We thoroughly enjoyed this trip. Copper Canyon is truly an adventure of a lifetime.
Sierra Tarahumara-Barrancas Del Cobre
Lorenzo Martinez and I just returned from an adventure traveler's dream ---"Barranca Del Cobre" Mexico. This type of trip, particularly the 27 hours of Mexican bus travel, is not for everyone but worked reasonably well for us. Part of our mission was to seek out and interview future guides, and gather as much data as possible for a future rim-to-rim inner canyon backpack. Limited topo maps were available and those that were, provided only general and often times inaccurate data.The name, "Copper Canyon" is used as a general reference to six massive gorges covering 25,000 sq. miles. The term refers to the copper/green colored lichen that clings to the canyon walls. This canyon system is four times larger than the Grand Canyon. Four of its six canyons are deeper than our Grand - some by over 1,000 feet. The Copper Canyon area is a maze of 200 gorges making for complex inner canyon backpacking that requires an adventurous spirit. An incredible variety of ecosystems further distinguish the region. The Sierra Madre possesses more varieties of oak and pine than anywhere else in the world. It is lush!!! When asked the inevitable Grand Canyon comparison question, we respond that our impression of Copper Canyon is that it is a combination of Canyon De Chelly and The North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Very similar and very different.Complimenting the area's awesome scenery is the Tarahumara Indian culture. There are about 50,000 of these people living in the gorges, many in cliff and cave dwellings. Simple farming and ranching provides their sustenance. They are among the world's greatest longest distance runners. One of our guides, Reyes, unmercifully ran us up and down the Valley of Sighs for twelve miles. Our sojourn was special on many fronts, not the least of which was the incredible train ride from Los Mochis to the Mountain Ciudad of Creel. The Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad, completed in 1961, is an engineering marvel. We traveled from sea level to over 8000' up the Sierra Madre mountain range through innumerable tunnels, bridges and lush subtropical vegetation.Day1 - Monday 7.02.01Lorenzo drove his new SUV to Nogales, where we stored it in a secure lot for the ten days that we would be in Mexico. We then crossed the border and obtained our tourist cards and caught a first class bus to Los Mochis. The twelve hour ride was comfortable and scenic. Four movies helped pass the time. We arrived in Los Mochis close to 10:00 P.M. and took a cab to the Hotel Montecarlo. This hotel is clean and has an open courtyard. Twelve bucks each -US. We were able to find an open bar in the 'upscale' Hotel Santa Anita and sampled a couple of Negro Modello cervezas and then enjoyed a gourmet meal of tacos and burritos served up by a street vendor across the street from the hotel-60 pesos(6 bucks) for both. Lobo (Bruce) declined a beverage with his meal since all they offered was non-alcoholic. Lobo kept requesting cerveza, but the vendor would only shake her head and say 'cerveza es mal' (beer is bad). Day2 - Tuesday 7.03.01We were up at 4:30 A.M. and caught a cab to the train station where we boarded the first class train that leaves each morning at 6:00 A.M. for the 10 hour ride to Creel. The First class train is about fifty-five bucks (US) one way to Creel. The second class train costs half that, and leaves a couple of hours later. The second class train is not a bad option as it has air conditioning and decent seating, it just takes a little longer, does not have a dining or bar cars and can be crowded. The train ride was comfortable and the views were outstanding. We met several European travelers and exchanged information. An eight year old boy from New Jersey, Josh, traveling with his grandpa, latched on to us and we chit chatted for hours. He helped Lobo with his Spanish. His mom was born in Creel and migrated to the US. Josh is a great kid. Immediately upon arriving in Creel we went to the mission store to purchase maps and then checked into Margaritas. Margaritas is a hostel popular with backpackers and young European travelers. Our cost was $12.00 ea. (US) for a private room and bath and two meals a day (breakfast and dinner). The meals were very good. Margaritas is also one big party. For every cerveza purchased you are provided with a free double shot of tequila. We hooked up with a couple of fun guys from the US-Myer and Mike and partied hard the first night. The usual scenario is to hang out in the courtyard after dinner and get acquainted with other guests while enjoying 10 peso cervezas (and free tequila). When things really get going, the suggestion is usually made to move the fiesta to the other Margarita (hotel) bar, which is about 4 blocks away. There was much laughing, drinking and dancing (by Myer and Mike). At 3:30 a.m. when the party returned to the hostel, Lobo could hear howling and loud appeals for him to return to the party on the courtyard. El Lobo put his head under the pillow. Day3 - Wednesday 7.04.01 (USA birthday)We were up and showered in time for breakfast, which is served between 7:30-9:00. The day prior, we signed up for a trip to the Rekowata Hot Springs (at 100 pesos per head, bag lunch included). Twelve of us piled into the van for the 40 minute trip to the trailhead. At the trailhead, Mario our driver, told us the hike was 3 kilometers down and to always stay to the left. About 40 drizzling-rain minutes later, we were all at the Rekowata springs, which flow from the canyon walls into the San Ignacio River. This area represents the beginning of Urique Canyon. We lounged in the lukewarm pools of the river for close to 3 hours before heading back up trail. The 1,700 foot elevation gain made the hike out somewhat strenuous, but all were out within 1.5 hours. On the way up, Lobo and Zo met Pinto, the dog, and his companion Caesar, a Tarahumara kid of about 5. At the top, Lobo scored a doll and basket (woven out of pine needles).We were back at Margaritas in time for a shower and dinner. After dinner, the indoctrination of new arrivals began in the courtyard. Things really got going when a birthday cake for Paula was produced. Cake started flying. As with the previous night, Mike was very popular with the senoritas. He is a superb dancer. Close to 11, talk of heading to the bar began. Lobo and Zo declined and headed to their room to sleep. Sounds of the ongoing festivities continued throughout the night.Day4 - Thursday 7.05.01After breakfast, we took our laundry to a woman who washes, dries and folds for 40 pesos per load. At 10 we boarded a bus to El Divisadero, a town south of Creel that is a popular train stop offering food stalls, plenty of jewelry and basket vendors, and the best views of the canyon. We were joined by Carol, a young backpacker from Colorado we had met the day before at Margaritas. She was set on doing nothing but backpacking. We only wanted to find a nice day hike. We asked a stall operator if he knew of any guides. We were directed to follow the dirt road out of town for about 2km until we came to a little ranchito belonging to Lencho Macinas.We headed off as directed and soon came across an older gentleman walking towards town. We asked if he knew Lencho Macinas and he extended his hand. Carol tried to negotiate a trip down into the canyon and he offered a couple of options, but neither seemed to fit Carol's budget. He gave us directions for a short rim day hike back towards town and off we went. Part way in, we veered off and followed a path down into the canyon, which led to some Tarahumara dwellings. The short diversion offered some great views.Back at El Divisadero, we had a gordita and a chile relleno burrito, and checked out the merchandise that was for sale. We sat outside waiting for our bus taking in the great views as 2 Tarahumara brothers, Lorenzo and Victor, chased each other around us. On the ride back, the clouds let loose. When we got to Creel, the streets were like rivers. We picked up our laundry and headed back to Margaritas. At Margaritas, we discovered there had been a landslide on the train tracks and train service to Los Mochis was halted indefinitely. Quite a few folks were stranded, but the beer was still 10 pesos and the tequila was still free.After dinner, Myer and Mike shared our 6-packs of Tecate and Dos X while being entertained with El Lobo stories. Myer and Mike were eventually lured to the room next door where some of the stranded senoritas needed escorts to the bar. Zo and Lobo went to bed. There were plans for the next day.Day5 - Friday 7.06.01We packed after breakfast and then checked out of Margaritas, but not before paying in advance for Sunday night. We joined the tour to Cusarare Falls where we would be left at the trailhead to the falls. This is the location of Copper Canyon Lodge (a.k.a. Sierra Madre Hiking Lodge/Cabanas de Cobre).We left the tour group and headed for the lodge. Jose Luis, the manager was not around, so we left our packs and did the 3km hike to the falls. The falls seemed to be flowing at less than 50%. They must be awesome at full force. We saw Carol at the falls. She camped close by the night before and seemed to have found a guide to take her into the canyon the following day.Back at the lodge we met Jose Luis, Monserat (do-it-all man), and Margarita (cook/chef). We were back in time for lunch with Angela, who works for the US Forest Service. Margarita served up sopa de fideo (a Mexican thin noodle soup with avocado slices) that was delicious.Copper Canyon Lodge is awesome!!!! There is no electricity, just kerosene lamps in the rooms. Very quiet and charming. This is one of the nicest places you will ever stay!! Fifty (US) dollars per person per night, including three superb meals. The meals alone are worth it. The place is very informal. The bar is self-serve. You get your own beer from the fridge in the kitchen or mix your own drinks at the bar. It works on the honor system and you're expected to keep tab of how many drinks you have.We had planned to hike the 3km to the town of Cusarare and check out the mission after lunch, but as had become the norm, the afternoon showers appeared and we were left to make journal entries and read while sitting on the porch and enjoying the scenery. Several Tarahumara children would come by like little duckling groups and visit along with the dogs that hung out hoping for treats like El Lobo's jerky. We would show the children the pictures in National Geographic Traveler magazine and they would smile and laugh and enthusiastically chit chat in Tarahumara tongue. They were beautiful children, dressed in bright traditional Tarahumara outfits. The dining room at the lodge is great. The furnishings are made of rich dark woods and leather - very rustic and very comfortable. Before dinner we enjoyed vino and cervezas with Angela and her friend Sandra in front of a fire Monserat had started. Dinner always consisted of soup, entrée, and desert, and was always sabroso. Margarita was trained by 2 chefs who were full time staff when the lodge always operated at full capacity and charged $200(US) per night. The dinner consisted of onion soup, tomatadas (enchiladas in tomato sauce rather than chile sauce), and baked pear and apple slices in a wine-cinnamon sauce.Angela and Sandra were leaving early the next morning and we planned to join them for breakfast before going on a 20km hike to some hot springs Monserat had mentioned.When we got to our rooms, our kerosene lamps had been lit.Day6 - Saturday 7.07.01Before breakfast we headed out to do the 3km walk to check out the mission in Cusarare. There is not much to the town and the mission was locked so we couldn't see the inside. We got back to lodge in time to bid farewell to Angela and Sandra. We were now the only 2 guests at the lodge. Breakfast was delicious. Huevos rancheros for Lobo and huevos a la mexicana for Zo with plenty of beans, tortillas, biscuits, sliced fruit and cereal.We had originally intended on hiking 10km down the canyon to some hotsprings, but Jose Luis suggested taking a guided route over a nearby ridge to the springs. After breakfast we asked Monserat if he had time to guide us to the springs. He told us they had set us up with Reyes as guide. Jose Reyes Batista is a Tarahumara who lives next to the lodge. He has a small plot of land (1 of 3) where he grows corn, potatoes and beans to sustain his family of 7.Jose Luis, Margarita and Monserat were out on the porch telling Reyes that we'd been out to the mission and back in about 30 minutes. They described us as 'muy rapidos.' Reyes' look seemed a bit worried, but with a sly grin that seemed eager for a challenge. We took the lunches Margarita packed for us and off we went (but not before Reyes scored himself a bar of soap so he could bathe down at the river). Reyes set a quick pace towards the ridge. Before the first km was over, we had all worked up a sweat and lack of oxygen. We made it up the ridge in quick fashion with a couple of breaks to remove layers and take in the vista at the top of the ridge. Reyes noted it would all be downhill from here. Reyes led us over the ridge and down a scree slope. As Zo and Lobo carefully chose their steps to avoid any rock slides, Reyes was almost running down the slope. It wouldn't have been so bad, this was his backyard afterall, but here we were with our 'advanced' technology rubber-whatever soles fearing slips while Reyes with his huarachis (sandals) made from tire tread and leather thongs danced his way down the slope. His leather thong did break twice though - what can you expect after 2 years of wear. Reyes had mentioned during one of his huarachi repairs that he preferred his huarachis. He only wore covered shoes a few days during the winter when the cold weather would make his toes hurt.Two hours into the hike, we reached the bottom of the canyon. A spring hot enough to boil an egg ran down into a 4ft diameter pool. The pool itself was not very warm, and we dipped our feet in while Reyes went up river a bit to put his bar of soap to use.We stayed in the canyon going up river to the falls by the lodge. Three hours later, Reyes was making his way through his corn field toward his house, while we sat on porch to enjoy the chile relleno burritos we carried on the hike but never stopped to enjoy.The rest of the rainy afternoon was spent lounging on the porch, showering and napping. This day's dinner consisted of vegetable soup, the tenderest chicken we've ever had, and cake.We spent the rest of night talking to the staff about the history of the lodge and the eccentricities of the owner.Day7 - Sunday 7.08.01For our last day at the lodge, we hiked over to a cave with many petroglyphs. The Tarahumara's are known to inhabit caves even now. After exploring the cave, we continued up the small canyon to the rim. From there went overland toward the direction of the main road to loop around back to the lodge. Back at the lodge, we packed and waited for Jose Luis to return from Creel, so he could drive us back to Creel.By midday we were back at Margaritas for one last party. As we entered, the staff gleefully shouted El Lobo! We left our packs in our room went out to walk Creel's main drag one last time.At dinner time, the only word to escape El Lobo's mouth (approximately 8 times) was tequila.After dinner, the only word to escape El Lobo's mouth was margarita; so off we went the Best Western Hotel bar. On the way back we ran into New Jersey Josh and his mother. The original plan was to take the train back to Los Mochis, but we decided to take the bus to Chihuahua City instead.Day8 - Monday 7.09.01At 9:15 we were on the bus for the 4 hour ride to Chihuahua. On the way to the bus station, we saw Carol who proudly informed us she had made it down to the inner canyon. We congratulated her in the rain and parted ways. The ride was uneventful for the most part. We arrived in Chihuahua and purchased bus tickets for Nogales the next day. We checked into the Santa Regina Hotel (400 pesos) and started to ease back into the US mentality by having lunch at Burger King (it was that or Pizza Hut). We walked about a mile to Pancho Villa's old house (now the Museum of the Revolution) only to discover it was closed on Mondays. The rest of the day was spent walking through the Plaza de Armas.Day9/10 - Tuesday/Wednesday 7.10/11.01We rose early to catch a "first class" bus for the twelve hour ride to Nogales. The bathroom was broken as well as the TV sets, but the time went by quickly enjoying the countryside. There were two bus drivers covering the trip, with one sometimes sleeping in the luggage compartment on the side of the bus. The stereo was cranked up full blast with festive music as one of the drivers negotiated the hair pin turns over the narrow mountain roads. We stopped at many little towns along the way and with the exception of the Federales stopping and searching the bus several times, all went smooth until we reached the small town of Cananea. While we were using the bathroom in th bus station, the drivers unloaded our luggage and were leaving. The drivers told us that they had to get back, but another bus would be here "poquito" to take us to Nogales. They then drove off, ignoring our appeals of "but this is a through bus to Nogales.' We were insured by an "official" at the Bus Station that another Nogales bus would be there soon. Each time a bus would show we would be hopeful, but none were going to Nogales. One bus driver told us "Nogales!" There will be no buses to Nogales! And offered to take us to another town where we could get a transfer. This would only cost a few pesos. We opted to stay there until a bus showed up four hours later that would stop in the little town of Imuris. Imuris was at least on a main highway (15) and with darkness looming, some rough looking local vultures were hovering, and appeared ready to feast on two gringos. We jumped on the bus. The road over the mountains to Imuris was absolutely frightening. The sunset was spectacular. Our strategy paid off; we were able to get a bus to Nogales within minutes of arriving in Imuris. We arrived in Nogales much too late to get our vehicle out of hawk, so we stayed in a hotel in US Nogales. The next morning we drove back to Phoenix. Total individual cost for this trip was less than $600 and $75 of that was for jewelry and souvenirs. For an additional $300 (US) you can fly round trip from Phoenix to Los Mochis in luxury. But why would you want to do that, when you can take a bus--the travel of choice for millions of Mexicans. The joys of travel are not always obtained in reaching one's destination, but in the journey itself. (It is the road, not the inn)We thoroughly enjoyed this trip. Copper Canyon is truly an adventure of a lifetime.
Cradle of Democracy-Massachusetts
Massachusetts, Cradle of Democracy
This was a long over due trip to visit senior relatives. Time is now extremely precious.
Gerry was not able to accompany me due to pressing matters at ASU and a scheduled visit to her parents in San Francisco Bay area.
Flights to and from Logan (Boston) were non events, however, gazing at the closed parking lot at Logan, where the terrorists left their car brought me back to the grim reality.
Although I am thoroughly westernized, my roots are in Massachusetts. If you travel the freedom trail in Boston to Bunker Hill you will find a statue of General Nathaniel Corey,
A direct descendant. Until recently I had all but forgotten the sacrifices our forefathers made for us to have the freedom we enjoy.
Navigating out of Boston presented quite a challenge due to the “Big Dig.” The drive to my Aunt Jean’s (TJ) home in Middleboro, close to the Cape, was dark and lonely, I arrived at 10 P.M. on Sunday evening.
Old Friends
The next morning we visited my 94 year old great Aunt Anna at a rest home in Taunton.
Although she fell asleep numerous times during our hour long stay, she recognized me and expressed to TJ how grateful she was for her to bring me. She told us she was on her last legs.
On the way in to the rest home we heard cries of help from one of the rooms. TJ went in and comforted the woman. On the way out a woman in a wheel chair asked us over and over, “What will I do?” TJ told her that she would figure it out. TJ asked her if she wanted a hug and gave her one.
Simple acts of kindness have been more prevalent recently. TJ has spent her life helping others. She is a retired school teacher and proudly served in the Peace Corps.
Our visits to my mother and her husband Ed would include us bringing much food that made them very happy and us quite full. One night we brought Maine Lobsters.
We also spent some time with my great Aunt Dot.
New England Sweet New England
In between visits we managed to get in several adventures. TJ and I are cut from the same cloth and we both love adventure travel. We drove over 1700 miles through five of six New England States. This much time in the car was spent without hurting each other. There was just one ugly incident after getting lost on the way to New Bedford. I had fired TJ as the navigator and assigned her in an advisory capacity. She did not like her new job and continued doing her old one.
We drove the entire Cape, we went from Bar Harbor Maine to the White Mountains of New Hampshire. We went through the Green Mountains of Vermont where Ethan Allan and the Green Mountain Boys fought for our freedom.
The blazing colors were magnificent. Although not quite at peak, we saw groves of bright red, yellow and orange turned trees throughout the trip. The “tree peepers” will be out in full force next week.
Some highlights of our tour included:
-Hanging out in quaint Province town at the end of the Cape
-Hiking on the Cape Cod National Seashore
-Taking the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard and seeing the ginger bread houses
-Driving the Maine Coast
-Hiking Gorham mountain in Acadia National Park, enjoying the remarkable coast views
-Vermont’s countryside
-Watching the Polar bears at the zoo in Providence RI
Acadia National Park deserves special mention. This is the only National Park in the entire North East but it’s raw beauty leaves you breathless. The coast views are surrealistic. This is the 39th National Park that I have had the privilege of exploring. There are 52 National Parks in our great country. I rank Acadia in my top 5 to date.
We are so fortunate to have these areas designated as National Parks. Thank you Teddy Roosevelt. Thank you John Muir.
I will close with a couple of my thoughts. My friends have cancelled our planned February trip to Tanzania/Kenya to climb Kilamanjaro. I agree with their decision. Nairobi is too high a risk. The mountain will still be there for us. However---------
I keep thinking of FDR’s famous words, “The only thing that we have to fear, is fear itself.”
We need to continue to see and appreciate this beautiful country. Visit our National Parks. Go to New York. Help refuel our economy. The terrorists can not take these liberties away from us.
This was a long over due trip to visit senior relatives. Time is now extremely precious.
Gerry was not able to accompany me due to pressing matters at ASU and a scheduled visit to her parents in San Francisco Bay area.
Flights to and from Logan (Boston) were non events, however, gazing at the closed parking lot at Logan, where the terrorists left their car brought me back to the grim reality.
Although I am thoroughly westernized, my roots are in Massachusetts. If you travel the freedom trail in Boston to Bunker Hill you will find a statue of General Nathaniel Corey,
A direct descendant. Until recently I had all but forgotten the sacrifices our forefathers made for us to have the freedom we enjoy.
Navigating out of Boston presented quite a challenge due to the “Big Dig.” The drive to my Aunt Jean’s (TJ) home in Middleboro, close to the Cape, was dark and lonely, I arrived at 10 P.M. on Sunday evening.
Old Friends
The next morning we visited my 94 year old great Aunt Anna at a rest home in Taunton.
Although she fell asleep numerous times during our hour long stay, she recognized me and expressed to TJ how grateful she was for her to bring me. She told us she was on her last legs.
On the way in to the rest home we heard cries of help from one of the rooms. TJ went in and comforted the woman. On the way out a woman in a wheel chair asked us over and over, “What will I do?” TJ told her that she would figure it out. TJ asked her if she wanted a hug and gave her one.
Simple acts of kindness have been more prevalent recently. TJ has spent her life helping others. She is a retired school teacher and proudly served in the Peace Corps.
Our visits to my mother and her husband Ed would include us bringing much food that made them very happy and us quite full. One night we brought Maine Lobsters.
We also spent some time with my great Aunt Dot.
New England Sweet New England
In between visits we managed to get in several adventures. TJ and I are cut from the same cloth and we both love adventure travel. We drove over 1700 miles through five of six New England States. This much time in the car was spent without hurting each other. There was just one ugly incident after getting lost on the way to New Bedford. I had fired TJ as the navigator and assigned her in an advisory capacity. She did not like her new job and continued doing her old one.
We drove the entire Cape, we went from Bar Harbor Maine to the White Mountains of New Hampshire. We went through the Green Mountains of Vermont where Ethan Allan and the Green Mountain Boys fought for our freedom.
The blazing colors were magnificent. Although not quite at peak, we saw groves of bright red, yellow and orange turned trees throughout the trip. The “tree peepers” will be out in full force next week.
Some highlights of our tour included:
-Hanging out in quaint Province town at the end of the Cape
-Hiking on the Cape Cod National Seashore
-Taking the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard and seeing the ginger bread houses
-Driving the Maine Coast
-Hiking Gorham mountain in Acadia National Park, enjoying the remarkable coast views
-Vermont’s countryside
-Watching the Polar bears at the zoo in Providence RI
Acadia National Park deserves special mention. This is the only National Park in the entire North East but it’s raw beauty leaves you breathless. The coast views are surrealistic. This is the 39th National Park that I have had the privilege of exploring. There are 52 National Parks in our great country. I rank Acadia in my top 5 to date.
We are so fortunate to have these areas designated as National Parks. Thank you Teddy Roosevelt. Thank you John Muir.
I will close with a couple of my thoughts. My friends have cancelled our planned February trip to Tanzania/Kenya to climb Kilamanjaro. I agree with their decision. Nairobi is too high a risk. The mountain will still be there for us. However---------
I keep thinking of FDR’s famous words, “The only thing that we have to fear, is fear itself.”
We need to continue to see and appreciate this beautiful country. Visit our National Parks. Go to New York. Help refuel our economy. The terrorists can not take these liberties away from us.
North Bass _Grand Canyon
Each man sees himself in the Grand Canyon -Carl Sandburg
North Bass Trail-- 27 miles R/T -- 10,640' elevation gain/loss This trip has been on my radar screen for three years, rescheduled numerous times. This one was also in danger of being scrapped.
Our permit was for a group of five. Three of us finally did end up going. John had to drop out due to a serious cold and did not want to jeopardize the group. He really wanted to go, and I felt bad for him. This was certainly an excused absence. Steve dropped out due to it being too hot, and a grandchild due soon. Steve has also opted out of expeditions at the last minute because it was too cold. Weather is not an excused absence, however a first new grandchild does qualify for exclusion. Or, perhaps, the Master Grand Canyoneer could not get a weekend pass due to spending much of May in the Canyon?El Lobo was hobbled by nagging leg injuries and fighting off a cold but his commitment and compulsive need to get another check off the list put him at the trailhead. Lorenzo fought off work pressures and Dan was simply ready to go, and did the driving.We left from Phoenix for the eight hour drive to the Swamp Point trailhead on the North Rim early Wednesday morning, negotiated the 20 miles of back roads without problems and arrived in the late afternoon. The views were panoramic and we took advantage of the time by sitting in comfortable camp chairs, sipping cervezas and enjoying the extraordinary sunset. Dan prepared a gourmet dinner of salad and ravioli that night. Steve had volunteered to provide a pasta dinner. Dan graciously covered him.Question at the trailhead: Where's Steve?Answer at the trailhead: At his cozy Scottsdale home, in his polka dot pajamas on the couch eating huge bowls of mashed potatoes and gravy.The North Bass trail is actually more of a route than a trail and is arbitrarily documented in some publications as the most difficult and demanding trail in the canyon, involving inventive route finding and a good deal of exposure to steep cliffs. It is an old Indian route once known as the Shinimu trail and later improved upon by William Bass whom had constructed the South Bass trail in the 1880s and utilized the system to guide tourists and hunters. Bass constructed a cable system on the river that is long gone.The first mile brings you to Muav Saddle and to a cabin built by the Park Service in 1925. Teddy Roosevelt camped here while hunting mountain lions so the cabin is sometimes is referred to as "Teddy's cabin." It is in very good condition and hikers can sign in at a register located in the cabin. One of the comments written by a female backpacker was particularly inspiring. "My ass is fine. This can't be one of the hardest hikes in the canyon".We agreed that this fine line reflected how much progress our sisters have made in achieving equality. You've come a long way baby!The views down to White Creek were extraordinary. Climbing down to the Redwall generated deep thoughts and questions such as; exactly what temperature is just right to hike the canyon?Where's Steve?We were never more than a couple of miles from water all the way to the confluence with Shinimu creek where we camped. We elected to follow the drainage instead of the trail where we knew we had access to water. It took us eight hours and we arrived at 2:00 in the afternoon, leaving us plenty of time to cool off in the fast flowing Shinimu creek. Temperatures were well above the century level and the cold water soothed our hot bodies and sore feet. Probably due to the intense heat, there was not much dialogue among the group. Dan casually commented that the shrilling cicada noise was unpleasant. I hadn't noticed it before he mentioned it but now that my hearing sense was activated it became deafening and made me a little crazy. Thanks Dan. We heard thunder in the distance and a storm started to move in. Mysteriously, the insect noise stopped. We received some rain that was very welcome. The storm passed and as soon as it did the loud cicada noise immediately started again. That was interesting.Other small talk included: Question: Where's Steve?Answer: Napping or eating huge scoops of ice creamAt 9:30 that night my thermometer displayed 99 degrees. Going to sleep presented a challenge.The next morning the three of us headed off for a day hike to the river. On route, Dan turned his ankle and elected to spend the day soaking it in the creek and resting it for the gruesome hike out. Lorenzo and I continued following the creek, that required many crossings. At Shinimu camp where Bass once lived there was many interesting artifacts.We came across a small group from a private rafting expedition and they invited us to drop in on their camp on the Colorado for something cold to drink. This was something to look forward to, as our water would very quickly turn sickening hot after filtering. We followed the creek to within 100 yards of the river and could not gain passage, rim locked over a 40 foot water fall. Not desiring to negotiate this problem we returned to search for passage. We thought we may have found a route up and over but the steep lava rock was too hot and difficult to climb. At this point we back tracked to a wonderful pool and jumped in for survival. The temperature was registering at 110.Needless to say, it was one of the best dips we have ever had. We decided to make another go at getting to the river and after a 400 foot steep ascent we found a pronounced path and took it to the river.Immediately upon reaching the Colorado we jumped into the 47 degree water. It is amazing how cold that river stays.We were really looking forward to that promised "cold drink" but no one was around. We finally located one fellow that looked at us in disbelief and asked if we were crazy hiking down here. I suggested that we might be thirsty and that a cold drink would be great and he responded, "the Colorado River water is free." This was not what we had in mind. Our new friend then spent five minutes bitching about the river trip and how hot it was. We took some of his free water, thanked him for his hospitality, and started back. We discovered a much better route that took us moderately down to our swimming hole and again jumped in. We crossed paths with our river friends that politely asked if we had been given cold refreshments. "Oh yes, thank you very much."Back in camp Dan was doing fine with some pain in his ankle but confident of the hike out. The original plan was to take two days to get out and to spend one night on the Redwall.We elected to scrap that option and hike all the way out. Staying on the Redwall at poor camp sites with hot water to drink was determined to be far more miserable than a torturous, continuous climb with cool cervezas and sodas at the top. The first seven miles went very well but the last three were a wee bit challenging. There was little shade and it was El Lobo that occasionally lost the necessary positive attitude. G-----med Bass!!!!! Crazy SOB!!! Came from El Lobo's lips more than once, as sweat trickled off his body.Lorenzo and Dan remained positive and strong.Question on the grueling ascent: Where's Steve?Answer on the grueling ascent: Probably eating lunch at Earls, sipping iced teaWe got out in nine hours and set up the chairs on a shaded part of the rim and sucked down numerous sodas and San Salvador cervezas. We then packed up and drove the back road to the Kaibab Lodge where we dined on double cheese bacon burgers and washed them down with cold beer. After dinner the young lads got a little out of control and continued to order huge volumes of Bass Ale. El Lobo had to drag them out of the bar. There were no rooms left at the lodge. We now had to find a camp site on a back road in the dark. Dan just pulled off a side road close to the lodge and we threw down our bags. About two in the morning El Lobo got up to get in the cooler for a coke. He was totally dehydrated. A horrible alarm went off and the lights on the truck kept flashing on and off. After Dan cheerfully fixed this little problem, El Lobo reached into the cooler and pulled out his soda that felt a little strange in the dark. It appeared that it was covered with lard? It was really awful! There was also a terrible smell but El Lobo just wiped his hands on his shirt and sucked down the drink. It was that, or die of thirst. The next morning we got up at five, and discovered that indeed, there was something greasy in the cooler. It was covered with garlic butter that had tipped over when Dan was wildly driving to our camp site. We cleaned up the mess, broke camp and headed for the North Rim Lodge. We were able to shower in the campgrounds and then had a terrific breakfast in the beautiful lodge dining room, at a table with a knock out canyon view. We then headed back to Phoenix.Question on the road: Where's Steve?Answer on the road: Still sleepingDan got us back in town close to three. This allowed for time to clean gear and have a nice Sunday dinner. Question at my house: Where's Steve?Answer at my house: Dreaming of washboard Abs
North Bass Trail-- 27 miles R/T -- 10,640' elevation gain/loss This trip has been on my radar screen for three years, rescheduled numerous times. This one was also in danger of being scrapped.
Our permit was for a group of five. Three of us finally did end up going. John had to drop out due to a serious cold and did not want to jeopardize the group. He really wanted to go, and I felt bad for him. This was certainly an excused absence. Steve dropped out due to it being too hot, and a grandchild due soon. Steve has also opted out of expeditions at the last minute because it was too cold. Weather is not an excused absence, however a first new grandchild does qualify for exclusion. Or, perhaps, the Master Grand Canyoneer could not get a weekend pass due to spending much of May in the Canyon?El Lobo was hobbled by nagging leg injuries and fighting off a cold but his commitment and compulsive need to get another check off the list put him at the trailhead. Lorenzo fought off work pressures and Dan was simply ready to go, and did the driving.We left from Phoenix for the eight hour drive to the Swamp Point trailhead on the North Rim early Wednesday morning, negotiated the 20 miles of back roads without problems and arrived in the late afternoon. The views were panoramic and we took advantage of the time by sitting in comfortable camp chairs, sipping cervezas and enjoying the extraordinary sunset. Dan prepared a gourmet dinner of salad and ravioli that night. Steve had volunteered to provide a pasta dinner. Dan graciously covered him.Question at the trailhead: Where's Steve?Answer at the trailhead: At his cozy Scottsdale home, in his polka dot pajamas on the couch eating huge bowls of mashed potatoes and gravy.The North Bass trail is actually more of a route than a trail and is arbitrarily documented in some publications as the most difficult and demanding trail in the canyon, involving inventive route finding and a good deal of exposure to steep cliffs. It is an old Indian route once known as the Shinimu trail and later improved upon by William Bass whom had constructed the South Bass trail in the 1880s and utilized the system to guide tourists and hunters. Bass constructed a cable system on the river that is long gone.The first mile brings you to Muav Saddle and to a cabin built by the Park Service in 1925. Teddy Roosevelt camped here while hunting mountain lions so the cabin is sometimes is referred to as "Teddy's cabin." It is in very good condition and hikers can sign in at a register located in the cabin. One of the comments written by a female backpacker was particularly inspiring. "My ass is fine. This can't be one of the hardest hikes in the canyon".We agreed that this fine line reflected how much progress our sisters have made in achieving equality. You've come a long way baby!The views down to White Creek were extraordinary. Climbing down to the Redwall generated deep thoughts and questions such as; exactly what temperature is just right to hike the canyon?Where's Steve?We were never more than a couple of miles from water all the way to the confluence with Shinimu creek where we camped. We elected to follow the drainage instead of the trail where we knew we had access to water. It took us eight hours and we arrived at 2:00 in the afternoon, leaving us plenty of time to cool off in the fast flowing Shinimu creek. Temperatures were well above the century level and the cold water soothed our hot bodies and sore feet. Probably due to the intense heat, there was not much dialogue among the group. Dan casually commented that the shrilling cicada noise was unpleasant. I hadn't noticed it before he mentioned it but now that my hearing sense was activated it became deafening and made me a little crazy. Thanks Dan. We heard thunder in the distance and a storm started to move in. Mysteriously, the insect noise stopped. We received some rain that was very welcome. The storm passed and as soon as it did the loud cicada noise immediately started again. That was interesting.Other small talk included: Question: Where's Steve?Answer: Napping or eating huge scoops of ice creamAt 9:30 that night my thermometer displayed 99 degrees. Going to sleep presented a challenge.The next morning the three of us headed off for a day hike to the river. On route, Dan turned his ankle and elected to spend the day soaking it in the creek and resting it for the gruesome hike out. Lorenzo and I continued following the creek, that required many crossings. At Shinimu camp where Bass once lived there was many interesting artifacts.We came across a small group from a private rafting expedition and they invited us to drop in on their camp on the Colorado for something cold to drink. This was something to look forward to, as our water would very quickly turn sickening hot after filtering. We followed the creek to within 100 yards of the river and could not gain passage, rim locked over a 40 foot water fall. Not desiring to negotiate this problem we returned to search for passage. We thought we may have found a route up and over but the steep lava rock was too hot and difficult to climb. At this point we back tracked to a wonderful pool and jumped in for survival. The temperature was registering at 110.Needless to say, it was one of the best dips we have ever had. We decided to make another go at getting to the river and after a 400 foot steep ascent we found a pronounced path and took it to the river.Immediately upon reaching the Colorado we jumped into the 47 degree water. It is amazing how cold that river stays.We were really looking forward to that promised "cold drink" but no one was around. We finally located one fellow that looked at us in disbelief and asked if we were crazy hiking down here. I suggested that we might be thirsty and that a cold drink would be great and he responded, "the Colorado River water is free." This was not what we had in mind. Our new friend then spent five minutes bitching about the river trip and how hot it was. We took some of his free water, thanked him for his hospitality, and started back. We discovered a much better route that took us moderately down to our swimming hole and again jumped in. We crossed paths with our river friends that politely asked if we had been given cold refreshments. "Oh yes, thank you very much."Back in camp Dan was doing fine with some pain in his ankle but confident of the hike out. The original plan was to take two days to get out and to spend one night on the Redwall.We elected to scrap that option and hike all the way out. Staying on the Redwall at poor camp sites with hot water to drink was determined to be far more miserable than a torturous, continuous climb with cool cervezas and sodas at the top. The first seven miles went very well but the last three were a wee bit challenging. There was little shade and it was El Lobo that occasionally lost the necessary positive attitude. G-----med Bass!!!!! Crazy SOB!!! Came from El Lobo's lips more than once, as sweat trickled off his body.Lorenzo and Dan remained positive and strong.Question on the grueling ascent: Where's Steve?Answer on the grueling ascent: Probably eating lunch at Earls, sipping iced teaWe got out in nine hours and set up the chairs on a shaded part of the rim and sucked down numerous sodas and San Salvador cervezas. We then packed up and drove the back road to the Kaibab Lodge where we dined on double cheese bacon burgers and washed them down with cold beer. After dinner the young lads got a little out of control and continued to order huge volumes of Bass Ale. El Lobo had to drag them out of the bar. There were no rooms left at the lodge. We now had to find a camp site on a back road in the dark. Dan just pulled off a side road close to the lodge and we threw down our bags. About two in the morning El Lobo got up to get in the cooler for a coke. He was totally dehydrated. A horrible alarm went off and the lights on the truck kept flashing on and off. After Dan cheerfully fixed this little problem, El Lobo reached into the cooler and pulled out his soda that felt a little strange in the dark. It appeared that it was covered with lard? It was really awful! There was also a terrible smell but El Lobo just wiped his hands on his shirt and sucked down the drink. It was that, or die of thirst. The next morning we got up at five, and discovered that indeed, there was something greasy in the cooler. It was covered with garlic butter that had tipped over when Dan was wildly driving to our camp site. We cleaned up the mess, broke camp and headed for the North Rim Lodge. We were able to shower in the campgrounds and then had a terrific breakfast in the beautiful lodge dining room, at a table with a knock out canyon view. We then headed back to Phoenix.Question on the road: Where's Steve?Answer on the road: Still sleepingDan got us back in town close to three. This allowed for time to clean gear and have a nice Sunday dinner. Question at my house: Where's Steve?Answer at my house: Dreaming of washboard Abs
6/10/2001
Gila Wilderness New Mexico
Como estan ustedes?
The six pack of (Lorenzo, Dan, Hannu, Lobo, Drew and Wilson returned from the Gila Wilderness New Mexico late last night, tired but still in awe of the wild, steep rugged mountains, deep canyons, mesas, and mountain streams that characterize America’s first Wilderness. It was a pilgrimage to the Mecca. Thanks to the vision and leadership of Aldo Leopold, Forrest ranger, writer, and pioneer of wildlife ecology, that 755,000 acres in the headwaters of the Gila River were set aside in 1924. The Gila Wilderness is a blend of the Rocky Mountains, the Sierra Madre Mountains from Mexico and the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts. Together this combination is unbeatable. It was gorgeous!
We car camped for four days. My strong preference is to back pack into a remote area, but the seduction of comfy camp chairs, four cases of fifteen different beers, and meals of steak, fajitas, and tortelini made the car camping very acceptable. This was our first visit to the Wilderness and we covered a lot of ground, scoping and planning for future back packs.
Highlights of this trip included:
-Iron Creek day hike through lush Forrest to one of the many permanent streams in the Gila
-Liberty Ale, Guinness, Flying Dog, Guyama, Sierra Nevada, Lowenbrau, Bud light, Stone IPA, Pacifico, Nimbus Pale Ale, Pilsner Urqull, Eureka Honey Wheat by the fire
-Day Hike on the Crest trail-18 miles of high mountain forest and isolation in the heart of the Wilderness
-Day hiking the WORLD famous “CATWALK” suspended from the walls of a narrow rocky gorge with the rushing Whitewater Creek below
-Visiting the ancient Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument and scoring a patch
-Hiking the Gila West Fork through fields of sunflowers to cliff dwellings
Wildlife sightings included many varmints, deer, and a blacktailed rattlesnake. Three Mexican Wolves are presently roaming this Wilderness.
Overall, rating for this trip is a 9.6. This was a great group of guys and I thoroughly enjoyed the time we shared. However, there were a few ugly incidents.
Men Behaving Badly:
Incident # 1
After Hannu drug us eighteen miles at 10,000’ up and down 6,000’ of elevation gain/loss on a death march at a three mile an hour clip, Lorenzo and I were chewed out for not going faster. “We were slow,” yelled Hannu, “four hours would have been an acceptable time.”
We were allowed to stop for five seconds on the saddle to look at the view.
“But Hannu, wasn’t this a recreational hike?”
I think Hannu is not a Fin but a Tarahuamara Indian!
Incident # 2
On the seven hour drive to the Wilderness, Drew offered El Lobo a bottle of Beano.
Now why would any guy ever use that type of product? It could ruin you for life.
Incident #3
Late one night around the campfire after much firewater, Hannu went ballistic and screamed at El Lobo “I have been to 36 countries, I know such things, you do not know
S*&t” This climaxed an important philosophical discussion on whether or not you could get aroused if you were in a 220 degree Swedish sauna with a nude Pam Anderson.
Hannu also challenged El Lobo’s Alpha male authority, specifically regarding some demerits that he had received. Perhaps fearful of being banished from the pack to wander alone in the Gila Wilderness he later made amends and admitted that he was ticked off that nobody wanted to trail run 30 miles with him to the Gila Cliff Dwellings.
Incident #4
The group was quite jealous of El Lobo’s relationship with Wilson. Wilson is a wood massager equipped with four strong legs and a happy face. There was much vicious gossip that El Lobo had frequently slipped away to his tent with Wilson.
The six pack of (Lorenzo, Dan, Hannu, Lobo, Drew and Wilson returned from the Gila Wilderness New Mexico late last night, tired but still in awe of the wild, steep rugged mountains, deep canyons, mesas, and mountain streams that characterize America’s first Wilderness. It was a pilgrimage to the Mecca. Thanks to the vision and leadership of Aldo Leopold, Forrest ranger, writer, and pioneer of wildlife ecology, that 755,000 acres in the headwaters of the Gila River were set aside in 1924. The Gila Wilderness is a blend of the Rocky Mountains, the Sierra Madre Mountains from Mexico and the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts. Together this combination is unbeatable. It was gorgeous!
We car camped for four days. My strong preference is to back pack into a remote area, but the seduction of comfy camp chairs, four cases of fifteen different beers, and meals of steak, fajitas, and tortelini made the car camping very acceptable. This was our first visit to the Wilderness and we covered a lot of ground, scoping and planning for future back packs.
Highlights of this trip included:
-Iron Creek day hike through lush Forrest to one of the many permanent streams in the Gila
-Liberty Ale, Guinness, Flying Dog, Guyama, Sierra Nevada, Lowenbrau, Bud light, Stone IPA, Pacifico, Nimbus Pale Ale, Pilsner Urqull, Eureka Honey Wheat by the fire
-Day Hike on the Crest trail-18 miles of high mountain forest and isolation in the heart of the Wilderness
-Day hiking the WORLD famous “CATWALK” suspended from the walls of a narrow rocky gorge with the rushing Whitewater Creek below
-Visiting the ancient Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument and scoring a patch
-Hiking the Gila West Fork through fields of sunflowers to cliff dwellings
Wildlife sightings included many varmints, deer, and a blacktailed rattlesnake. Three Mexican Wolves are presently roaming this Wilderness.
Overall, rating for this trip is a 9.6. This was a great group of guys and I thoroughly enjoyed the time we shared. However, there were a few ugly incidents.
Men Behaving Badly:
Incident # 1
After Hannu drug us eighteen miles at 10,000’ up and down 6,000’ of elevation gain/loss on a death march at a three mile an hour clip, Lorenzo and I were chewed out for not going faster. “We were slow,” yelled Hannu, “four hours would have been an acceptable time.”
We were allowed to stop for five seconds on the saddle to look at the view.
“But Hannu, wasn’t this a recreational hike?”
I think Hannu is not a Fin but a Tarahuamara Indian!
Incident # 2
On the seven hour drive to the Wilderness, Drew offered El Lobo a bottle of Beano.
Now why would any guy ever use that type of product? It could ruin you for life.
Incident #3
Late one night around the campfire after much firewater, Hannu went ballistic and screamed at El Lobo “I have been to 36 countries, I know such things, you do not know
S*&t” This climaxed an important philosophical discussion on whether or not you could get aroused if you were in a 220 degree Swedish sauna with a nude Pam Anderson.
Hannu also challenged El Lobo’s Alpha male authority, specifically regarding some demerits that he had received. Perhaps fearful of being banished from the pack to wander alone in the Gila Wilderness he later made amends and admitted that he was ticked off that nobody wanted to trail run 30 miles with him to the Gila Cliff Dwellings.
Incident #4
The group was quite jealous of El Lobo’s relationship with Wilson. Wilson is a wood massager equipped with four strong legs and a happy face. There was much vicious gossip that El Lobo had frequently slipped away to his tent with Wilson.
1/05/2001
Southern Arizona
Ger and I spent Monday and Tuesday hanging out in Southern Arizona watching our law enforcement units at their best, or worst depending on your point of view. The border patrol seemed to be everywhere. They must be inspired by Ashcroft’s visit and promise to bolster their forces for the good fight.
Highlights of this trip include:
-Caving at Kartchner Caverns
-Birding in Patagonia
-Slamming down cervezas while shopping in Nogales
-Dining at “La Roca”
-Hiking the Atacosa trail to Atacosa lookout in the footsteps of Edward Abbey
-Blowing out a tire in the backroads
-Bending down and taking a speeding ticket from a Santa Cruz Sheriff
Kartchner caverns, located in the Whetstone Mountains near Benson is quite a popular attraction and requires reservations months in advance. The state has done an outstanding job with the visitor center, trails and gardens. The caverns were discovered twenty five years ago but kept secret for fourteen years. The temperature is a warm 68 degrees in the caverns. This tour is well worth taking, even if you are not a spelunker.
We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the gardens and then headed for Patagonia where we spent a few hours in the backyard of the Patten's, watching hundreds of hummingbirds at their feeders. We saw many varieties, including the ruby throated and violet crowned. Patagonia is internationally known as a premier birder’s paradise and a wonderful spot to visit. Hundreds of other birds were at the feeders. This was a very mellow afternoon.
In the late afternoon we arrived at Nogales, got a room at the Best Western and went shopping. Shopping is so much more fun with a Pacifico or Negro Modello in hand.
We found a couple of little treasures and were on our way to dinner when we were approached by an hombre selling a beautiful jewelry set and willing to make us quite a bargain. Monday is the best day to shop in Nogales. His price went from $50.00 to $10.00. Ger commented that she had no outfit to wear with it, and the hombre replied “wear it naked”. I quickly handed him the ten bucks, and bought him a beer with visions of a wild evening in the old Best Western.
That evening we dined at “La Roca” a wonderful restaurant, evocative of another time, built out of the side of mountain rock. It is quietly elegant staffed with white jacketed waiters. I discovered La Roca on a guy’s weekend and promised to take Ger there. The food was excellent. She loved it.
The next morning we hiked up to the Atacosa lookout, west of the Pena Blanca Recreation area. This five mile round trip climb, up 1600’ of elevation presented an interesting array of plant types. The wildflowers were splendid! On top is an abandoned fire lookout that is in great shape. There is firewood and a wood burning stove. A nearby outhouse barely clings to the cliff’s edge.
Edward Abbey spent time here in 1968. Posted to the walls are excerpts from his “Confessions of a Barbarian.” It described Edward’s loneliness and despair, hiking up on a windy night in June 1968, after Bobby Kennedy was assassinated. Reading this left me with a haunted feeling.
This hike is rated a solid 9.6.
And then;
Driving back we suffered a blowout on a back road. The temperature was in the high nineties. An opportunity for problem solving. The last time we broke down we had two flat tires on the Mogollon Rim. Fixing one should be easy, however the stock jack was not industrial strength to do the job. Where were all the Border patrol that was crawling around before, now that you need them? We did finally get some help from a couple of very nice young bucs and a forest ranger with a decent jack.
We headed back to Nogales on the donut tire and made it to a Goodyear shop. While in the waiting room, El Lobo noticed that a German Shepherd was in the cab of his truck. Next, questions from a US customs agent. The dog was growling at the bag that had El Lobo's’soiled underwear. In the mean time, two other cars and drivers were being searched. After trunks were opened, handcuffs were applied and arrests made. El Lobo, fortunately was not charged with “dirty underwear” and we were free to start down I19 with a brand new tire.
“What a field day for the heat”
On the way back there was a border patrol checkpoint detour. On route to the checkpoint we could not help but notice six law enforcement cars clustered together. One started to follow Lobo while others followed other cars. The red light went on and a Sheriff asked Lobo if he knew why he had stopped him. Lobo responded “No Sir,” silently translated “perhaps, because you are a f*&^^ a&(&**e”
I received a ticket for going 76 in a 55 zone. “Thank you!” Silently translated to F*&k y*&. It appears a little funny that the speed limit at 75, changed so suddenly with the border patrol detour. Ambush-we were massacred!!
Traffic school will compliment my yoga, tennis, mountaineering and Spanish classes. I can always use the credit hours.
The trip rating was a 10 before the flat tire and ticket, now has been downgraded to an 8.
The ticket goes on my top five of all time gettin screwed.
We arrived home without further incident in time to rush and get dressed for an ASU dinner featuring a speaker on the historical human ecological impact. This was really interesting and ended the day on a good note.
Buenos Tardes
Highlights of this trip include:
-Caving at Kartchner Caverns
-Birding in Patagonia
-Slamming down cervezas while shopping in Nogales
-Dining at “La Roca”
-Hiking the Atacosa trail to Atacosa lookout in the footsteps of Edward Abbey
-Blowing out a tire in the backroads
-Bending down and taking a speeding ticket from a Santa Cruz Sheriff
Kartchner caverns, located in the Whetstone Mountains near Benson is quite a popular attraction and requires reservations months in advance. The state has done an outstanding job with the visitor center, trails and gardens. The caverns were discovered twenty five years ago but kept secret for fourteen years. The temperature is a warm 68 degrees in the caverns. This tour is well worth taking, even if you are not a spelunker.
We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the gardens and then headed for Patagonia where we spent a few hours in the backyard of the Patten's, watching hundreds of hummingbirds at their feeders. We saw many varieties, including the ruby throated and violet crowned. Patagonia is internationally known as a premier birder’s paradise and a wonderful spot to visit. Hundreds of other birds were at the feeders. This was a very mellow afternoon.
In the late afternoon we arrived at Nogales, got a room at the Best Western and went shopping. Shopping is so much more fun with a Pacifico or Negro Modello in hand.
We found a couple of little treasures and were on our way to dinner when we were approached by an hombre selling a beautiful jewelry set and willing to make us quite a bargain. Monday is the best day to shop in Nogales. His price went from $50.00 to $10.00. Ger commented that she had no outfit to wear with it, and the hombre replied “wear it naked”. I quickly handed him the ten bucks, and bought him a beer with visions of a wild evening in the old Best Western.
That evening we dined at “La Roca” a wonderful restaurant, evocative of another time, built out of the side of mountain rock. It is quietly elegant staffed with white jacketed waiters. I discovered La Roca on a guy’s weekend and promised to take Ger there. The food was excellent. She loved it.
The next morning we hiked up to the Atacosa lookout, west of the Pena Blanca Recreation area. This five mile round trip climb, up 1600’ of elevation presented an interesting array of plant types. The wildflowers were splendid! On top is an abandoned fire lookout that is in great shape. There is firewood and a wood burning stove. A nearby outhouse barely clings to the cliff’s edge.
Edward Abbey spent time here in 1968. Posted to the walls are excerpts from his “Confessions of a Barbarian.” It described Edward’s loneliness and despair, hiking up on a windy night in June 1968, after Bobby Kennedy was assassinated. Reading this left me with a haunted feeling.
This hike is rated a solid 9.6.
And then;
Driving back we suffered a blowout on a back road. The temperature was in the high nineties. An opportunity for problem solving. The last time we broke down we had two flat tires on the Mogollon Rim. Fixing one should be easy, however the stock jack was not industrial strength to do the job. Where were all the Border patrol that was crawling around before, now that you need them? We did finally get some help from a couple of very nice young bucs and a forest ranger with a decent jack.
We headed back to Nogales on the donut tire and made it to a Goodyear shop. While in the waiting room, El Lobo noticed that a German Shepherd was in the cab of his truck. Next, questions from a US customs agent. The dog was growling at the bag that had El Lobo's’soiled underwear. In the mean time, two other cars and drivers were being searched. After trunks were opened, handcuffs were applied and arrests made. El Lobo, fortunately was not charged with “dirty underwear” and we were free to start down I19 with a brand new tire.
“What a field day for the heat”
On the way back there was a border patrol checkpoint detour. On route to the checkpoint we could not help but notice six law enforcement cars clustered together. One started to follow Lobo while others followed other cars. The red light went on and a Sheriff asked Lobo if he knew why he had stopped him. Lobo responded “No Sir,” silently translated “perhaps, because you are a f*&^^ a&(&**e”
I received a ticket for going 76 in a 55 zone. “Thank you!” Silently translated to F*&k y*&. It appears a little funny that the speed limit at 75, changed so suddenly with the border patrol detour. Ambush-we were massacred!!
Traffic school will compliment my yoga, tennis, mountaineering and Spanish classes. I can always use the credit hours.
The trip rating was a 10 before the flat tire and ticket, now has been downgraded to an 8.
The ticket goes on my top five of all time gettin screwed.
We arrived home without further incident in time to rush and get dressed for an ASU dinner featuring a speaker on the historical human ecological impact. This was really interesting and ended the day on a good note.
Buenos Tardes
10/15/2000
KP Cienega-Blue Ridge Primitive Area
"Strawberries, cherries, and an angel's kiss in spring. My summer wine is made from all these things." Nancy Sinatra & Lee Hazlewood-Summer wine 1967
Que pasa amigos,My son Jacobo and I just returned from our campground at 9000' where weescaped the valley's intense heat and found our summer wine.K. P. Cienega is five miles south of Hannegan Meadows on US route 191 andthen 1.5 miles east of FR 155. There are only five loosely spaced units ofthis campground that lie on a loop road on the fringes of the conifer andaspen forest. Below the campsites, lovely meadows grace the area where anabundance of wildlife can be viewed. Every time that Jake and I have beenhere we have had the campground to ourselves.The last time we were here weheard some of the Mexican Grey Woves. There are forty lobos roaming thearea.Close to where we camped are a number of small but perennial streams linedby magnificent forests of hardwoods. There is excellent fishing in the Blueand Black Rivers, home to brook, brown, and rainbow trout as well as a fewof the endangered Apache trout. We may have seen a couple of these on ourhike in the Bear Wallow Wilderness. This is a hiker's paradise, withexcellent conditions for wildflowers.And, the best part is that very few of our species come here, due to thisremote location. I know that I am gushing, but with good reason.Highlights of this trip include:-Wildlife sightings of 2 black bears, flocks of wild turkeys, deer and elk.-Wildflowers galore! and where there are wildflowers there arebutterflies-- everywhere.-Magnificent hiking: Bear Wallow Trail-16 miles Upper Fish Creek Trail-5 miles West Fork of the Black River-6 miles-Over cervezas, viewing the brilliant display of stars in the Arizona sky.-Dinner at the Hannegan Meadows LodgeMen Behaving badly-Jacobo, for refusing to study or even take interest in the display ofanimal skat in the Ranger's office. Jake doesen't know SKAT!!!-Jacobo & El Lobo, real men, enjoying butterflies and wildflowers?
Que pasa amigos,My son Jacobo and I just returned from our campground at 9000' where weescaped the valley's intense heat and found our summer wine.K. P. Cienega is five miles south of Hannegan Meadows on US route 191 andthen 1.5 miles east of FR 155. There are only five loosely spaced units ofthis campground that lie on a loop road on the fringes of the conifer andaspen forest. Below the campsites, lovely meadows grace the area where anabundance of wildlife can be viewed. Every time that Jake and I have beenhere we have had the campground to ourselves.The last time we were here weheard some of the Mexican Grey Woves. There are forty lobos roaming thearea.Close to where we camped are a number of small but perennial streams linedby magnificent forests of hardwoods. There is excellent fishing in the Blueand Black Rivers, home to brook, brown, and rainbow trout as well as a fewof the endangered Apache trout. We may have seen a couple of these on ourhike in the Bear Wallow Wilderness. This is a hiker's paradise, withexcellent conditions for wildflowers.And, the best part is that very few of our species come here, due to thisremote location. I know that I am gushing, but with good reason.Highlights of this trip include:-Wildlife sightings of 2 black bears, flocks of wild turkeys, deer and elk.-Wildflowers galore! and where there are wildflowers there arebutterflies-- everywhere.-Magnificent hiking: Bear Wallow Trail-16 miles Upper Fish Creek Trail-5 miles West Fork of the Black River-6 miles-Over cervezas, viewing the brilliant display of stars in the Arizona sky.-Dinner at the Hannegan Meadows LodgeMen Behaving badly-Jacobo, for refusing to study or even take interest in the display ofanimal skat in the Ranger's office. Jake doesen't know SKAT!!!-Jacobo & El Lobo, real men, enjoying butterflies and wildflowers?
Montana Mountain Superstitions
Montana Mountain-5557'-10 miles-2800 ft. elevation gainI haven't hiked in the Superstitions for about five years, I had coveredmostof the trails and simply felt that there were better alternatives to deserthiking.I decided to go on a Sierra Club Hike and check out the environmentalimpactduring the last five years.The hike was a lot fun and it restored my love of the Supers. I amplanningon doing an off trail ridgeline trek for 15 miles. I will go up throughSyphon draw.We hiked through Whitford Canyon on portions of the Arizona trail and thehistoric trade route used by Elisha Reavis. On top of Montana mountain wewere treated to a panoramic view, looking down on most of the SuperstitionWilderness.I hiked with John, whom is 79 years young. He was the first to the top. He asked me if I would like a beer? I said I would love one, and to myastonishment, he pulled two Old Milwaukee's out of his pack that had beenonice!John Chugged his. I sipped mine.On the road we met a group resembleing the characters from Mad Max, dunebuggies etc. One interesting looking fella asked if I wanted a cool one?I responded that I would love one! He then took the beer out of hissignificant other's hand and gave it to me, half gone. He then cracked openanew one.I thanked him and his significant other and downed the rest.If I recall, the same thing happened to Clark Griswold in the movieVacation.His brother in law-EDDIE -made the same offer and gave Clark theopen beer and cracked a new one for hisself.
Superstitions Backpack
Superstition Wilderness Backpack
Participants: Bruce Corey and John HofdahlI picked up Bruce at 6:00 AM and we embarked on what was supposed to be atwo-day loop in the Superstition Mountains. The forecast was sunshine witha high of 68 degrees. We arrived at the Peralta Trailhead at about 7:15AM.We agreed on a twenty-one mile loop that basically circled Coffee FlatMountain. The Dutchman, Coffee Flat and the Red Tanks Trails were thetrails we would travel. The Coffee Flat Trail veered off the well-traveledDutchman Trail.We were basically the first ones at the trailhead and the only humans wesawon the route were two hunters. They were decked out in camouflage huntingJavalina with bows. We spoke to them for a short moment as we all agreedonwhat a beautiful day it was. It felt like it was 75 degrees and there wasnot a cloud in the sky. The mountains were beautiful. We took inspectacular views of Miner's Needle and Buzzard's Roost.We noticed how well the Saguaro's looked. They were very plump whichsurprised us because we haven't had much rain. We also saw some greatChainFruit Cholla's. They were as big as trees.As we traveled down the Coffee Flat Trail we began to notice increasingamounts of horse droppings. I didn't think much of it; I guess I justwatched my step. On two points along the trail we had to open a rugged,barbed wire gate. It then occurred to me, they were cattle droppings andthey were everywhere. The Superstition's allow for the grazing of domesticlivestock provided by the Wilderness Act of 1964. (Said it in the map)The trail began to become more difficult to follow. The trail traveledtrough a wash, so it really didn't have continuity. There were no trailmarkers to help and the cairns were sparse. We tried to use the Topo mapsbut we really were not sure of our position. As we continued to hikethrough the wash and brush we realized that we desired to hike on abetter-traveled trail. The elevation change was very minor, but hiking onrocks and sand for several hours makes the bottom of your feet hurt. Wehadhiked for about nine miles when we decided to backtrack to a spring thathada nice campsite. We would set up camp and build a campfire and then hikeout the next morning. As we hiked back to the site, it lost its initialappeal because of all the Cow Shit. It was everywhere. We decided to justhike back to the car and go home for the night. It ended up being an18-mile day hike with a 40-pound pack on our backs. We got back to thecarat about 4:30 PM. Props to Bruce, he had brought a beer for each of us andit was awesome.Demerits:Bruce- lost his reading glasses; the hunters found them and placed them onthe trail marker.John- while leading the hike went ½ mile up the wrong trail until Brucerealized something was wrong.
Participants: Bruce Corey and John HofdahlI picked up Bruce at 6:00 AM and we embarked on what was supposed to be atwo-day loop in the Superstition Mountains. The forecast was sunshine witha high of 68 degrees. We arrived at the Peralta Trailhead at about 7:15AM.We agreed on a twenty-one mile loop that basically circled Coffee FlatMountain. The Dutchman, Coffee Flat and the Red Tanks Trails were thetrails we would travel. The Coffee Flat Trail veered off the well-traveledDutchman Trail.We were basically the first ones at the trailhead and the only humans wesawon the route were two hunters. They were decked out in camouflage huntingJavalina with bows. We spoke to them for a short moment as we all agreedonwhat a beautiful day it was. It felt like it was 75 degrees and there wasnot a cloud in the sky. The mountains were beautiful. We took inspectacular views of Miner's Needle and Buzzard's Roost.We noticed how well the Saguaro's looked. They were very plump whichsurprised us because we haven't had much rain. We also saw some greatChainFruit Cholla's. They were as big as trees.As we traveled down the Coffee Flat Trail we began to notice increasingamounts of horse droppings. I didn't think much of it; I guess I justwatched my step. On two points along the trail we had to open a rugged,barbed wire gate. It then occurred to me, they were cattle droppings andthey were everywhere. The Superstition's allow for the grazing of domesticlivestock provided by the Wilderness Act of 1964. (Said it in the map)The trail began to become more difficult to follow. The trail traveledtrough a wash, so it really didn't have continuity. There were no trailmarkers to help and the cairns were sparse. We tried to use the Topo mapsbut we really were not sure of our position. As we continued to hikethrough the wash and brush we realized that we desired to hike on abetter-traveled trail. The elevation change was very minor, but hiking onrocks and sand for several hours makes the bottom of your feet hurt. Wehadhiked for about nine miles when we decided to backtrack to a spring thathada nice campsite. We would set up camp and build a campfire and then hikeout the next morning. As we hiked back to the site, it lost its initialappeal because of all the Cow Shit. It was everywhere. We decided to justhike back to the car and go home for the night. It ended up being an18-mile day hike with a 40-pound pack on our backs. We got back to thecarat about 4:30 PM. Props to Bruce, he had brought a beer for each of us andit was awesome.Demerits:Bruce- lost his reading glasses; the hunters found them and placed them onthe trail marker.John- while leading the hike went ½ mile up the wrong trail until Brucerealized something was wrong.
Montana & Canada
Olla,Gerry and I both love to tour Montana and Canada.Canada is a great summer destination for Phoenicians. The weather was inthe60/70s and the exchange rate favorable. Canada enjoys just 10% of the USpopulation with more square miles of land mass offering unrepeatable beautyand serenity.We flew into Spokane Washington and set out from there. This is a greatgateway to Glacier NP in lieu of flying into Kalispel Montana. The cost ofairfare is much cheaper, and the four hour drive through Idaho and Montanaison a scenic byway.Cost per person $175 round trip and we were able to get first classupgradesboth ways. Air travel to Kalispel from Phoenix is between $600 and $900each.Year of the Great BearWhen you think of Glacier/Waterton you think of grizzly bears. Withintheseprotected lands roam one of the densest concentrations of "GRIZ" in NorthAmerica.We have seen many Grizzly bears in Alaska at Denali National Park, andwerehopeful that again we would see the bears at a distance. In Alaska theyweremeandering in the tundra eating berries.We got our wish, with two encounters, a little too close for comfort, oneinGlacier and one in Waterton. In Glacier we met Griz, only 20 yards away onthe Iceberg Lake trail. They had closed this trail the week previous due totoo high a concentration of Grizzly and black bears. A Mother with her twocubs had been surprised by a group of hikers and charged the group twice.Thefirst charge was a false one. The second one had the Bear within four feetbefore pepper spray was invoked.We did not have pepper spray but fortunately our encounters wereuneventful.We just carefully kept moving.Gerry thought that the Iceberg Lake, nine mile trail was the most beautifulshe had ever experienced. The Wildflowers were brilliant! Iceberg lake wasaqua blue. We were in awe of the mountains and glaciers.Other highlights of this trip include:--Hiking in unbelievable beauty in six National Parks-- Shopping and dining at the River Front Restaurant in Calgary. Calgary isa wonderful progressive city.--Seeing the splendor of Lake Louise--Visiting the icefield region, including the Columbia Icefield--Hanging out in Banff, feasting our eyes on the Canadian Rockies whileslamming down Molsons--Relaxing in soothing Radium Hot Springs--Enjoying the uncountable aqua green lakes, rivers, and waterfalls--Wildlife viewing of elk (one with the biggest racks I have ever seen),moose, fox, deer, mountain sheep, prairie dogs and of course the Griz.--hanging out in Sandpoint Idaho, visiting the Clear Water Creek store(ClearWater Creek Catalogue sales) that spans across a river, walking along PendOreille Lake--hanging out in Spokane Washington, walking the Riverfront walk to Gonzaga
Exploring Oregon
Exploring Oregon957 mile loop. Portland- Mount Hood, Bend, Ashland, Eugene,Corvallis-Portland-Trip Rating 10.0We left Phoenix eight days ago with first class upgrades in hand. From thatvantage point I gazed down on the harsh and unforgiving Arizona landscape,happy to escape to a mellower more colorful environment that appeals to allthe senses.Although I have made countless trips to Oregon, I always look forward toreturning. I love the culture. Oregon is the running capital of the world.Oregonians are conscientious stewards of their beautiful state.I have been told that I rate on the superlative end of the scale, however,this tour of scenic, GREEN western and central Oregon was nothing short ofsuperlative! The weather was perfect. We also enjoyed some of the highdesert.Gerry has dreamed of Ashland theater all her life. I dreamed of returningto Hayward field at the U of O in Eugene.The American west is a dream to me. We should not, and cannot let terrorismtake away our dreams.Highlights of this trip include:-Hiking along the Metolius and Deschute Rivers-Slamming down Pale Ales at various Oregon Microbreweries-Tasting Oregon Pinot Noir-Hanging out in Sisters and Bend-Touring the Oregon High Desert Museum-Visiting Newberry National Volcanic Monument and Crater Lake National Park-Ashland Theatre-MACBETH and Cupid and Psyche performances-Walking in indescribable beauty in the park in Ashland-Visiting with the Cornelius family-Running on the track at Hayward field and along the Willamette River inEugene (Track City)-Climbing Spencer's Butte outside of Eugene in thick forests and sword fernOregon High Desert MuseumIf you like the Arizona Desert Sonoran Museum in Tucson, you will love theOregon High Desert Museum. It is Smithsonian class, a wonderful place tolearn about the nature and culture of the High Desert. Having lived in theHigh Desert for many years in Reno, I really appreciated the exhibits,animal habitats/interpretations, and the history. Don't miss it if you arein the area!Cornelius EstateWe had an absolutely wonderful visit with our good friends Rick andMichelle Cornelius and their two young sons, Josh and Jacob. Josh is quitea good 400 runner and Jake is outstanding in Babe Ruth baseball. They bothare good looking young men.The Cornelius family has a beautiful historic home on three acres. They areall doing very well. Rick and Michelle and quite involved and proud of theAshland community. We were treated royally and really appreciate their downhome hospitality. Rick makes the best martinis in the western world!The MECCA-Hayward FieldIn Eugene, my first order of business was to return to-Hayward field.Hayward field is even more holy to me than the old Boston Garden and FenwayPark.Hayward field is where Pre ran. Other legends, including Mary Decker andAlberto Salazar still work out on the track. Nowhere, is more important toNike, than Eugene and Hayward Field.The women's hurdle team was working out on that morning. They gracefullyglided over the hurdles, a beautiful sight.As youths, both of our boys won National TAC/AAU events on this field.I stretched and laid out in the infield with my eyes closed. I could hearthe announcer introduce their names and lanes. I could visualize theirfinishes.Exciting times.Track and Field may be losing it's popularity, but not in Oregon. It is myabsolute favorite sport.Hayward field also brought back the memory of golf balls driven by Delta's"Otter" that struck ROTC cadets on the helmet causing Neidemeyer's horseto buck him in National Lampoon's classic "Animal House" movie that wasfilmed at U of O. Unfortunately, the Delta house has now been torn down.This reflection brought tears to my eyes.That was then, Do it now!With that thought in mind and caught up with the spirit of the moment, ElLobo decided to do an all out 400, tight hamstrings and all.It was worth the pain and agony.The last time I ran a 400 was on my fortieth birthday at the UNR track. Inspite of a tremendous hangover I was able to break a minute. I didn'tbother to record my time this time around.I then limped to the OSU book store and purchased a hooded and pouched"Oregon track" sweat shirt. It is a prized possession.The very popular Men and Women behaving badly section.-Who needs a GPS along when Gerry is in the car. She started her driving"suggestions" as soon as we left for the Phoenix airport and continued to"suggest" driving tips for the full 957 miles.Gerry-For wining about being hungry and cold while she was telling me howto drive and then complaining about how cold it was at Crater Lake. Themanly El Lobo wore his sandals in the snow just to get a glimpse of themagnificent lake.El Lobo-For drinking three beers before the MACBETH performance and havingto find the rest room 10 minutes into the performance and then not allowedto return. He was exiled into a room with a television monitor to watch theduration.El Lobo for refusing to apologize to his soul mate on the way to thePortland airport for rude and bad behavior. After all, there werecircumstances warranting such behavior. We were late and there was a hugetraffic backup due to an accident. The helpful motorist advising El Lobothat his rear tire was going flat put him over the top.Home againLifting down into Phoenix, the surrounding landscape reminded me of kittylitter. I love sunny Arizona but it is not Oregon. I will return to theRepublic in August for a backpack with Rick to the Sister's Wilderness andthen in September for a backpack with Sawtooth Steve to the Eagle CapWilderness in Northeast Oregon. In the short term, I guess the canyoncalled the "Big Hole" by Chevy Chase will have to do. In the long term wewill continue to dream of building in Placerville California.
10/14/2000
White Canyon Wilderness
On Saturday Steve Yahner and I attended a hike sponsored by the Sierraclub.This hike was a 11 mile off trail exploration of the eastern rim of theWhiteCanyon Wilderness. At the heart of the Wilderness is White Canyon itself, adeep drainage ringed by Soaring Cliffs.This hike had countless vistas of wild and spectacular slickrock terrain,resembleing the slickrock terrain in Southern Utah close to Moab. Animalsresident in this watery environment include the Sonoran Mud turtle.We had never tried a Sierra Club hike before and thought that this onewouldbe a good one to try.There was a group of 15 that assembled at the trailhead. Ken Mcginty, thetrip's leader asked everyone to identify themselves and their favoritebeer.El lobo hates to participate in this type of activity but was a good sportandresponded cheerfully if not a little sarcastically, with "Fosters" thatsAustralian for beer. Steve replied "rootbeer". How boring. Many of theyounger Sierra club singles responed with a micrbrewery beer. This was suchgreat fun to start out on. At this point we were looking at each other andasking what did we get ourselves in to?I was dubious of this group's ability to handle this rugged terrain, butmosteveryone proved to be strong hikers. There was only one incident where ayoungdamsel got in trouble on a steep climb to a peak and fell and could not getup. She was on very loose, crumbling rock, and in a dangerous situation.ELlobo came to her rescue, and she was very greatful. She told Steve that Ihadsaved her life, and he was very Jealous of El Lobo's heroism. When I toldSteve that she had to grab my leg to get up, he was really upset.The hike was great. We hiked relentlessly up and down hill, ascended highridges, and bagged peak 4023.The views from above were incredable. Never ending panoramas!!!The ascent to the ridges were clogged with sharp brush . We went throughCholla cactus and pulled spines out of our bodies most of the day. Webalanced our way along knife sharp ridges and fought through the spiny,brushy, truculent vegetation.I will bring gloves next time!The group was a fun group, and we really enjoyed everyone, although wewouldprefer not to be hiking with a herd.We saw no one else but our group. Steve was up to his old antics, makingloudnoise on the trail-quite an embarassment- and generally anoyed anyone hecould. He did bond with a broad named "Sudsy"Overall this hike is rated a solid 9.0. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves inthis beautiful area.It is a great alternative to hiking the Superstitions.We do plan on going again, perhaps this weekend. Ken McGinty has a 9 mileexploratory off trail ridgetrek, north of Carefree. Plans are to bag 5,013Kentuck peak then follow a series of ridges to Maverick Butte.MEXICAN WOLF UPDATETo date, 5 of the 11 Mexican wolves reintroduced have been shot. El LoboGrande, conservationists, and all Sierra club members are outraged. ARichardHumphrey of Tucson shot the first wolf in April near Turkey creekcampground.The US fish Wildlife service refused to prosecute him even though it wasclearthe wolf was shot from the side while standing still and was not a threattoHumphry's family as he later claimed. The other 4 wolves were shot fromAugustthrough November.Anyone that believes that they have information that might be helpful inapprehending the perpetrators should call US fish and Wildlife specialagentsat 602-835-8289.
Mt. Pinos
This weekend I stayed in Southern California and drove 2 hours North tomeetmy hiking partner Hannu Haarma.Hannu had an orienteering meet at Mt. Pinos. Orienteering is a little knownsport in this country but very popular in the Scandavian countries of theworld. It was an Olympic sport at one time.Hannu was one of the best in the world and competed on the Fin Nationalteam.The competition involves running overland routes to various coursecheckpoints, utilizing the provided topo map and a compass. This course wasabout 8K.Hannu finished with a good time but badly twisted his ankle early on.Always the warrior, he heavily taped it and we went on a moderatelystrenuoshike up Mt. Pinos and along the Los Padres forrest ridgeline. The Mt. Pinosarea is Southern California's winter destination for cross country skiiing.Mt. Pinos at 8831 is the highest peak in the Los Padres National forrest.This hike involved continuing along ridges to the summitt ridge of GrouseMountain.It afforded great views of the San Quaquin valley, the most fertileagricultural area in the world. We went for about 11 miles start tofinish.I rate this hike a 7.5 It is one of the best in the area.The next day we chose to hike "Pothole" close to Lake Piru. Hannu's anklewas quite swollen and blue as a glacier, but wanting to get a workout afterhis long drive to Southern California. He had flown back from Virgina onFriday night and didn't get home until past midnight. He got up at 3 in themorning to drive South from his home in San Ramon Northern California."Pothole" ended up not being a good choice. The 1994 California Hiking bookis in need of update. We had to hike an additional 3 miles to gain accesstothe trailhead.The road had been closed. Once we finally found the trailhead we climbed1000+ ft on a very feint trail to the top of a ridge. We spooked a herd ofcows that were sleeping in a side canyon and almost got crushed in astampede. I hate bovines!!!!!!Death to Open grazing!!!From here it just got worse. The trail was so badly overgrown we werepummelled bysharp branches and our legs were attacked by stickers. This "trail" hadnotbeen used for years. We were defeated! We would not get to the beautiful?natural depression caused by an earthquake fault , filled with grass andlined with trees.The views of Lake Piru gave us some salvation but overall this 11 milepunishing walk was not my idea of being in Harmony with nature. I thinkthatHannu liked it because it was similar to orienteering!Not recommended -Overall rating a 2It was great to see Hannu-we have other adventures planned this summer. Iheaded back to Marina Del Rey for a nice relaxing 15 mile bike ride on thebeach. Hannu headed for Northern California. He had an early flight out thenext morning.
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